honda st1300 rear break holder wont come off after removing the rear axe bolt

beyazandbeyaz

Joined
Dec 17, 2020
Messages
10
Age
33
Location
amsterdam
Dear Friends,

I am new in the forum, I own a honda st1300 for a while. after a new rear tire i got within two days a a nail in it. I fixed with a plug in. Now is the time to save tire from inside out. So i decide to remove the rear tire. after removing some bolts manage to take the rear axe off. But unfortunetly I wont able to remove/slide of the rear break holder from his place. It looks like it stuck on the bearings of the rear tire. I tried to pull the tire to the right but still there is no movement to slide off the rear break holder. It is loose, i removed 2 bolts which holds the rear breakholder.

any suggestions,

your sincere,


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Did you remove the pivot bolt?

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Hello, and welcome to our forum community.

There is one more bolt that you have to remove, it is called a 'stopper bolt' and it is located towards the forward end of the brake caliper assembly. See the picture that Joe (@Mellow ) has posted directly above - the bolt with the socket wrench on it.

Here are links to two other discussions that contain information that I think will help you solve your problem:

ST 1300 Rear Caliper Removal and also ST 1300 Rear Wheel Quick Guide

Michael

PS: Be aware that the bolt shown in the picture above is a very safety-critical bolt. This means that when you remove it, you should inspect it for any possible damage or deformation, and when you replace it, you need to be sure it is torqued correctly to 69 N·m. Honda actually recommends that this bolt be replaced with a new bolt every time it is removed, but if you choose to not replace it, it would be wise to put some thread-locking compound on the threads of the bolt before re-installing it.
 
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It is possible that your rear brake caliper is stuck in place due to corrosion or buildup of dirt between the aluminum frame and the caliper carrier.

Perhaps put a block of wood up against the rear part of the caliper carrier (the part that the caliper is attached to, not to the brake caliper itself - in other words, the part that has the big round hole that the axle goes through), then give that block of wood a couple of sharp blows with a hammer. That will likely loosen it.

Before you do that, though, double-check to make sure that the rear wheel can rotate. This is to ensure that your problem is not caused by the rear brake being applied and grabbing hold of the rear brake disc.

Michael
 
Wow, that's a crazy one... it's like the bracket is fused to the bearing.

There's a spacer that should be there between the bracket and the wheel, I can't see it in your video so maybe that's missing? But, I think I see it in your first pics.

Might need a pry bar between the wheel and bracket to pop it loose.


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Not sure if you have any PB Blaster or something similar where you are but worth a shot to spray some of that on the spacer/bracket connection point.
 
Pads aren't stuck, neither is the bracket to the frame, it's the bracket to the wheel or spacer in the wheel.
 
The one pic of the rotor shows a pretty deep groove, with ridges at the inner and outer edge of the rotor. If this is what is actually there then you will need to compress the pads in the caliper before it will come off. This is assuming that the bracket will rotate separately from the wheel with the stopper bolt removed.
 
mlheck said:
The one pic of the rotor shows a pretty deep groove, with ridges at the inner and outer edge of the rotor. If this is what is actually there then you will need to compress the pads in the caliper before it will come off. This is assuming that the bracket will rotate separately from the wheel with the stopper bolt removed.
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Good eye, Michael. That's certainly what it looks like. Spreading the pads enough to clear the ridge on the disc should do the trick.
 
Spread the pads slightly. Looks like they are catching the lip on the worn rotor. Your caliper and pistons could use some good service as well.
 
jfheath said:
You need to take the pads out anyway. it is not possible to lift the caliper off the disc with the pads in place. This may give you a bit of extra movement to ease whatever is stuck.
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I never took the pads out to remove the rear caliper, Lifts right off once the axle and stopper bolt are removed. I agree with the observation that rear disk is worn forming a ridge. Had this issue with my current bike (Super Tenere) but it was pretty obvious I needed to spread the pads out to remove the caliper in that case. Removing the pads will work as well but is not necessary.
 
wjbertrand said:
I never took the pads out to remove the rear caliper, Lifts right off once the axle and stopper bolt are removed.
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Yes - I have seen people say that before, but I have tried and the caliper meets up with the wheel before the pads have cleared the disc rotor. So on mine it isn't possible without scoring the wheel rim. Maybe it is to do with how much friction material is left and whether the pistons have been pushed in a little to provide a little extra clearance.

@beyazandbeyaz - is the axle removed removed completely ?
 
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Remove the pads for clearance and you'll have less chance to damage the finish on the rim.
To me it sounds like the floating guide dowel is stuck holding the two pieces together.
After removing the pads, stopper bolt, and axle, gently try taking a wooden hammer handle and placing it in the middle of the of the assembly, and gently trying to work the caliper free from the caliper bracket.
 
Yes, I found it is fairly easy to get the wheel off leaving the pads on, but much harder to replace the wheel while the pads are still there. Inevitably, I have to remove the pads for the reinstall.
 
As others have suggested, i would try this in order:

1) Use a thin flat-blade screwdriver (or gasket scraper) and wedge between rotor and brake pad and push the pad away from the rotor enough to clear the "raised edge" of the outer edge of the rotor

2) Remove the pads if (1) doesnt work
 
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