I have a question about a Craftsman floor lift?

Not really "safe", but "safer" if you made up a wooden cradle-type thing to go between the tractor lift and the ST. There is a thread on here somewhere with pictures. But it's probably a good idea to review your life insurance cover before working under a 700lb object balanced on a device not designed for that purpose...

Ciao,
 
Interesting that you ask; I recently constructed such a cradle - but mine is for an ST1100.

However, while the dimensions might be a bit different, the basic design would work for you.

I've been meaning to post photos and a drawing, but have been really busy at work and traveling way too much.

Here's a quick couple of photos. The block sits underneath the oil pan and the white strip rests under the centerstand (in the up position). The bike is raised without the blocking shown in the 2nd photo.

The blocking in the 2nd photo is removable (of course), as it gets slid into the locating groove created by the 2 strips underneath - after the bike is raised. Then, it needs to be removed so the bike can be lowered.

Lift cradle.jpgLift cradle blocking.jpg

I'll put dimensions in a separate post some time, but thought this might be helpful before I can get to that.

Best,

-Geo
 
Is there a safe way to use it to lift my ST1300?

I would have said no until I looked at George's pics. Looks like that arrangement is on the right track.

I have a similar lift to the one in your link. It only gets used for a small dirt bike that it seems to fit and handle easily, and to lift one end or the other of an ATV or riding mower. I do NOT use it for the ST.
 
Don't Use it!
I went through (3) of those stupid things before I purchased a real lift (J&S Lift) or (Pitbull).
The first one snapped off one of the spot welded rods designed to "lock" the lift in place. It shot across the garage, and dumped my friends Heritage Softail on its side:censored
The second one leaked oil from the jack like a british bike.
The third and final one lifted my Roadking up in the air, then the bottle jack blew its seal and settled
down metal on metal. No way to lift it up enough to remove the jack!
Took 4 large men:weights1: to pick it up and lift it off that stupid thing.
I tried the red ones, and the yellow ones, neither are safe in my opinion.
I spent the day with a torch and cut my last one in 1 inch squares I was so mad at it.
I purchased a J&S Jack (see their video on the website).
Lifted all my Harley's, GL1800 Goldwing, ST1100, ST1300 and even a friends RUNE.
You can even sit on the bike and roll it around without tie downs they are so well built.
Hope this saves you from dropping your bike.
Igofar
 
Don't Use it!
I went through (3) of those stupid things before I purchased a real lift (J&S Lift) or (Pitbull).
The first one snapped off on of the spot welded rods designed to "lock" the lift in place. It shot across the garage, and dumped my friends Heritage Softail on its side:censored
The second one leaked oil from the jack like a british bike.
The third and final one lifted my Roadking up in the air, then the bottle jack blew its seal and settled
down metal on metal. No way to lift it up enough to remove the jack!
Took 4 large men:weights1: to pick it up and lift it off that stupid thing.
I tried the red ones, and the yellow ones, neither are safe in my opinion.
I spent the day with a torch and cut my last one in 1 inch squares I was so mad at it.
I purchased a J&S Jack (see their video on the website).
Lifted all my Harley's, GL1800 Goldwing, ST1100, ST1300 and even a friends RUNE.
You can even sit on the bike and roll it around without tie downs they are so well built.
Hope this saves you from dropping your bike.
Igofar

Yep it is going in the trash this week!!! Thanks for all the input everyone has given me!!!!!
 
There are some people that use them but I don't trust hydraulic jacks. For me I put it on centerstand and put a floor jack under the oil pan with a thin board or plywood scrap. If you pull the rear wheel first, then the front you can take both wheels off at the same time to get tires changed. When I did this I would put the axle back in the forks and lower the front end on a jackstand so the bike is supported by the jack stand in the front the centerstand in the back. I had my 1100 set up like this for a couple weeks one. No issues at all. If I were to spend good money on a lift it would be on a lift table. I have been keeping an eye out for them to go on sale again at Harbor Freight or I might step up to a Direct Lift. The problem with these though is that they take up a lot of garage space that you may or may not have unless you dig them into the floor.
 
If you get in a bind and really need a lift - you can come over and use mine.

Thanks for the offer. I thought it would be an easy way to get the wheels off the bike and also to move it around my garage to position it for the winter. Oh well it did not cost me anything. I will put it at my curb and I can guarantee you somebody will pick it up before the trash man comes.
 
Do not use this type of lift if you feel it is unsafe.
BUT I have used this jack for 10 years lifting my 2001 Honda Valkyrie with an adapter ("cradle" - as Biker George calls it). It is very stable, you can add safety straps to the eye-holes also if you choose.

