I need advice from ST1100 Owners

razorbladeko

Joined
Mar 10, 2026
Messages
3
Age
32
Location
devon
Bike
St 1100 2002
Hi everyone! I need some advice to clear some suspicions I have about my motorbike, hope you can help me clear my head 😂

I have a ST1100 ABS/TCS Ex Police model, I've only ever ridden smaller motorbikes, Honda rebel, 125's ect. Never a shaft drive. So, I'm not sure if the issues/worries I have are just the bike. Or my overthinking head 😂

-Im not used to motorways, but, I have a bit of a minor wobble sometimes (I have removed the top box, which has helped a tiny bit)

-At high gears, the bike feels, not grindy (there isn't any grinding or weird noises) but, I can feel the engine a LOT. It's doesn't vibrate a massive amount. But i notice it, compared to other bikes.

The biggest thing for me is the high-speed growl & engine feels, Im not sure if it's just the type of bike with the shaft, or something is wrong, lower speeds are fine!

I love love love my ST1100, shes heavy, rustic, a little beat up, but, in a world of sports bikes and chains. She's my favourite so far!

I was hoping some ST veterans could remove my worries 😂


Thanks for any help!!
Josh (Devon, UK)
 
Make sure your carbs are synced and your oil level is proper (not too high) in the sight glass.
Also look for unusual tire wire patterns, loose steering stem bearings, improper tire inflation - that can cause wobbles.
I have over 1/2 million miles on ST1100s - they don't wobble and they don't vibrate when set up properly.
 
razorbladeko said:
-Im not used to motorways, but, I have a bit of a minor wobble sometimes (I have removed the top box, which has helped a tiny bit)
Click to expand...
do you mean a bit of "weave" at highway speeds, like the frame doesn't feel as solid as it should?

That could be caused by the front axle not being tightened down in the proper sequence. I had that happen years ago, but only when I had gear loaded on the back of the bike, and couldn't figure it out. I wasn't following the proper tightening sequence, and after I changed that I haven't encountered it since. But, I don't tour as much as I used to so I can't say 100% that was the cause, but I believe it was.

If I'm saying this wrong hopefully someone else will correct me, but I believe the proper sequence is to tighten the axle "nut" (which is actually a short bolt) onto the axle with all 4 fork pinch bolts loose. There's a hole in the end of the axle that you can put a rod or screwdriver through to counter the torque of the tightening process. Then pump the forks a couple times to get it to settle in, then tighten the pinch bolts.. The service manual isn't clear on this procedure, its something I learned here over the years.
 
If the front wheel has been off, there are two axle spacers that must go on the correct sides or the tire will be off center. Ride like that long enough and the tire can wear unevenly.

As UP notes, the 1100 doesn't vibrate unless it's out of tune such as one cylinder running lean at speed. All you should hear is the "industrial whine" and the exhaust. Hopefully something simple and cheap to fix.
 
Here's my note on installing the front wheel:

FR WHEEL INSTALL

  • Wheel on, axle nut loose
  • Bounce/rock on CC
  • Tighten axle nut 65 ft lb
  • Tighten R pinch bolts 16 ft lb 192 in lb
  • Tighten caliper mount bolts R 20 ft lb 240 in lb L 240 in lb/9 ft lb 108in lb blue loctite all
  • Off CC
  • Pump forks, brake on
  • Tighten L pinch bolts 16 ft lb 192 in lb
  • Don’t forget wheel spacer on R side and speedo drive L side
  • SPEEDO NOTCH GOES BEHIND THE FORK NOTCH … The speedo lug should be behind the one on the fork.
  • snug the pinch bolt, torque the axle nut, then torque the pinch bolt
  • banjo bolts 25 ft libs
 
First, hi speed growl, what conditions are the tires in, are they smooth as you run your hand around them or do they have raised edges? Is the growl at speed more noticeable on turns or leaning? 1100 engine are very smooth so let's try to eliminate tires and wheel bearings first. I would also do a careful inspection of the rear swing arm, in the UK they are known for severe rust problems.
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Thanks everyone! Awesome advice! I bought it from a previous mechanic & the MOT was completely clean, she's in for a service soon & when saying similar stuff as on here, he did suggest the carbs & front wheel alignment. So definitely similar ideas. Also, he said he's never had to clean the carbs, I've had old motorbikes before, where I've had to do this. I'm using the top fuel in the UK that I can get from fuel stations. So, that probably doesn't help too 😂

Going to replace the old foam underneath the dummy tank & get the rest done either myself or at a mechanics, I usually do my own work, but after having issues changing the slave & the state the police "Decommissioned" it in (They just cut wires, which caused a lot of panels to bulge and crack) it's probably best to get a clean start with the mechanics 🤔

Still, with all these problems, still better than any other motorbike I've had 😂
 
Check the exhaust joints - where the silencer enters the collector box on both sides. and on one side (I don't remember which) one pair of downpipes joins with the other pair - somewhere ahead of the collector near the rear of the crankcase. Someone will chime in and correct that piece of lost memory.

The issue can be as simple as that. If one side is leaking exhaust then there is an imbalance in the pressure coming from the engine and that can be felt through the footpegs and through the bars. I was suprised that it caused that much vibration.

Get the preload and damping set for your weight. Check the tyres and pressures. with the manual - I THINK 36/42 for the ST1100. But check for yourself.

The top fuel isn't a bad idea to help clean it out. Although the E10 will help absorb any moisture that is in the tank.
 
jfheath said:
Check the exhaust joints - where the silencer enters the collector box on both sides. and on one side (I don't remember which) one pair of downpipes joins with the other pair - somewhere ahead of the collector near the rear of the crankcase. Someone will chime in and correct that piece of lost memory.

The issue can be as simple as that. If one side is leaking exhaust then there is an imbalance in the pressure coming from the engine and that can be felt through the footpegs and through the bars. I was suprised that it caused that much vibration.

Get the preload and damping set for your weight. Check the tyres and pressures. with the manual - I THINK 36/42 for the ST1100. But check for yourself.

The top fuel isn't a bad idea to help clean it out. Although the E10 will help absorb any moisture that is in the tank.
Click to expand...
Yeee. Funny enough, when I sorted out the slave, one of the flanges snapped in the middle. 3 exhausts later... (None fit at all) I managed to get them on the best I could. There isn't any exhaust leaks hopefully, I've done lots of paper, fog ect tests to see if the exhaust is leaking, but thankfully it passed the MOT (They check that here, not sure anywhere else) and I couldn't see any leaks.

But, that is a good shout 👍🏻 I've had a rough time with this bike, but, it's taught me a lot 😅
 
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