If not now, then..... when?

Day 11

Brienz, Switzerland to Airolo, Switzerland

It’s a little bit warmer this morning, especially for Switzerland. We are hearing wind of a “dangerous heat wave” coming to southern Europe. I assure you, this south Louisiana boy ain’t worried about that.

We gear up at the KSU time and taxi out of Brienz ready to ride. There was lots of chatter on the intercom about how much fun the past 2 days were enjoying the beauty of Switzerland. But our fearless leader Greg re-focuses us and promises new and exciting adventures just around the corner.

Which corner is anyone’s guess – I suppose at any point, we can just …. pick one.

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These roads in Switzerland are quite simply the finest riding I have ever experienced. They are all impeccably maintained with nary a crack in the pavement. I’m having fantastic fun leaning the bike in these curves.

Lunch at the top of some mountain pass.

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And then…. rinse, lather, repeat.

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Let me make a statement regarding the Alpine Mountain Passes. According to Google, who knows everything (LOL), there are 222 primary mapped paved mountain passes in the Alpine Mountain Range of Europe. We tried to the best of our ability to document each one we crossed over the month of our travel. I’m quite certain that we missed documenting one or two along the way. But for posterity’s sake, we rode over sixty-four (64) documented mountain passes. During the rest of this ride report, when I am able to discern it from the pictures, I will mention their names. And at the end of the report, I’ll list all of the passes in random order for the benefit of anyone planning a ride to the Alps.

But the short version is, while I have my favorites, they were ALL wonderful.

Some of the passes still utilized the old cobble stones for the roadway. Extra caution was called for there.

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It’s just one twisty ribbon of roadway after another….

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In the afternoon, we ran up Grimsel Pass in the sunshine with a little bit of traffic to deal with. But it’s easy – there are plenty of places to pass, and mostly, these people just move over for us. We get to the top and I remember it being exactly 50 degrees F and a little windy – that cool air felt really nice running through my jacket vents.

We start heading down and soon realize that a group of late model Lotus sports cars were behind us, and they were feeling as frisky as we were. We had great fun passing 5 or more cars at the same time on some of the more open areas. On that particular run, I kind of wished I had my FJR1300 with me. But the Africa Twin is doing just fine and I’m enjoying the ride very much.

Greg and Bryan found a set of rooms with a common bathroom in the town of Airolo, Switzerland. This a great place centrally located around some of the finest riding passes in the Alps. So we booked 3 nights at this place. They have a restaurant in the hotel, and the pizza there is very good.

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But the hit of the show was dessert. This is Chocolate Panna Cotta with homemade cream, and it was scrumptious.

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We had a lot of fun cutting up with the waitress at that dinner, who was the daughter of the hotelier. She was cute (in a non-creepy way) and she played along with us.

It was only 225 kilometers, but we made big (s)miles today.
 
Day 12

Airolo, Switzerland

I slept very well in the twin bed of our hotel, but I must say, Europeans have a nocturnal housekeeping habit that I’m struggling with: Their blankets are too short. Seriously, EVERY place we stayed at provided us with clean linens, but if you are taller than about 5’-9”, then you left with only 2 choices: sleep in the fetal position or your feet hang out the end of the blanket. My solution? Wear socks to sleep – done. I guess that’s part of immersing yourself into the culture of another part of the world.

At the risk of sound redundant, Greg has informed us that for today, he’s got BIG plans for us. Today – we are gong to ride the motorcycles. As “original” as that might be, today we are going to ride from one alpine mountain pass to another.

When I was a kid, like most everywhere else in the deep south, we had a horse racetrack. Cajun people enjoy drinking and gambling, and somebody figured out how to make money on both. The races were broadcast on a local radio station, and as it typical from that era, the Race Announcer had a great voice. He would do a good job of entertaining you using only your ears and your imagination. At every race, after the horses were staged, the bell would ring, the gates opened, and the announcer would say:

“Ils sont partis!!!!”

Which is cajun French for: “And….. they’re off!”

I hadn’t thought about that for maybe 40 years, but somehow on this morning, thinking about our motorized “horses”, and what is getting ready to happen, I waited for a lull in the intercom conversation, and proudly exclaimed: “Ils sont partis!!”

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Heading toward the top of the first (or second, it doesn’t matter) pass, Greg stops here for some nostalgia. This is where a scene from the James Bond movie Goldfinger was filmed.

