the rear axe was out, i mouth everting with together, will try an other day. went to work feels fine, but i do not torked that much with torkwrench. Thanks for help. maybe tomorrow i will go further.
honda st1300 rear break holder wont come off after removing the rear axe bolt
- Thread starter beyazandbeyaz
- Start date
My ride just went fine, but now a just feel the rear break disk are getting why to hot, so may i damage the it or have to use torkwrench to tork desired tork setting.
jfheath
John Heath
I'm a bit concerned that you are riding on a bike in that condition.
I have no experience of this problem. But I have been thinking about it. This is just a suggestion.
The two parts that are stuck together are the collar and the bracket. The collar is normally easily removed once the bracket has been taken off. Those two pieces have got to be separated before you stand any chance of getting the bracket out or the wheel out.
Some amount of force is likely to be necessary, but it is best to try to keep this to a minimum. The problem is making sure that you don't damage anything else while you are doing this. In the video, tapping the wood with the hammer is not effective because the collar can move and the wheel can move. Both of those need to be held firm.
Suggestion:
Here is a diagram I put together this morning so that you know which bits I am talking about.
1) Remove the brake pads. If the wheel, bracket or caliper moves and the caliper is held against the disc by the pads, you will bend the slider pins, or warp the brake disc.
2) Apply some penetrating fluid all the way around between the collar and the bracket (red arrow). PlusGas is a common one in the UK. It is VERY 'wet' and gets everywhere. Make sure it doesn't get into the wheel bearings. Stuff a rag through the axle hole to soak up any that might get down the inside. Keep the fluid away from the wheel hub. Leave it for a while to do its work.
3) Insert the axle so that the (yellow) collar is supported by it. Make sure that the axle does not enter the hole in the brake caliper. You will need to measure this to be sure. Measure the width of the swing arm, and add on the width of the bracket. Measure how deep end of the axle is in the hole from where the nut is normally located. The depth of the hole to the end of the axle needs to be slightly more than that total. The diagram shows the axle in this position.
Note that the collar (yellow) is supported by the axle, the bracket is not.
4) Support the rear wheel. The wheel is off the ground - use chocks, or drive a piece of wood under the tread to stop the wheel from moving. This takes the strain off the axle which is supporting the entire weight of the wheel, just on its right hand end.
Now, the only component that can move is the caliper bracket. The wheel should stay firm. The distance collar should to stay firm.
There are now a few ways that you can try to shift the bracket:
One way is to knock it free. You may need to remove the caliper bracket stopper bolt - although the hole is oval, so it may not be necessary. The bracket only need to move a fraction for it to break free. You might be able to tell if there is space for it to move by looking through the wheel from the right hand side. If the bolt is in the centre of the oval, then leave the bolt in. It will prevent the bracket from moving too far and putting strain on the brake hoses.
The second way would be to arrange a jack (a bottle jack perhaps) underneath the caliper bracket (blue arrow). It would probably need something between the jack and the bracket itself. If you can arrange this, then wind up the jack until the bracket is supported and then wind it up a fraction more - just so that the weight of the rear end of the bike is being taken on the bracket. Not much - you are not trying to lift the wheel - just taking the weight. Leave it for a while, let the weight do its work. Remember that when the bracket breaks free, the bracket will stay where it is and everything around it will drop a little bit. For this, the stopper bolt can certainly remain in place.
A third (that I have just thought of) is to use the small bevel that is on the collar to try to drive a wedge between the collar and the bracket. I'm not sure if the bevel is at a suitable angle for this, but it may work.
These are only suggestions. Think about it before you do it. As I said, I have never come across this problem before.
I hope it helps.
I have no experience of this problem. But I have been thinking about it. This is just a suggestion.
The two parts that are stuck together are the collar and the bracket. The collar is normally easily removed once the bracket has been taken off. Those two pieces have got to be separated before you stand any chance of getting the bracket out or the wheel out.
Some amount of force is likely to be necessary, but it is best to try to keep this to a minimum. The problem is making sure that you don't damage anything else while you are doing this. In the video, tapping the wood with the hammer is not effective because the collar can move and the wheel can move. Both of those need to be held firm.
Suggestion:Here is a diagram I put together this morning so that you know which bits I am talking about.
1) Remove the brake pads. If the wheel, bracket or caliper moves and the caliper is held against the disc by the pads, you will bend the slider pins, or warp the brake disc.
