How difficult to DIY valve check and adjustment?

[Slk]

Merry Christmas!

I'd like to take the time of Christmas vacation to do the valve check and adjustment to my daily commuter ST1300.

I've done some research and I'm not exactly sure about how difficult to DIY the whole process. A little background, I'm a computer tech guy current running my business of Oracle consulting as well as system development. I had taken car engine apart and reassembled it. And I'm comfortable to do all maintenance except for tire change on cars.

With that said, would you think I'm capable of DIYing the valve thing? How much time would it take and what kind of tools do I need? I've never done any valve check on bikes by myself. I see some threads talk about shim replacement. At what circumstances do I need to replace the shim? Wouldn't an adjustment of the valve enough?

 

[Bikeric]

Check out the Articles section at the top of the page (ST1300 Articles on the dropdown bar). There is a video article on how to check the valve clearances on your 1300 on Page 3. Also a worksheet on Page 4. Hope they are useful!

 

[Bmacleod]

With a shop manual in hand and the internet for backup, it is a simple job to check valve clearances. Adjusting requires more time, knowledge and at least a little experience. It is hard to say "you can do it" or "you better get someone that knows what they are doing", but, if you have reassembled an engine, I would think you can do it. The valves are adjusted using shims that must be replaced with a proper shim to bring a clearance into spec. This requires removing the cams. This can be a tedious and finicky job, as the cams require proper timing upon reassembly. I would say at least check them and go from there. It would be reassuring if you have someone handy that has done a valve adjustment, if you need to go further to adjust them.
You will need basic tools and feeler gauges. Although not a necessity, I would not attempt it without a micrometer. the shims are usually laser etched with the thickness, but they can be hard to read sometimes and I always verify with a micrometer. You will also need to fab up a cheap tool to relieve the spring tension on the cam chain tensioner (the right one is a bit tricky to get at).
Merry XMAS

 

[SMSW]

Of course you can do it. If you assembled a car engine, you had to adjust the valves. Regardless, get a service manual and read the procedure through a few times. You will need to do this to become familiar with the process. It doesn't hurt to pull a Clymer's manual for any other motorcycle and read it for hints. Checking the clearance is easy. I'd go through it on one side two or three times. By playing with the feeler gauges of different thicknesses, you will quickly develop a feel for what is right. The gauge should slip between the cam and bucket with little drag or pressure. You can begin to depress the valve by pushing in too thick a gauge but this is not what you want. If checking yields the valves within spec, you may stop there (fill out the worksheet available in Articles forum). Some guys like the clearances to be at the midpoint of the range (me included), but if the numbers are in spec. you are finished.

Best to read some of the threads about oil leaks from catching the rubber sheet under the valve covers or not applying the sealant in the half moon depressions.

I figure time this way - one hour to remove the fairing and get tools together, two hours to do the valve check, and two hours to put the fairing back on (I always clean and wax the fairing when it comes off). After planning the time this way, it usually (for me) comes out a bit longer.

Changing the shims is another story. Again, yes you can do it, but read as much as you can up front, then go ahead slowly and carefully. Were I to do it I would probably buy a shim kit (they will also fit my V Strom) and figure if a dealer did the job it would cost a few C notes anyway, so I am still saving money and doing the job right. If you have everything on hand, it lessens the stress. Cautions: plug all holes in the cyl head w/ rags so you don't drop anything into the engine; have a methodical way of organizing fasteners you remove; get all the tools and lubes you will need ahead of time. Time to shim? I'd figure a day and a half and budget 2 days. I don't move as fast as I used to and know that after a few hours of working on the bike I will want to take a break and rest (maybe even a nap!). Toss in that while my garage is heated, it is still cooler than our living space and it is not all that comfortable working out there.

My time suggestions are generous. I'd bet that a mechanic could check and adjust a few valves in half a day were he familiar with the procedure.

