I want to repair this alternator for an ST1100 and your're invited

moddy

moddy

the mod
Joined
Dec 2, 2011
Messages
775
Location
Seymour, IN
Bike
05 ST1300
My present alternator, with careful testing of it's output, shows one of the leads isn't producing volts. I was graciously given this alternator recently after my mention on the forum that I'd like to upgrade, since mine wasn't working at 25 years old and 75k miles.
So, until a 40 amp alternator and base plate present itself for less 100.00 AND you have more time than money...I want to try to make this one work.
What is known about this one is when it came off his bike, to arbitrarily upgrade to a 40A alternate without problems, this one became and extra part.

The point of this thread is while I'm disassembling this alternator is to document it properly with photos, techniques and hopes of rehabilitation that others contribute and gain the knowledge necessary for their own success if theirs or a friends alternator fails.

At first sight, under the dust cover was this condition of the wires, will probably need to be replaced to the stator connections. Not sure of the model year, except for earlier than '96, oil soaked, exposed to elements of weather and heat from operation. I intended on chiseling out the resin with an engraver, this technique has worked well with removing two part epoxy to glue it again. So, we'll see. It's definitely a first time alternator repair with a background in repair of ac and dc electrical work. Due to being in a jam.

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I wanted to get back to this project soon, just didn't know how much time I would spend on it. At first, the engraver seems to make fast work of busting up the resin as you proceed to the connections. After 20 minutes, you've had plenty of time to think about how all this "might" turn out and will it "work" by the time you've done your best.
Not knowing the orientation of the wires below the resin, I engraved through some of the strands, but I had in mind to replace all of the wires from the stator connections.
I still don't know if a component needs to come out of the housing to make new connections. I don't know how it's glued in there. I also read somewhere on the forum a company in Texas will rebuild an 1100 stator for 120.00. Even though I'm poor, that would be a far better return for someone who knows what they're doing and the likelihood of a viable stator in return in high.
I still want to explore these components. Once I do and find that I can make good connections, will have to figure out sealing it again. It was obviously done this way for a reason so may have to take it to a starter and alternator shop for direction if youtube doesn't come through.



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Dave, if you need another 28 amp alt cap for experimentation let me know. I've got one that I'm about to pitch in to the scrap heap. Good luck!
 
sirepair said:
Dave, if you need another 28 amp alt cap for experimentation let me know. I've got one that I'm about to pitch in to the scrap heap. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Dear SI Repair. I would take it reluctantly. The way it's going, and the complete lack of stator build experience. I'm going to luck this one just like I luck about everything else I do. It's why my email address has maverick in it. Maverickmoddy.
What do you know about the cap's condition? Do you think it needs to be wound again, or was the removal followed by a 40A upgrade?
 
Mine lost a leg, just as yours. I replaced it with a 40 amp. I have not inspected it too closely. PM me your address and I'll get it shipped to you.
 
Now I'm stuck, maybe it's not a big deal. This is where I'm at.
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I've chiseled out enough of the resin to understand the wires go through this point to the inside connections. It may look daunting at first because the wires are quite frayed. As you're looking at it the two wires on top are white and black, left to right and the bottom 3 are yellow, done.
The problem is I believe the round black structure needs to come out before I can removed the stator.
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If you look at the bottom of the picture, just over the stator winding you can see 3 copper tabs, connections. I believe the ac wires that come out the back attach here.
The black housing that surrounds the 3 leads looks like it will hit the tubular structure, trying to remove the stator, unless that structure is removed first.
Has anyone ever taken this apart? I knew, going into this, I might not fully understand the anatomy. With hundreds of dollars to replace this stuff, it's worth figuring this out so we can refurbish them to keep us on the road.
 
I have never disassembled a 28 amp unit so this may seem lame. IF you can free the windings from inside the housing...probably screwed into place, loosen it and remove the fasteners. Locate a thin wall steel or aluminum tube (electrical conduit?) that will fit inside the hole where the wires are encapsulated and that will not rest on the prongs. Carefully heat the the epoxy with a torch and gently tap the whole mess (epoxy and frazzled wires...may as well cut them short enough to fit inside the metal tubing) toward the inside of the housing. If it breaks free and the coils come free also, repairs will be easier.

I did a similar repair back in the military. Spent the whole weekend working the potting material out with a soldering iron and wood burning tips.
 
Yeah that's the part I'm at. The connector at the back and the stator windings inside is what I'm trying to remove from the cap.
 
I'd start focusing on the 3 smaller resin-dots, as I expect some bolts holding the stator in place underneath...
 
ST1100Y said:
I'd start focusing on the 3 smaller resin-dots, as I expect some bolts holding the stator in place underneath...
Click to expand...

If you look at the first photo, it shows two bolt holes on either side. I think the problem is the sealant that's holding it together at this point. Makes me wonder what the process is commercially, for getting a used stator in to repair.
 
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Well well well, just discovered the black cylindrical part is wrapped in wire about 80% of it's surface on the outside. I noticed the wire wrapped around it while I was trying to remove the black part (whatever that thing is).
So if that cone is machine pressed in there and doesn't come out, the 3 contacts down inside the cap, in it's black housing must go out the back because they will hit that cylindrical copper wound part unless that part is removed. So all the work is done from the outside of the cap. You place the stator but the wires come out of the back where you make your connections. Finding out what part those two bolt holes secure in the back will be good. Likely that black housing where all the wires come out of the back.
 
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Moddy
I'm interested in how this turns out. I'll dig out another one just in case. Just fyi that came off of a 92 with about 90000 on it.

Dave
 
DaveS said:
Moddy
I'm interested in how this turns out. I'll dig out another one just in case. Just fyi that came off of a 92 with about 90000 on it.

Dave
Click to expand...
Thanks Dave, I'm just trying not to break anything while I'm trying to fix it. Still working on understanding where the oil is as it's oil cooled. Completely filled or oil just at the bearings?
It's still a new thread, so as people find it they might have more to contribute.
 
In the first post picture all the way to the right there are three round circles. It would make sense if these were sealed assembly holes. Will find out tomorrow, getting close to a dead end for stator removal otherwise.
 
ST1100Y said:
I'd start focusing on the 3 smaller resin-dots, as I expect some bolts holding the stator in place underneath...
Click to expand...

Well Bugger! I missed this post, it would have pointed to the three discreet resin circles sooner!
 
@Oldbikefixr On those rebuilds you've done what was the process of resin removal? And why on earth was that stuff used, it's a pain to have to remove for disassembly. Is there an alternative to seal it when I'm done, or will I be researching the resin.
 
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Found a screw, yay! Found it too well. By drilling a little bit too ambitious not realizing it was so shallow. Working on finding the way to dissolve the resin.
 
ST1100Y said:
Durability... its heat- & oil-resistant...
The 26A unit was never intended to be rebuild...
Click to expand...

Okay, that makes sense. The Integrity of the screw holes with resin after 25 years of the elements is amazing!
It's also a little disconcerting if I intended on wiring the stator again as a first time exercise.
 
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Success. The screw halfway extracted is the one I very nearly damaged the head of. Was able to turn it out with an impact screw extractor. Don't know why I forgot the use of my engraver to chisel out the resin over the screw head.
Now I can finish removing the rest of this Cruise. Once the stator is removed from the cap, I can use heat to remove the rest of the resin.
 
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