2) Apply some penetrating fluid all the way around between the collar and the bracket (red arrow). PlusGas is a common one in the UK. It is VERY 'wet' and gets everywhere. Make sure it doesn't get into the wheel bearings. Stuff a rag through the axle hole to soak up any that might get down the inside. Keep the fluid away from the wheel hub. Leave it for a while to do its work.
3) Insert the axle so that the (yellow) collar is supported by it. Make sure that the axle does not enter the hole in the brake caliper. You will need to measure this to be sure. Measure the width of the swing arm, and add on the width of the bracket. Measure how deep end of the axle is in the hole from where the nut is normally located. The depth of the hole to the end of the axle needs to be slightly more than that total. The diagram shows the axle in this position.
Note that the collar (yellow) is supported by the axle, the bracket is not.
4) Support the rear wheel. The wheel is off the ground - use chocks, or drive a piece of wood under the tread to stop the wheel from moving. This takes the strain off the axle which is supporting the entire weight of the wheel, just on its right hand end.
Now, the only component that can move is the caliper bracket. The wheel should stay firm. The distance collar should to stay firm.
There are now a few ways that you can try to shift the bracket:
One way is to knock it free. You may need to remove the caliper bracket stopper bolt - although the hole is oval, so it may not be necessary. The bracket only need to move a fraction for it to break free. You might be able to tell if there is space for it to move by looking through the wheel from the right hand side. If the bolt is in the centre of the oval, then leave the bolt in. It will prevent the bracket from moving too far and putting strain on the brake hoses.
The second way would be to arrange a jack (a bottle jack perhaps) underneath the caliper bracket (blue arrow). It would probably need something between the jack and the bracket itself. If you can arrange this, then wind up the jack until the bracket is supported and then wind it up a fraction more - just so that the weight of the rear end of the bike is being taken on the bracket. Not much - you are not trying to lift the wheel - just taking the weight. Leave it for a while, let the weight do its work. Remember that when the bracket breaks free, the bracket will stay where it is and everything around it will drop a little bit. For this, the stopper bolt can certainly remain in place.
A third (that I have just thought of) is to use the small bevel that is on the collar to try to drive a wedge between the collar and the bracket. I'm not sure if the bevel is at a suitable angle for this, but it may work.
These are only suggestions. Think about it before you do it. As I said, I have never come across this problem before.
I hope it helps.
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If the rear brakes are dragging significantly and getting very hot, then yes, you can damage the brake disc if you continue riding it that way. There are several possible scenarios that could cause the rear brakes to stick.
Regardless, you need to get it apart before you can do more diagnosis.
Regardless, you need to get it apart before you can do more diagnosis.
If it's too hot, I would NOT ride the bike until the rear brake is fixed.
If it is not fixed, there can be more problems.
And more important, if you keep riding and not fix it, you could get hurt if something fails.
Read John's post (jfheath) post #23
Just a horrible thought here. Suppose a sloppy wheel reinstallation permitted corrosion to seize the collar to the hub and spinweld it to the caliper.
This entire assembly needs to come off...drive unit, wheel and brake assembly for a thorough inspection......and cleaning/lube at least.
Brake lines would have to come off the caliper, axle out, antilock sensor off, unbolt the drive unit and shock from the swing arm and remove with the whole rolling unit?
This entire assembly needs to come off...drive unit, wheel and brake assembly for a thorough inspection......and cleaning/lube at least.
Brake lines would have to come off the caliper, axle out, antilock sensor off, unbolt the drive unit and shock from the swing arm and remove with the whole rolling unit?
Just throwing this out there, but those brake pads look very tight on the rotor, and with the dragging symptom he now states, could it be the SMC is causing the rear caliper to retain pressure? To me it looks like the pads are keeping this wheel from being removed. If you can't get the pads backed off with a screwdriver and prying them back off the rotor, you may have to release the pressure by loosening the banjo fitting on the top. Thoughts?
jfheath
John Heath
The wheel is moving freely in the video.
It is a thought. But the collar can't be stuck at the hub AND at the caliper. If the collar is stuck at the hub (which it normally doesn't make contact with), then the caliper bracket would release. My diagram incorrectly showed the collar touching the hub sides, but in fact it spins in a seal positioned between the collar and the hub. It clamps up against the inner race of the left hand bearing. I've modified the diagram in #23 to represent this.
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Smc probably frozen, not allowing pads to move away from rotor.
Place clear tubing on the rear bleeder and crack it open to release pressure, then pads may move away from rotor.
Rear rotor looks like toast, deep groove probably catching pads.
Remove the damn pads, open both rear bleeders to release pressure, inspect Everything...flange bearings, wheel bearings, guide dowels, distance axle collar etc.