 

[Al st1100]

IMO if you don't have the tools to do the job your not experienced. Why check them if you can't reset them. It is a technical job that needs some if not a lot of experience. A mistake could be costly. Watch some of the videos on utube and see if its in your comfort range. And just to note you have to be careful with the shims, measurements in mm and inches can get confusing and mess things up.

 

[ibike2havefun]

@okmurdog has an excellent set of photos showing each step in sequence. Maybe he will repost them here somewhere if enough people ask for them.

I did my first check under adult supervision, thanks to another board member. It required a shim change so I got help with that as well. Since then I made the checks on my own. Not a difficult process.

 

[Slk]

Thank you gentlemen for such detailed and fruitful information. Looks like I couldn't finish the job in a matter of two or three days. Thinking about take it slowly and do it little by little. But as a last source, if I have to take it to the mechanic, how much would it cost to check and adjust the valves or replace the shims?

 

[caldercay]

Why do you think it needs to be done?

 

[Slk]

Why do you think it needs to be done?

Because I bought this bike used with 118k miles, and the previous owner doesn't know any thing about the history of this bike. Now this bike has about 123k miles and when the engine is idling, I hear some knocking sound. I ride about 48 miles each way on daily commute on crazy LA freeways....so I'd better spend the time/money to make sure everything of this bike is working fine.

 

[Bmacleod]

Why check them if you can't reset them.

... to see if there is a chance that they are all within spec and no further action is required.

 

[SMSW]

I seem to recall someone posting around $800 for valve check and shim replacement. This price probably only includes changing a few, meaning only said two to four buckets and shims need to be removed. At around $100/hour shop time adds up quickly.

Your actual time working on the bike will not be the totals John or I suggested. For the first time you will be reading and rereading a lot. There is another thread about manufacturing the BMW RR bike. The motor is assembled in 2 hours from scratch, and then the whole bike is put together in another 2 hours. Sure its an assembly line w/ specialized tools but these guys have done it thousands of times and each man only does a few operations. My point is the second bank of cams or cylinder side will go faster than the first.

You could pull the covers and do the inspection yourself and measure the clearances - that's easy. Then if you feel overwhelmed, trailer the bike to your dealer w/ fairing off and valve covers loosely installed. The fairing disassembly alone will save you a couple of hundred bucks (maybe less). Get a quote from the dealer or shop with a hypothetical 3 exhaust valves need new shims and go from there.

 

[Obo]

Thank you gentlemen for such detailed and fruitful information. Looks like I couldn't finish the job in a matter of two or three days. Thinking about take it slowly and do it little by little. But as a last source, if I have to take it to the mechanic, how much would it cost to check and adjust the valves or replace the shims?

Like SMSW said if you have to pay someone you have to pay someone and having the fairing off if you have to take it somewhere (and putting it back on yourself after) will save you a few $$ just like taking your rims off the bike to have tires done at a shop.

 

[Gus1300]

Checking them isn't difficult; I did it the first (and so far, only) time by myself using the information in the service manual and here. Mine were within tolerance (currently 108k miles) but I plan to do another check again this winter when I'm into the bike for some other things. What can it hurt to check and then decide whether or not you want to proceed yourself, or take the bike at that point to a shop, saving the disassembly, and reassembly, charges? Don't be afraid to dig in, it sounds like you have the chops, and ppl here can definitely help you if you get stuck at a spot!

 

[ReSTored]

At 123k miles you probably have a few to be adjusted. With everything open I'd put all the valves in the mid range, even the ones that were still within tolerance. In addition to recording all the replacement shim sizes I'd also pull all the other buckets out and record their existing shim size as well so you know the replacement one needed sometime down the road if you need to check / adjust them again.

 

[Slk]

Here is a tool that I created and use for documenting and working out the new shims required. It will work with metric or imperial measurements.

Valve Shim Calculator (Excel) Metric and Imperial | Valve Chk/Adj

This is my own shim calculator for the 1300, written for Excel . The spreadsheet works out what you have, what you need, and what you should buy. It gives you the opportunity to play with the tolerances, and whether to err on the slack side or the tight side. I know there are plenty of these...

www.st-owners.com

You cannot 'adjust' the clearances in the normal sense of the word. There is a shim fitted between the top of the valve and the cam follower. If the gap is too tight, you need a smaller shim. The clearances normally get tighter with time. Shims do not wear - you can reuse shims that you take out on a different valve if it is the size that you need.

