Heated Grips for ST1300

Joined
May 19, 2018
Messages
1,205
Location
Southern California
Bike
2005 ST1300 PA
- Will these heated grips that are stated as working for 2003-2010 ST1300, work on a STP (Police) tacking into account the bigger switch housings on STPs?
- Any experience here with STP or regular STs?
- how are they powered
- how much current? (Dedicated fused line to battery?)

Waiting on sellers response, but wanted to hear from our knowledge base
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EBay link:
 
Ouch! Seems a tad expensive when Oxford Heated grips cost under $100. Go to their website and read the description for each of their three grips. They come in different lengths and while you can cut them down, it is better if you get the correct size the first time around.
 
The eBay seller said they plugNplay to a connector under the cowl....
True? Got a pic of that?

WRT Oxfords...

Which one for the ST1300?
 
There is a connector under the left cawl. You will need the quartet harness though to break this connector out into the correct connections as it is a large multi-pin connector.
 
- Will these heated grips that are stated as working for 2003-2010 ST1300, work on a STP (Police) tacking into account the bigger switch housings on STPs?
- Any experience here with STP or regular STs?
- how are they powered
- how much current? (Dedicated fused line to battery?)

Waiting on sellers response, but wanted to hear from our knowledge base
View attachment 243796

EBay link:

I bought those 2 years ago at the same dealer on Bay. Everything is included and works fine. You will need few hours to install everything. If you want old OEM heated grips in Canadian dollars from a Honda dealer;
 
I heard someplace that OEM heated grips don’t last long, true/false?
Yours lasting for 2 years Interceptor would be evidence of them lasting past early failure
 
Wow. 200k on an ST1300...
Makes my concerns of passing 80k soon a bit premature
Did you have replace the alternator and clutch over this period?
 
Wow. 200k on an ST1300...
Makes my concerns of passing 80k soon a bit premature
Did you have replace the alternator and clutch over this period?
No still running those original parts. I did replace the U-Joint at 172,000 miles and the fuel pump as the thermistor was not working and the gauge would only go down to two bars showing even when the tank was empty.
 
I tried electric grips back a while ago and didn't find them to effective. The problem was with the gloves. The grips transferred heat ok with thin palmed gloves but then the top of hands froze. If I used winter gloves, the heat wouldn't transfer thru the thicker grip those gloves has. This time I'm thinking electric gloves that I have to plug in are the best bet for me... Your results might vary..
 
I have electric gloves run off a Warm n Safe Heat Troller and they get very warm but just the tops of the hands. Fortunately it's just that my hands get bone-chilled cold easily and not that we get any real cold weather here.

If we did heated gloves wouldn't be enough though they're the quickest and easiest heat fix. Besides the mirror wind deflectors (no longer available from Honda and rarer than hens' teeth) you could install hand guards from a V-Strom or similar to keep the wind off your hands. Some people even use snowmobile hand covers similar to the old Hippo hands. I don't go near weather that would require that extreme.
 
I bought those 2 years ago at the same dealer on Bay. Everything is included and works fine. You will need few hours to install everything. If you want old OEM heated grips in Canadian dollars from a Honda dealer;

He sells locally only. Canada I guess. Anyone able to get them for me?
 
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I used Oxford heated grips on mine. They hook directly to the battery. I hooked mine to my fuzeblock. I used the Adventure model and trimmed the ends a bit. Make sure there is no tension on the wires when turning the bars. Also use Superglue gel to hold them on.
 
Also hooks up directly to the battery and like Oxford will turn themselves off if bike is not running.
You can let us know for sure but I believe that auto-off is a fail safe. Hooked directly to the battery, they'll shut down with the battery voltage drops to 11V or some such.

To keep them from running your battery down to whatever shutdown voltage the Apollo's like, you can and probably should use the grips's Off position. It's not big deal if a battery is in decent shape - 11V should be plenty to start the bike.
 
Thank you, ordered them on Amazon for a few bucks cheaper.

Don’t ask me why I decided to buy these when it’s 100*F currently

I just got Koso Apollo. They don't have an external controller like Oxford. Also hooks up directly to the battery and like Oxford will turn themselves off if bike is not running. Look like stock and the switch is just under your finger.
I have Oxford on my other bike, and they work great, you just need to rich to a controller on the bar for turning on/off. Also, the controller wears off in time and looks too aftermarket.

 
Apollo grips came...

But is it correct that the left grip has a smaller diameter than the right side?
If yes, this due to the throttle barrel over the bars?

So whats next, slice the oem grips off, or what?

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I wouldn't slice off the old grips, you nay want to pit them back at some point. Use air, from an air compressor, shoot it between the grip and handlebars. Will inflate, vibrate, and let you slide it right off.
 
I used the same allen wrench that I used to remove the bar end to remove my grips. I slid it between the grip and bars then turned the 90 degree end clockwise around the bars and it broke all the glue free.
 
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