honda st1300 rear break holder wont come off after removing the rear axe bolt

Sadlsor said:
...what causes the wear on the actual bracket, to create that angle where the bracket begins to leave the clip and shows the gap there on the right hand side?
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Aftermath of the fluting... carrier plate, and by this the caliper not parallel with rotor, causing side-load on the pads...
 
Language barrier. "Brake disc not installed properly"?

Yes, putting the rear brake pads back in place can be frustrating. The front tabs have to fit correctly in that rectangular metal clip mentioned before, and the top edges have fit up between the fingers of the top spring metal clip. Once everything is aligned correctly the rear end of the pads can rotate up and the retaining pin should go in easily.

Since this adventure started with a recent disassembly to install a new tire, please be sure to inspect all the components as you re-assemble this time. Rear caliper pistons are clean and moving smoothly? Caliper slider pins are moving smoothly? Also would be wise to research "Secondary Master cylinder" (or "SMC") to verify that yours is working correctly. There are many posts here discussing the topic.
 
You can see the tip of the hanger pin is caught up on the caliper body, and not inserted far enough into the caliper to allow the threads to start.
You need to wiggle the pads a bit to finish pushing the hanger pin in all the way.
And as recommended, you MUST inspect the secondary master cylinder before attempting to ride your bike again.
 
I ride with this condition about 16km on a high way, thank god that the rear breaked well and ended up motorcylegarage , which is the one of the best in the Netherlands, charge mee a bargain and changed the rear breakpads also, for a price of 115 euro and checked the whole end.
 
Please let us know what they found, in addition to your photos - thanks for those!
Is this the same shop Noraly goes to?
 
Also, be sure the new tire is fitted correctly. I can't tell from the picture, but there is a ROTATION arrow showing the direction. I can see "ROTA" on the very right side of the photo, but it's cut off, so wonder of it's spinning the wrong way?
 
Back tre turns the right way, he sad, i saw some minor thinks like missing plastic elements and weared rear break calliper. To put he plastic in it right place he take the whole tire out and cleand the bearings of the rear tire also.
 
CYYJ said:
Hello, and welcome to our forum community.

There is one more bolt that you have to remove, it is called a 'stopper bolt' and it is located towards the forward end of the brake caliper assembly. See the picture that Joe (@Mellow ) has posted directly above - the bolt with the socket wrench on it.

Here are links to two other discussions that contain information that I think will help you solve your problem:

ST 1300 Rear Caliper Removal and also ST 1300 Rear Wheel Quick Guide

Michael

PS: Be aware that the bolt shown in the picture above is a very safety-critical bolt. This means that when you remove it, you should inspect it for any possible damage or deformation, and when you replace it, you need to be sure it is torqued correctly to 69 N·m. Honda actually recommends that this bolt be replaced with a new bolt every time it is removed, but if you choose to not replace it, it would be wise to put some thread-locking compound on the threads of the bolt before re-installing it.
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Hi Michael
Could you upload the first link (ST 1300 Rear Caliper Removal) again as the link does not seem work from my end although the second link work fine

I appreciate for the support

Regard

Ali
 
I’m about to do this for my rear wheel tire change (remove rear wheel etc). Is there any particular lube that’s required on the axle when reinstalling ? Gear oil ?
 
CruisingDog said:
I’m about to do this for my rear wheel tire change (remove rear wheel etc). Is there any particular lube that’s required on the axle when reinstalling ? Gear oil ?
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Waterproof grease for the axle.
You'll need molybdenum paste for the final drive splines as well.
 
Igofar has a picture of the worn out caliper holder, I just replaced mine for the same reason and looked exactly like that. Had difficulty locating a replacement. But they are out there
 
CruisingDog said:
I just bought some Honda M77 moly paste. I assume this is the right stuff and replaces Honda 60 Moly paste paste ?
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No. You need the Loctite or Rocol Dry Moly Paste or equivalent. link

Plenty of discussion on this. M77 IS a substitute for the Honda 60 where it was used on the back of brake pads on some Honda cars. That statement has incorrectly been applied to its use on the rear splines.
 
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jfheath said:
No. You need the Loctite or Rocol Dry Moly Paste or equivalent. link

Plenty of discussion on this. M77 IS a substitute for the Honda 60 where it was used on the back of brake pads on some Honda cars. That statement has incorrectly been applied to its use on the rear splines
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Hmmm. I’m confused. Post #20…. M77 Moly Assembly paste is a direct replacement for M60. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/m77-replaces-moly-60-apparently-so.163897/page-2

2003-2006 ST1300 Service manual says Paste.
 

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CruisingDog said:
Hmmm. I’m confused. Post #20…. M77 Moly Assembly paste is a direct replacement for M60. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/m77-replaces-moly-60-apparently-so.163897/page-2

2003-2006 ST1300 Service manual says Paste.
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This has come up a few times, I asked the dealer and they were/are mixing a little moly"grease" into the paste so it stayed liquid longer. They also said the problems they saw are with people not riding it, the paste gets hard and becomes useless. This is the equivalent replacement:

1724133702356.png
 
Willsmotorcycle said:
This has come up a few times, I asked the dealer and they were/are mixing a little moly"grease" into the paste so it stayed liquid longer. They also said the problems they saw are with people not riding it, the paste gets hard and becomes useless. This is the equivalent replacement:

1724133702356.png
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Damn, I don’t want a whole tub of this stuff that can do 500 wheel changes !!
 
CruisingDog said:
Damn, I don’t want a whole tub of this stuff that can do 500 wheel changes !!
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lol yea, that's a lifetime supply, it does come with a convenient applicator brush. Photo below is what I did based on the dealer conversation, before I bought the locktite. I'm not the science guy, but the Honda paste meets the threshold of molybendium IIRC. In the end, just put it in and ride, run the tire bald and do it again.
This is probably a lifetime supply too.*
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*edit to add observation
 
Willsmotorcycle said:
lol yea, that's a lifetime supply, it does come with a convenient applicator brush. Photo below is what I did based on the dealer conversation, before I bought the locktite. I'm not the science guy, but the Honda paste meets the threshold of molybendium IIRC. In the end, just put it in and ride, run the tire bald and do it again.
This is probably a lifetime supply too.*
IMG_8272.jpeg

*edit to add observation
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I’ve ordered the loctite LB 8012. I can send the M77 back to amazon for a refund so no foul. I’m not going to take the risk of M77 after reading Igosofar’s posts. Not worth the risk on the splines IMO. All a learning experience for me!! Thanks for the feedback. I guess once I have it it’ll be useful for any application I need in the future no matter which vehicle!
 
Never MIX grease(s) and or Paste together, the guy at the dealership who suggested that obviously knows very little about grease/paste/applications etc.
Often if you MIX different grease, they will liquify and separate, and leave the area they were supposed to be protecting.
 
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