How to separate exhaust pipes.

Bruno

Joined
Dec 17, 2015
Messages
32
Location
Hamilton Ontario Canada
Bike
1990 ST1100
I am having a difficult time trying to separate the right engine side exhaust pipe from the collection box under the bike. It won't budge. Any advice as to how to separate them? Thanks
 
Spray the 2 clamping bolts liberally with Liquid Wrench or similar and let soak. Then spray again. Once loose the only thing hanging onto the pipe is the sealing gasket, should be able to twist free.
 
I'll second on the twisting motion. Once you break the gaskets grip on the metal, it will slip right out.
 
Bruno, make sure you've got new gaskets at the ready. Twist up and down to loosen and gently pull out. It could take a while and I find expletives help ....... enormously.
Upt'North.
 
I twisted one bolt's' head head off and broke the second on one of my clamps. Now I spray them with wd 40 at oil change time, every time. Made a big difference when I pulled the mufflers this winter (but then, the clamps are pretty new). I was taken aback by the muffler gasket price - shop around....
 
SMSW said:
I spray them with wd 40 at oil change time, every time.
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I assemble all with a good smear of copper paste, first clean (wire brush) and then apply copper spray on the exposed threads of the clamp bolts every time the rear wheel comes out; no problem since.
 
ST1100Y said:
I assemble all with a good smear of copper paste, first clean (wire brush) and then apply copper spray on the exposed threads of the clamp bolts every time the rear wheel comes out; no problem since.
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What is 'copper spray'? I used Permatex anti seize (the gray one) on the bolts when they are loosened, but if I'm not taking the mufflers off then they just get a spray of wd 40 at oil change time.

I assume copper paste is either Permatex high temp anti seize (w/ copper and is copper colored) or another equivalent brand.
 
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ST1100Y said:
LOL! :lol:
Basically the same as paste, but in thinner viscosity, seeping into nooks and crannies
https://eshop.wuerth.at/Kupferspray-CU-800-PAST-CU-800-SPR-300ML/0893800.sku/de/DE/EUR/
(also for applying a nice thin layer on the backside of brake-pads to avoid squeak)
Prefer it for its heat- and water resistance, whilst on an exhaust WD-40 only makes a hiss ... :wink:
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Excellent advice, as usual ST1100Y;). Those using WD40 for rusted applications......not advisable as this product is just intended o be used for water displacement, hence the name WD. Otherwise it eventually WILL eat away at the metal. An excellent choice for these type of situations is Kroil(comes in a can with nipple on end). Has been around for many a decade now and can be gotten at many locations(Tru-Valu, Wal-Mat, etc.).
 
When I spoke to him last night, he’s still trying to get it apart. The weather up here has impeded progress as the garage he’s working in is not heated, preventing him from working on the bike.
 
kiltman said:
When I spoke to him last night, he's still trying to get it apart.
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Likely the exhaust corroded through, to the steel mesh inside the graphite seal bushings...
For the '94 project/refurb, I cannibalized a small, flat screwdriver, grounded it down to the shape of a small chisel to work that graphite bushing out bit by bit (and gently pry the tabs of the female pipe open a little) till I was able to rock and wiggle the stub of the male part out there.
Penetration oils and a heat-gun might aid the process, still a messy job one should have the bike placed on a Work-Lift/platform...



... transmitted from a CAT S60 thing ...
 
Well it came off finally. Heating the outside pipe up with a torch did it. It was still an SOB to get off! Plenty of cursing. That thing must have been together the entire 28 years the bike has been on the road.
 
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