Headlight Bulb
- Thread starter MattK
- Start date
Simplest upgrade, if not already done, is to install 55/60W H4 bulbs in place of the OEM 45/45W.
I just put some LED bulbs in my 1100. This is a plug and play option, the LED bulbs are a bit of a squeeze through the rubber boot, and I used double-sided tape to fix the driver units to the back of the headlight shell. Access was by way of removal of the screen and panel above the headlight. I'm very happy with the output and spread. Make sure to buy LED bulbs that include a small shroud in front of the front emitter, reduces glare to oncoming drivers and maintains a stock cut-off on dipped beam.
55/60W H4 is fine Matt (Honda H4 55/6 .. 34901-MC7-601AH $7.92 need shims), but I bet you'll like the LEDs a lot more, and they are more or less the same to install.
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2004
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- 4,348
- Age
- 70
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- Ledgewood, NJ 07852
- Bike
- 03&04 ST1300
- STOC #
- 5079
I would recommend the LED's as well same install and not much more $.
I used the higher watt h4 bulbs with a blue tinge to them, very effective and not too expensive , top tip when removing the old bulbs is to use a small mirror to see the retaining clip, as you have to use the force without one
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
moddy
the mod
I installed DDM Tuning, has worked for 3 1/2 years. I also installed a bypass switch for power to ballasts until after the bike is started, more for colder weather and lower cranking amps. This technique was utilized because it was demonstrated by a 1300 owner the HID may not come on without a solid power source to the ballast.
The bypass switch has also been helpful to leave off when I am working on the bike with the key on without the engine running. Less draw on the battery.
I bought extra bulbs to have on hand, have never used them yet. Your expense would be 35.00 less. Others have installed HID's on this forum as well. Less draw than stock system, more light.
The bypass switch has also been helpful to leave off when I am working on the bike with the key on without the engine running. Less draw on the battery.
I bought extra bulbs to have on hand, have never used them yet. Your expense would be 35.00 less. Others have installed HID's on this forum as well. Less draw than stock system, more light.
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moddy
the mod
I will also share with you a technique for the cheapest solution that I've done, but takes a special touch. Auto parts store H4 bulbs, cut off the 2 lower tabs. This bulb can be placed with special care because the sheet metal housing of the bulb's mating surface can be seated before the retaining spring is secured.
They do make a 10.00 pair of shims you can place on the automotive bulb, with the two lower tabs cut off, that simulate Honda's OEM bulb replacement. It is on that thread that I learned about this "sweet spot" the bulb can be placed with it's single tab before the spring is placed.
I used this technique to place a bulb a few months before I installed the HID's.
They do make a 10.00 pair of shims you can place on the automotive bulb, with the two lower tabs cut off, that simulate Honda's OEM bulb replacement. It is on that thread that I learned about this "sweet spot" the bulb can be placed with it's single tab before the spring is placed.
I used this technique to place a bulb a few months before I installed the HID's.
I've had mixed results with bulbs getting out of alignment and ended up ordering those adapter rings.
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
N.B. If you cut the two lower tabs off an H4/9003 bulb and use the shim, be sure to flatten any remaining bulge at the root of the tang so bulb casing fits fully flat on the shim (top tang too). Otherwise the bulb will be canted, moving the filament out of its optimal position. A dab of Honda Bond or sumsuch helps keep them together. FWIW
John
John
Waaaay back when I put Cibiē headlights in my cars and 750-4 all the H-4 bulbs I saw had heavy tabs that weren't easily bent. They even had an extruded groove that made them stiffer.
Fast forward a few decades and the Stanley H-4 bulbs I got from Honda had tabs about twice the thickness of a foil gum wrapper. They were easily cut of with diagonal cutters.
But—I can see they could very easily be evenly–folded back enough to provide a slight friction fit in the headlight shell. I think this would avoid the balancing act of getting a single-tabbed bulb properly in place while positioning the bale. I don't know if this would work with all H-4 bulbs. I don't recall any ridge in the bulb holder that would play hob with the two bent tabs.
EDIT: I didn't realize that this thread is about an ST1100 and I was talking about my 1300. Then I realized John O's ride is an 1100 and realized the OP must have an 1100 too. Sooooo forget I said anything.
Fast forward a few decades and the Stanley H-4 bulbs I got from Honda had tabs about twice the thickness of a foil gum wrapper. They were easily cut of with diagonal cutters.
But—I can see they could very easily be evenly–folded back enough to provide a slight friction fit in the headlight shell. I think this would avoid the balancing act of getting a single-tabbed bulb properly in place while positioning the bale. I don't know if this would work with all H-4 bulbs. I don't recall any ridge in the bulb holder that would play hob with the two bent tabs.
EDIT: I didn't realize that this thread is about an ST1100 and I was talking about my 1300. Then I realized John O's ride is an 1100 and realized the OP must have an 1100 too. Sooooo forget I said anything.
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I did the LED lights with the cutoff deflector and used the Honda to H-4 adaptor shims. Going this way was a lot less money than HIDs or even regular halogen high performance lamps.
The LEDs are very bright. Should last longer than factory and match the color of my Cree driving lights. I have a ST 1100.
The LEDs are very bright. Should last longer than factory and match the color of my Cree driving lights. I have a ST 1100.