After seeing Biker George's post about his "cradle" I removed my Lower Cowls and built the Adapter "cradle" pictured.
It supports: contacts the entire bottom of the engine, also contacts the folded up centerstand and also I added two blocks that just kiss the left & right exhaust headers for additional stability.

I have already tested it lifting my ST and it is just as stable as when lifting my Valkyrie. Typically when removing wheels or replacing the fork seals on my Valkyrie I would lower the jack down against one of its solid stops - with a block under the wheel that I was NOT removing, this gives even more stability.
 

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Ken,

Could you provide or point me towards exact dimensions/plans for that cradle puppy? I use the similar Craftsman Pro lift, and would love a better solution until Santa brings me a Handy Lift. :D
 
Used to put my Valkyrie on one when I rode a Valkyrie. Used to put my ST1100 on one when I rode an 1100. Used to put my dirt bike on one, in fact stored the dirt bike on it, when I had a dirt bike. And presently have one, but haven't built a jig for it to hold the ST1300... yet.

Mine seems plenty strong and safe, however, after raising a bike to remove wheels, or forks, or whatever, I usually lower the bike a little and use jack stands or blocks of wood to stabilize.

All this numerous times over a ten year period. I would rather have a real lift table, but it's not presently in the budget.

I believe the lift made by, or for, Sears is one of the better ones out there. :tc1:
 
Used to put my Valkyrie on one when I rode a Valkyrie. Used to put my ST1100 on one when I rode an 1100. Used to put my dirt bike on one, in fact stored the dirt bike on it, when I had a dirt bike. And presently have one, but haven't built a jig for it to hold the ST1300... yet.

Mine seems plenty strong and safe, however, after raising a bike to remove wheels, or forks, or whatever, I usually lower the bike a little and use jack stands or blocks of wood to stabilize.

All this numerous times over a ten year period. I would rather have a real lift table, but it's not presently in the budget.

I believe the lift made by, or for, Sears is one of the better ones out there. :tc1:

I agree Dan, I also use jack stands or blocks to help stabilize when doing heavy work or torquing. My buddy has a lift-table but it has its own restrictions: like the wheels are resting on it just like it was on the floor and his is a little precarious to roll onto because there is not much width left to comfortably put your feet on to hold the bikes balance.
 
Ken,

Could you provide or point me towards exact dimensions/plans for that cradle puppy? I use the similar Craftsman Pro lift, and would love a better solution until Santa brings me a Handy Lift. :D

Nevada -
Here are the dimensions of the adapter I made. My lift is (was) made by Handy Industries called "Jak-Lift", Model 1800, Item#10753, very similar to other lifts of this type. Note: (the carpet on my adapter is optional, the piece at the left (or rear) is because my center stand is not quite level when up, the piece on the right side block was to fill a minor gap).
 

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Do not use this type of lift if you feel it is unsafe.
BUT I have used this jack for 10 years lifting my 2001 Honda Valkyrie with an adapter ("cradle" - as Biker George calls it). It is very stable, you can add safety straps to the eye-holes also if you choose.

After seeing Biker George's post about his "cradle" I removed my Lower Cowls and built the Adapter "cradle" pictured.
It supports: contacts the entire bottom of the engine, also contacts the folded up centerstand and also I added two blocks that just kiss the left & right exhaust headers for additional stability.

I have already tested it lifting my ST and it is just as stable as when lifting my Valkyrie. Typically when removing wheels or replacing the fork seals on my Valkyrie I would lower the jack down against one of its solid stops - with a block under the wheel that I was NOT removing, this gives even more stability.

Ken;

I have some possible dumb questions. I have built the bracket that you have designed. I'm not sure about the procedure that I need to follow to use it. I assume that I first need to remove the lowers on both sides, but I'm not sure how to proceed from there. With the center stand up, how do I stabilize the bike while I slide the bracket and jack under the bike? I'm usually pretty good at visualizing things, but i can't quite picture this in my mind. I just don't want to drop the bike while I'm trying to figure it out. Thank you so much for you time and attention. Also thank you for the great bracket and your willingness to share it with others.

Ken Morse
 
I have, what appears to be, the exact same Craftsman lift. I use it with the adapter below to lift my Valkyrie for some service activities. It works. Plan on keeping it.
 

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Hydraulics are for lifting, not holding things in the air while we work under the heavy weight. Sure, a lot of guys have jacked their cars up w/ a floor jack and worked under the car and a few of them were crushed/injured when the jack failed. it is simply not worth taking this chance when life safety is at risk. Always use something solid - jack stands, baulks of solid wood*, etc. to hold heavy bikes/cars/machinery up if you plan to get in harms way. Don't forget that your now aerial mobile can tip over, so tie it down.

*Concrete blocks are not a good idea. They can split. If you must use these put a wood bearing surface on top and preferably use a solid block.
 
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