Measure thickness of rotor.
Inspect safety function test on the SMC..and DO NOT continue to ride it until you sort it out, heat from disc will also cause rear line to burst, and spill fluid all over rear wheel!
Place clear tubing on the rear bleeder and crack it open to release pressure, then pads may move away from rotor.
Rear rotor looks like toast, deep groove probably catching pads.
Remove the damn pads, open both rear bleeders to release pressure, inspect Everything...flange bearings, wheel bearings, guide dowels, distance axle collar etc.
Measure thickness of rotor.
Inspect safety function test on the SMC..and DO NOT continue to ride it until you sort it out, heat from disc will also cause rear line to burst, and spill fluid all over rear wheel!
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wjbertrand
Ventura Highway
It won't come straight up, you have to rotate the whole caliper/bracket assembly CCW a little to work it out of there.
Yeah the break pads was the issue, get the wheel out. Thanks 
Also easier for R&R, is to remove the 4 screws holding the rear fender and removing that first. Glad that you got it apart.Yeah the break pads was the issue, get the wheel out. Thanks
Now you just have to figure out is the rotor thickness is still within specs or not, and do a whole lot of cleaning, inspecting the spring clips and pistons, clean the splines and replace the Moly Paste after inspecting the splines, replace both the rear O-rings (inside and outside the hub) check the axle distance collar to make sure its seated all the way in correctly after all the wrestling with the rear wheel removal, and once you get it all back together, you need to inspect the SMC and do the safety function test to see if its frozen or rusted in place (which would have caused your brake pad issues in the first place).
Search the forum, read the articles, and ask lots of questions.
Good job getting the wheel off.
Search the forum, read the articles, and ask lots of questions.
Good job getting the wheel off.
If you look carefully at the picture you'll notice the small silver pad retaining clip (front) is laying on the ground, and it appears bent from all the wrestling getting the wheel off 
I would also carefully inspect the rear brake caliper mounting bracket and make sure the ledge where that clip sits is not damaged or worn away which will cause brake issues.
I would also carefully inspect the rear brake caliper mounting bracket and make sure the ledge where that clip sits is not damaged or worn away which will cause brake issues.
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
Good job, @beyazandbeyaz !
Way to hang in there! (An American saying.)
Listen to @Igofar -- not much gets by him, just as long as he can stand up in the bathroom without falling down.
(Sorry, Larry -- could not resist.)
Way to hang in there! (An American saying.)
Listen to @Igofar -- not much gets by him, just as long as he can stand up in the bathroom without falling down.
(Sorry, Larry -- could not resist.)
Good job, @beyazandbeyaz !
Way to hang in there! (An American saying.)
Listen to @Igofar -- not much gets by him, just as long as he can stand up in the bathroom without falling down.
(Sorry, Larry -- could not resist.)
Is this the thing what igofar refering to, I found one, is there a scond one. I am going to mouth tomorrow everting together. Need a guide for that one..
I replace a new tire on the rim. Getting the tire out was a big stuggel, put it on the rim was not possibel so ended up on a motorcyle garaga anyway to put new tires on the back wheel.
I replace a new tire on the rim. Getting the tire out was a big stuggel, put it on the rim was not possibel so ended up on a motorcyle garaga anyway to put new tires on the back wheel.
Thanks for the picture, the clip looks ok in this picture, however, you need to check the bracket that it sits in for damage.
These two pictures show DAMAGE to the mounting bracket. If you see flutes inside the hole (bad), and if the clip does not snap into place firmly, with NO play, you may need a new bracket.
If you could take a couple pictures of the bracket, and the position where this clip sits, perhaps we could tell you if there is damage or not.
We're here to help
These two pictures show DAMAGE to the mounting bracket. If you see flutes inside the hole (bad), and if the clip does not snap into place firmly, with NO play, you may need a new bracket.
If you could take a couple pictures of the bracket, and the position where this clip sits, perhaps we could tell you if there is damage or not.
We're here to help
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
I see the fluting worn into the top bracket; that pic is also posted in other brake threads.
I've not seen the second photo before -- what causes the wear on the actual bracket, to create that angle where the bracket begins to leave the clip and shows the gap there on the right hand side?
Thanks for the edumucation.
Hey, Friends, i tried to put things together, motorcyle breaks, but some technition has to look to it.
The break disk are not properly installed. tomorrow will buy a extra tool to finish the job.
The break disk are not properly installed. tomorrow will buy a extra tool to finish the job.