headlight issues 1300

yuergenb

Biking since 87'
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
74
Location
Athens, Ontario
Bike
1995 ST1100
We have had a 2006 1300 for about a year now. The headlights are acting up. On the right side, I have low beam, but if I go to high beam, it blows the fuse, which I believe is the left fuse block (forward one) in the picture. The left headlight stopped working completely. I changed the bulb but soon as i turn the key on low beam or high beam, it blows the fuse (right fuse block, or rear fuse block) Any ideas where to check. Its obviously a short somewhere but cannot figure it out. Any experience is appreciated.
 

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No offense but judging on the pic and amount of dirt and grime - I’d start by cleaning up a bit under the seat and under the plastic. It’s something I do every year in winter - just my preference Inspect your connections and wires that you can see. Pull the headlight connectors off and check wires and for corrosion on the connector. Pull the switch off and inspect it for function and if good clean it up. You may have rodent damage or a wire that melted into ground or another wire. Otherwise grab a volt meter and let the hunt begin. Best of luck
 
As John pointed out, clean and inspect all connections first.
I would also check the bulbs themselves, and clean the connections and starter switch in the handlebar housing.
 
My two cents.
Give a look at the harness under the T. Do you have a bar riser installed and pulling too much on the wires?
Rodents?
A loose pilot wire used in the past for auxiliary light relay?
I would also suspect a broken insulation and wire cores touching the frame.
Last, a burned relay staying closed.
 
If you have halogen bulbs (not LED's) they have been known to short out when the filament breaks. Remove the 3 conductor plug from the back of both bulbs and see if that clears the short.

I do think however, that with all the dirt, you have a problem elsewhere, as stated above.
 
So you're blowing TWO fuses?
blowing right side fuse when i put on high beams. The left side is intermittent as im testing it. I seem to have it working on low beam. Not going to put on high until i get some more fuses.
 
No offense but judging on the pic and amount of dirt and grime - I’d start by cleaning up a bit under the seat and under the plastic. It’s something I do every year in winter - just my preference Inspect your connections and wires that you can see. Pull the headlight connectors off and check wires and for corrosion on the connector. Pull the switch off and inspect it for function and if good clean it up. You may have rodent damage or a wire that melted into ground or another wire. Otherwise grab a volt meter and let the hunt begin. Best of luck
The picture looks much worse than it is. Because I used a flash. Its no different than any used bike.
 
Don't just replace fuses. As mentioned elsewhere, replace fuse with incandescent bulb. Which will light up when short would normally blow fuse.

Then measure resistance-to-ground of each segment of wiring in both low and high-beam circuits. Start unplugging from end of circuit upwards (starting at bulb). When short disappears, problem is between that junction and previous one. Examine that segment much more closely end-to-end all 360-degrees around wiring. Something's touching ground where it shouldn't.
 
If you have halogen bulbs (not LED's) they have been known to short out when the filament breaks. Remove the 3 conductor plug from the back of both bulbs and see if that clears the short.

I do think however, that with all the dirt, you have a problem elsewhere, as stated above.
I have led lights on both sides but thanks
 
My two cents.
Give a look at the harness under the T. Do you have a bar riser installed and pulling too much on the wires?
Rodents?
A loose pilot wire used in the past for auxiliary light relay?
I would also suspect a broken insulation and wire cores touching the frame.
Last, a burned relay staying closed.
There is a riser, yes, as the bike came when we bought it. I will inspect that. Thanks. I am suspecting same thing and have tried to inspect and follow as much wire as is possible. So far nothing yet.
 
Don't just replace fuses. As mentioned elsewhere, replace fuse with incandescent bulb. Which will light up when short would normally blow fuse.

Then measure resistance-to-ground of each segment of wiring in both low and high-beam circuits. Start unplugging from end of circuit upwards (starting at bulb). When short disappears, problem is between that junction and previous one. Examine that segment much more closely end-to-end all 360-degrees around wiring. Something's touching ground where it shouldn't.
That was my thought also. Just trying to find what the reading should be.
 
LED lights often have a cooling fan If one of them has failed circuit or has something stopping the fan it would certainly cause issues like described. I think some one said to start with a fresh set - halogen or led. If you have a pair of OEM bulbs see if it does the same thing.
 
That was my thought also. Just trying to find what the reading should be.
Reading should be open-loop/no continuity/infinite ohms like measuring resistance of piece of wood. Shown on many meters as "OL" or "1". Meaning power-wire has no connection to ground.

What you'll measure is short-circuit which measures very low resistance such as 0.01 ohms or 0.20 ohms. Meaning some section of that power circuit is connected directly to ground without going through bulb 1st.

Through process of elimination by disconnecting sections of circuit, we can narrow down bad section. When you disconnect it, meter will go from low ohms (short-circuit) to infinite ohms/open-loop/no continuity. Then you know problem is between that junction you just disconnected and previous one.

Trick is to measure resistance without blowing fuse. This can be done by pulling fuse. But still need to trigger relays to connect headlight circuits. Then measure resistance between chassis-ground to power-wire after fuse. Will show short-circuit/low ohms

1. then disconnect bulb, does resistance change to open-loop?

2. then work upstream on power wire and disconnect next junction. does resistance change to open-loop?

3. trace upstream to next junction and unplug. does resistance change to open-loop?

Reason we measure is because we're not Superman and can see electrons moving inside wires. No human can just look at wire and determine its ability to conduct electricity. Luckily, we have instruments that can. :)
 
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Inquiring minds would like to know if problem discovered and resolution. Hoping the best for your issue
 
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