Here is a tool that I created and use for documenting and working out the new shims required. It will work with metric or imperial measurements.

Valve Shim Calculator (Excel) Metric and Imperial | Valve Chk/Adj

This is my own shim calculator for the 1300, written for Excel . The spreadsheet works out what you have, what you need, and what you should buy. It gives you the opportunity to play with the tolerances, and whether to err on the slack side or the tight side. I know there are plenty of these...

www.st-owners.com

[/QUOTE]


Great thanks John. The tool you provided is extremely helpful. Since it's rainy day in souther California, I can't ride the bike any way. I'm going to take the time and do the job by myself slowly.

I'd think a good service manual is must for this kind of job. What's the one you guys use and where can I buy it?

 

[Duporth]

While the thread is alive, I would like to ask:

My 'Owners Manual' says the valves should be checked each 24,000 km / 16,000 miles. The valves on my ST1300 have not be checked since new. There seems to be range of views in the forum about the necessity to check the valves. My question is, do I go with the manufacturer's recommendation and do the check on my ST, now at 30,000 kilometres?

Thanks, D

 

[Kevcules]

While the thread is alive, I would like to ask:

My 'Owners Manual' says the valves should be checked each 24,000 km / 16,000 miles. The valves on my ST1300 have not be checked since new. There seems to be range of views in the forum about the necessity to check the valves. My question is, do I go with the manufacturer's recommendation and do the check on my ST, now at 30,000 kilometres?

Thanks, D

If they haven't been checked since new, then yes, at least check them and know where you're at. You most likely won't have to adjust any , but sometimes the initial engine break in period leaves a few valves out of spec. Some go many, many miles and don't check them and get away with it. I prefer to check and maintain my expensive hobby. My 08 1300 has 45,000ish km's and I have two intake valves at the min spec. I check them every two years because I put less than 5000 km's per year.

 

[ST Gui]

... to see if there is a chance that they are all within spec and no further action is required.

+1 Even if you can't do 'adjust' them yourself as above not only can further action be assessed- if needed it can also then be done to confirm the shop indeed did to what was required and properly.

if you have to pay someone you have to pay someone and having the fairing off if you have to take it somewhere (and putting it back on yourself after) will save you a few $$ just like taking your rims off the bike to have tires done at a shop.

I believe that's a shop by shop experience. It's only one data point but I know one shop that charges flat rate minimum so pulling the Tup off won't make a bit difference. But one + is that removing it yourself may insure it's not scratched up or damage and gets reinstalled properly.

My question is, do I go with the manufacturer's recommendation and do the check on my ST, now at 30,000 kilometres?

You can't go wrong doing so. OTOH if you've got no symptoms of out of spec valves you could just let it ride not that you should. Many members have gone far beyond that interval before checking only so see the valves were well in spec. So it depends on your comfort level. With the time (especially downtime) and manual and help from this forum I'd say sooner than later to get a handle on it. Me I'll wait cuz that's how I roll.

 

[Duporth]

Thank you very much for your valuable advice STG and Kev. The brilliant ST has no obvious symptoms, sounds or other. It is a fabulous bike and does everything 'perfectly'. To continue looking after it I will go ahead and do the valves check.

I haven't reviewed the check process but I will study it closely and give it a go. I will have the fairings off to do the brake and clutch fluids and a few other minor things (day driving lights, turn signal beeper, spark plugs...). I won't rush and can afford to have the ST off the road for a few weeks, as it is very hot, dry, and black ! here.

Thanks, D

 

[Slk]

if you've got no symptoms of out of spec valves

What are the symptoms of out of spec valves? Do you hear it or feel it while riding? I hear some sort of clicking/knocking sound while idling, which brought me to the idea of checking the valves.