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Gary has fallen, and fortunately he CAN get up. I haven’t heard much about his foot, so I am presuming that he is either feeling better, or he has chosen to live with it.

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A few days ago, Gary loaned me one of his head socks to serve as added padding for my bald head still healing from bumping it a week or so ago. That was GOLD for me and speaks volumes to something that I wanted to point out. Quite simply…..

***** happens.

When you are halfway around the world for a month with four other people, exposed to the weather every day, performing activities that are physical and physically demanding, then the idea that you and them are going to just “sail” through that without a hitch is ludicrous. The possibilities are endless, and as a retired Risk Manager who spent decades of his life honing in the art of being paranoid, if I allow it, I can lather myself over this real good. But I’ve learned over the years that there is another way:

Chill out

Relax about it. Some ***** is gonna happen – to ALL of us. We’ve all packed resources that give us the best chance of addressing _______ on the road, and for everything else, we have a credit card and insurance. So – when that “thing” rises its ugly head, you have a choice. You can sit in the corner and suck your thumb, or pour money on it and …. Don’t worry, be happy. Let me tell you, the latter is MUCH more enjoyable.

We get to the top of a pass, and the sun is just right for some terrific photography. We would stop and shoot, ride a little bit to another spot for a different angle, stop and shoot, etc…..

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Why don’t I just STFU for a bit and let the pictures tell the story…..

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This is one of my favorite photos from the entire trip.

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This is another shot that mimics a scene from Goldfinger.

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We stopped at the intersection of 3 pass roads and this was parked next to us. I don’t think I’ve ever seen one of these. It was in immaculate condition and obviously ride ready.

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Today kind of reminded me of Northwestern Arkansas. It doesn’t matter – just… go!

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Joie de vivre, my friends.

(look it up)

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Now late in the morning, we turn off the Sustan Pass to this little bitty out and back road that Greg found somehow. It goes to Lake Engstlenese. It’s one of those fantastic Goat Trails I’ve been raving about.

No lie – this was one of my most favorite parts of the trip.

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We are just putt putting along this exquisite mountain valley with the entire world to ourselves, except for these gals doing their thing and clanging their neck bells in wonderful song.

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Water is spewing right out of the mountain in 8 separate places here – stunning!

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Now if you fine people don’t like this, then do yourself a HUGE favor: sell the motorcycle and take up golf ‘cause I’m gonna tell ya, it don’t get ANY better than this.

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As if this is some kind of moto-fairy tale, at the end of the road there’s a café, its lunch time, and it’s open.

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This is a rare moment.

I’m in paradise, with people I care about. We have it ALL to ourselves. Everything, and I mean EVERYTHING, is perfect. The weather is perfect. The riding is perfect. The bier is perfect. I’m feeling ZERO pain anywhere. And the best part? I’m smart enough to know it!

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After lunch, we have no choice but to ride the same road back, an inevitability that pleases me very much.

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I wish I would have written down the name of this road – Greg, can you help?

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We get back to Sustan Pass, take a left, downshift 2 gears, and let the horses run!

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Sustan Pass was my favorite riding road of the entire trip. It has everything in abundance: 1st gear switchbacks, double apex curves, decreasing radii curves, rhythm S-curves – you name it.

And even … tunnels with waterfalls!

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What a day!

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We get to the end of Sustan, and ….. it’s about that time!

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Then it was a short ride back to the hotel in Airolo. The restaurants were closed (I think it was Sunday), so we bought groceries in the village, so I made a simple salad for dinner, and ate it at a public sitting place.

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Today was some of the finest riding I have ever experienced. It was just…. Perfect.

Passes for today include:

San Gottardo
Sustan
Grimsel
Furka
Nufenen
 
The Grimsel, Furka, Susten, Nufennen and several other ones in that area epitomize what makes Alps riding so special and the Swiss Alps in particular.

I too am a fan of those "Goat Trail" roads. I have ridden many of them multiple times including the road to Engstlensee. Like you I really, really enjoy these roads because they show you a part of Switzerland and back country mountains that a lot of riders miss. They are another example of how the Swiss make all their natural beauty accessible almost everywhere.

The cobblestone Tremola Road used to be the old Gotthard pass and is Switzerland's longest road "monument." The Swiss have all kinds of monuments. You may have seen the view of the Tremola Road from the Gotthard Pass. It's a unique ride for sure.

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