Heated jackets

Should be no problem at all.... if you're concerned about the total electrical accessory load, I'd suggest install a voltmeter to monitor voltage as you ride. If it shows about 12.9 or lower, it means the battery is starting to discharge, i.e., alternator cannot supply the power for the load...... then you can decide what accessory to shut off to bring the voltage back up. Someone did a calculation of what available free wattage there is...... 250?
 
How cold and long do you think you will ride?
40w is good, but not a lot of heat, 65 and 90's are available.
I built mine it was around 80. On the coldest of day, I'm talking sub-zero, it will be on full. But in the average sub freezing temperature, maybe half way. But I spend the better part of an hour at 70mph and wearing full leather.
 
The alternator on my '05 went out at 50K. It was covered under warranty. I had heated gloves and liner and at the time I was playing around with twin Stebels mounted. I think I hit the horn and toasted it. I removed one of the horns before taking it in to have the Alternator replaced. I think it was the 30amp relay for my fuseblock, more than anything else that caused it to fail. I've since gone to a 50amp relay .

On the Forum, there's been a few that have gone out, but I haven't had any of my other bikes die on me.
 
Last edited:
I only wear leather to about 45 degrees . 45 degrees and down textile . It must be water proof to keep the air out. No heated gear. First Gear Kilimanjaro is hot at 35 degrees. Leather is not as warm as you would think.
 
Technotrucker said:
Will the 1300 stand up to a 40W heated jacket running off it???? I don't want to "fry" any part of my PAN.
Click to expand...
Here is my experience. I've installed Warm'n Safe heated gear. I use these all at the same time, because I'm riding two-up: Two heated jacket liners (90watts each), two heated pair of gloves, one pair of heated socks and, rarely, a pair of heated pants. I had to make sure they were wired to the battery, not to a fuse block. Wired to the battery I've had zero issues. Wired through a fuse block caused over-heating issues at the connections on the fuse block.
 
Soontobeone said:
Here is my experience. I've installed Warm'n Safe heated gear. I use these all at the same time, because I'm riding two-up: Two heated jacket liners (90watts each), two heated pair of gloves, one pair of heated socks and, rarely, a pair of heated pants. I had to make sure they were wired to the battery, not to a fuse block. Wired to the battery I've had zero issues. Wired through a fuse block caused over-heating issues at the connections on the fuse block.
Click to expand...

What kind of fuseblock? I had problems like that with a Centech AP2 but switched to a easternbeaver PC8 and have had zero problems with it.
 
Should not matter what fuzeblock, if you had a heavy enough wire feeding it, a heavy enough relay (if you used one) and split the rider and passenger circuits into two separate circuits
 
I read a post here somewhere that detailed the power required to run a stock ST1300 ABS. The poster totaled all of the electrical consumption based on what was listed in the service manual- some items were estimated as their power draw was not listed in the manual- and put it all together on an Excel sheet so the totals are automatically calculated as you add your accessories. After all of the bikes electrical needs were taken care of there was approximately 250 watts (21 amps) of surplus power available from the alternator. You can use this as a guide to how much electrical demand you can safely add to your bike.

See the attached Excel sheet.
 

Attachments

  • Electrical load-budget.xls
    9.5 KB · Views: 25
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom