If not now, then..... when?

Day 23:
Forni de Sopra, Italy to Kranjska Gora, Slovenia

The hotel room was a bit warm last night and in case anyone is wondering, Greg still snores. None to worry – I put in the ear plugs and off to La La Land I go. Gary made good progress yesterday riding toward Heidelberg, and apparently his foot is no worse for the wear. He should get there relatively early today, leaving him plenty of time to prep for his flight tomorrow.

On the other hand, the rest of us have places to go and so after a nice FCB, we hit the road.

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Northern Italy is so beautiful, ya’ll.

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My point and shoot camera got a good shot from the side of the road here. The water appears to be down in this lake, and quite frankly, this is what we have been seeing all along this month (low water).

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I don’t need a GPS to know where we are going.

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Simply stunning!

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Apparently, no homemade ice cream today, so we took one for the team.

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For a while now, Greg has been wavering back and forth regarding going to Slovenia. Apparently, he’s decided it’s a go.

I give you: Slovenia! The Julian Alps!

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Stay thirsty, my friends.

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We are on the northern end of this country, the 6th in our journey. We are running through a national park near Kranjska Gora. It is so pretty here.

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It’s also a bit warm – at one point this afternoon, my moto temp guage says 92 deg F! Still within the national parc, Greg stops at a beautiful lake, and, well….. If ya know, you know…..

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While I was cooling off, the others went into a lakeshore café and started working on happy hour. Soon – I joined them. This one is my kind of bier.

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And ….. another installment of the dessert tour!

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Greg and Bryan found us a nice apartment in the village just outside of the parc. Another gorgeous day riding in the Alps!

Passes today
Vrsic Pass
Sella Ciampigotto Pass
Sella di Razzo
Sella Di Rioda
Sella Carnizza
 
In my not so humble opinion, you can't do any of that with lodging reservations and a chase vehicle.

Agreed, we have only once, in over 50 years of touring gone with a group (apart from our Sahara trip.... don't ask!). We knew the leader personally and his routing and hotel selection was brilliant.... but, you would think some of the group had never left their homes before (and they had) they were hard work!

Getting hotels without booking used to be a bit of a hassle (no GPS or internet). You'd have to pull up at an establishment, go in, ask if they had a room, how much, could we afford it? All in our best French/German/Italian etc and maybe repeat the process several times before actually finding somewhere. Today..... when we are ready to stop, get the phone out, choose a booking service, find a hotel or room that looks good, book..... and arrive. Not once have we been unable to find somewhere acceptable and quite often on arrival much more than acceptable:) If we ride past somewhere and it looks appealing we will still pull up and ask.
 
My biggest problem with tour 'groups' is the larger they are the greater the chance there will be 'one' in the group.
That 'one' will be, as we say in the hills, 'the south end of a north bound mule' and will try to make it all about them.
I'm at the point that unless I've ridden lots of miles with a rider, I do not want to ride any distance with them.
'Ugly' will come out if enough days are spent on the road.
'Burnt child fears the fire' and I've been burnt on rides over here more than once because I let my kindness override my common sense! ;)
 
Well, obviously a group tour isnt for everyone, but it is a valuable option for others.

IMO if you are only able to make one trip to Europe in your life (as I was) and you dont have a group of friends that want to go too (which I didn't) , unless you want to stumble around 5 foreign different countries, not knowing the best routes/sights to see, not speaking the languages, not knowing all the laws, having to maybe fix a rented bike by yourself on the side of the road, not knowing who to call in case of a medical emergency (as we did) and a hundred other little things that can come up on a motorcycle trip, booking with a well established, experienced and reputable tour group (as I did) made what could possibly have been a frustrating disaster into the most enjoyable motorcycle trip of my lifetime. I have no complaints at all with how my European motorcycle tour went. Yea, you can get a butt wipe fellow rider in the group I guess, but everyone in our group was friendly, enthusiastic and a pleasure to ride with. The two Aussie couples were kinda wild lol, but everyone got along and seemed to enjoy everything about the trip. Some of us stayed in touch long after the tour was over and we returned home.

If I were younger and had more money, I'd gladly do it again, exactly the same way.

YMMV
 
you can't do any of that with lodging reservations
I do agree with what you said, however,
during the riding season you may get away without booking hotels ahead of time when riding alone, and even that can be a hit or miss. But having a group of people it can be next to impossible to find hotels on the fly.
Unless you do camping.
 
I do agree with what you said, however,
during the riding season you may get away without booking hotels ahead of time when riding alone, and even that can be a hit or miss. But having a group of people it can be next to impossible to find hotels on the fly.
Unless you do camping.

We were a group of 5 (sometimes for various reasons, 4): A married couple and 3 gentlemen. In 30 days, we had no trouble finding lodging within our budget at a couple hours notice. Now - late July into August? Different story, I think..

All worthy responses and I apprecaite you taking time to contribute to my ride report. As I mentioned, this is not a "one size fits all". Each way has it's pros and cons. I'm merely sharing what I did with really only ONE goal in mind:

To encourage anyone thinking about such a trip to DO IT, and do it now. Because.... if not now, then..... when?
 
I too would encourage anyone considering a European motorcycle trip to actively look into it. There are no guarantees of tomorrow. It was singularly the best trip of my motorcycle life. I love riding in the US and Canada. Have ridden to all of the lower 48 states and the vast majority of National Parks, have ridden most of the "famous" motorcycle roads in the country (still missing the 3 sisters in Texas) but riding in Europe was a unique and exhilarating experience as evidenced by the text and pictures in this most excellent ride report. I've often said to people if Europe was where Canada is, I'd go there all the time. It cannot be overstated what a great and unique experience riding there is.
 
Fully agree, See my post #6 in this thread. One never knows what life will throw at you, Some times it's a fast ball, sometimes it's a curve ball, maybe a slider. If you are lucky you might get a hit and and find your self on base. Enjoy every min as life is short and you only have one. Time waits for no one.
 
Day 24
Kranjska Gora, Slovenia to Lienz, Austria

Slovenia was a terrific surprise on this trip. I must admit, prior to yesterday, I didn’t really have any opinion of this country, one way or the other. But now, I state emphatically – The Julian Alps of Slovenia are gorgeous and worth a visit.

We got out of the hotel relatively early while the temperature was cooler. That would not last long – the infamous European Heat Wave of 2026 has found us. We weren’t riding 30 minutes and we crossed back into Austria. We had breakfast as this gas station that offered a lot of delicious pastries. Quite unusual to me.

Every chance we got, we climbed to beat the heat.

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And as we climbed, it got more comfortable, not surprisingly.

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We paid the hefty toll to ride the Nockalmstrass highway – this is a great road with excellent views all around.

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This is a good picture.

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At one of the overlooks, these gals were taking it easy.

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We walked this chewing the fat with each other – kind of similar, eh?

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As an avid bicyclist, part of me was ITCHING to take a bike ride in these parts. But another part realized that these roads are VERY steep in spots, and I’m not sure my fitness would be up for it.

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Beautiful countryside.

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By now, the temperature is getting sticky – I’m seeing temps consistently in the mid-90s. We made it to Lientz, Switzerland about 4 pm, and everyone was ready to get off the bikes. Greg had a SNAFU with the hotel reservations, which he rectified with the very helpful desk clerk.

Everyone got settled in and met at the hotel bar for Happy Hour.

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The view from the hotel balcony is stunning.

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In an all-to familiar but effective scenario, for dinner, we walked to the old town.

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I love these little Fiats.

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The food was good at the dinner restaurant, but the culinary hit of the day for me was the gelato. By now it may be apparent that my favorite flavor combination for ice cream is chocolate and strawberry.

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We will stay here 2 nights. Tomorrow is an “off bike” day. You guessed it – I’m going to find some waterfalls!

Passes today:
Nockalmstrass Pass
Hochster Punkt Pass
 
My biggest problem with tour 'groups' is the larger they are the greater the chance there will be 'one' in the group.

As someone who has been organizing small group (max 7 bikes, sometimes as few as 4) tours for 25+ years, my biggest concern is also getting the "one" who either cannot ride as well as they say or perhaps has a personality trait that won't mesh with the group, etc. I view every tour as my vacation too and I prefer not to ride with any klunkers if I can help it.

When someone enquires about my tours, I stress that they are for experienced riders only. I have a sign-up questionnaire that I ask everyone to fill out regarding their riding experience and I talk to everyone, often multiple times so that I get a sense of their personality as well as their riding skill. I have now had 600+ individual riders come on tour and have gotten reasonably good at sorting people out. There have been multiple times when I have encouraged (or perhaps scared) a rider to go elsewhere. I am fortunate now that approx. half my tour members every season are repeat riders. Some have been with me 4 or 5 times, which I appreciate.

I also went for 15 years (3 weeks in June and 3 weeks in September) on my own prior to starting my small tour business, so I can appreciate the attraction to going on your own. The arrival of my kids and the related expenses of raising them steered me towards my tour business as a way to pay for my Alpinitous.

you may get away without booking hotels ahead of time when riding alone, and even that can be a hit or miss. But having a group of people it can be next to impossible to find hotels on the fly.

I still spend a week or two on my own scouting out new roads, hotels, cable cars etc. and I generally have no problem on my own. I absolutely need hotel reservations for my groups, and I almost always make dinner reservations too as soon as I arrive at our hotel. On the rare occasions when snow causes me to have to change the route, finding hotels last minute that have 4 - 7 rooms available can be a challenge.
 
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My biggest problem with tour 'groups' is the larger they are the greater the chance there will be 'one' in the group.
That 'one' will be, as we say in the hills, 'the south end of a north bound mule' and will try to make it all about them.
That, or his missus flutters around everybody, nagging, poisoning the well with "... well, my husband would have planned much better routes..."
(that the routes had been emailed to everyone weeks in advance for everyone to look at, is nil and void...)

A "guided tour" isn't a democracy... and any group larger then 3 bikes is "transport"... especially in alpine terrain...
 
This was at one time my dream to lead groups on the Alps and Pyrenees tours.
But not that possible if living across the ocean and being a main bread winner didn't help too.
 
A "guided tour" isn't a democracy... and any group larger then 3 bikes is "transport"... especially in alpine terrain...
True that.
On our tour thru french Alps I took 4 friends.
One of them have done numerous rides with me mostly one day trips and it was fine.
But on this trip he was trouble to say the least. I regretted taking him along although he asked me to. We still don't talk and I'm totally fine with it.
 
I’m from eastern Germany, the former GDR.

The Alps had always been a dream, but out of reach. We weren’t allowed to travel to the most “capitalist” foreign countries. Then, in 1989, the Berlin Wall fell, and the world opened up to us. As soon as I had my first Deutschmarks in hand, I bought a new BMW R65—and my bank account was empty. A year later, I was set to head to the Alps on that BMW. Since I had no idea how things worked abroad, I booked an Alpine tour through a motorcycle magazine. The trip took us to Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. That was in 1991. The next year, I booked the same tour again. The hotels were pre-booked, and a tour guide rode ahead of us. Eight motorcycles rode in a group, and we always got along well.

Now I knew how it all worked, and since then I’ve only done solo tours through the Alps. I always plan my hotel stays for 14 days—sometimes three days here, sometimes two days there, spread out nicely across Switzerland or in Austria near the border.

On solo trips, I don’t have to worry about anyone else and can stick to my planned daily routes, whether it’s raining, snowing, or the sun is shining. Since they’re all motorcycle-friendly hotels, there are plenty of people to talk to in the evenings after the ride.

holm from Germany


Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
 
I’m from eastern Germany, the former GDR.

The Alps had always been a dream, but out of reach. We weren’t allowed to travel to the most “capitalist” foreign countries. Then, in 1989, the Berlin Wall fell, and the world opened up to us. As soon as I had my first Deutschmarks in hand, I bought a new BMW R65—and my bank account was empty. A year later, I was set to head to the Alps on that BMW. Since I had no idea how things worked abroad, I booked an Alpine tour through a motorcycle magazine. The trip took us to Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. That was in 1991. The next year, I booked the same tour again. The hotels were pre-booked, and a tour guide rode ahead of us. Eight motorcycles rode in a group, and we always got along well.

Now I knew how it all worked, and since then I’ve only done solo tours through the Alps. I always plan my hotel stays for 14 days—sometimes three days here, sometimes two days there, spread out nicely across Switzerland or in Austria near the border.

On solo trips, I don’t have to worry about anyone else and can stick to my planned daily routes, whether it’s raining, snowing, or the sun is shining. Since they’re all motorcycle-friendly hotels, there are plenty of people to talk to in the evenings after the ride.

holm from Germany


Translated with DeepL.com (free versi
Sounds like the Blue Rim Tours
 
Day 25:
Lienz, Austria

Today we are all on our own. We agreed to meet back at the hotel bar this evening at 5 pm-ish. By now, it should be bluntly obvious what I’m gonna do. Hint – it’s hiking.

I stopped at the grocery to get some supplies and had a very basic breakfast on the seat of the motorcycle in the parking lot.

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My wife, the religious one in our fine partnership, says that the “devil rests on an idle mind”.

If that is so, then… I’m good.

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Last night I perused All Trails looking for waterfalls. That didn’t take long – this place is LOADED with them. So – I picked a few to see and started heading north out of Lienz.

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The Moll River parallels the roadway, taking all of the watershed from the adjacent mountains and delivering it to the Isel River further south. Mother Nature’s stairway.

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The first waterfall I stopped at was near the village of Grobkirchheim. I was the only person there.

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There used to be a water mill at this site, and they have re-created how it looked back then. The workmanship on this is very good.

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I climbed the hill a short ways and the water is running quite well this morning.

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This is a nice place – the fall drops in 3 parts, with the lower part (shown) being the highest at about 75 feet.

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Today, I’ve decided that there will be 2 things in abundance. The first is “snacks”.

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And the other will be – chilled feet!

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As I turn my attention away from the waterfall, it occurs to me that the view from here is not too shabby.

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I dried off a bit and walked back down where the horse was waiting patiently.

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I can already tell – this is gonna be another great day.

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I get back on the highway and run up river about 10 minutes to the next stop, called the Jungfernsprung Falls.

The entry way to the trail sure looks inviting.

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This ought to be good!

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There was a marked trail that goes up to a vantage point at the base of the falls. I was almost there when I saw a spur off the trail that looked like it got a bit closer.

I was right!

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This waterfall is magnificent! I remember guessing that this must be at least 400 feet, and I wasn’t off by much (443 feet).

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And the view of the hillside across the valley continues to impress as well.

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Snack time in the shade. I got it all to myself. Un freaking real.

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I went to the first pool past the base of the falls to contemplate the meaning of life.

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The marked trail was shaded and I walked back up to the vantage point just to see it. My private viewing spot was better. So I walked back down to the horse, again waiting patiently for me in the shade.

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Still moving further up river, and by definition, climbing in altitude (and attitude), I got to the village of Heiligerblut. turn off the highway, and get off the beaten path to my next stop – the Grobnitz Wasserfall. Straight out of the parking area, the trail looks very peaceful and inviting.

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The Grobnitz creek is running today. I suppose the rain last night helped.

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Once again, there is nobody here. I’m having such a great time exploring on my own.

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The air is cooler near that water.

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This is a cascading waterfall, and the white noise is very pleasing to me.

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It’s getting warm and that water is very refreshing.

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It’s quite therapeutic to me. Sitting at that spot, immersed in it, I feel like I can let it go. Let the water take my troubles and wash them away.

Right on, man…..

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I stripped down to my riding shorts and sat in a calmer section of the creek. I couldn’t stay there long – that glacial water was just too cold for this southerner to swim in. I dried off a little and then walked back to the bike. On the way out of the park, I couldn’t resist stopping to say hello to these horses. Each one got a piece of a granola bar.

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Back to the highway, I turned up hill and rode to the toll entrance for the Grobglockner Pass Road. The toll for motorcycles is $35.50 (euro). Knowing that we are all coming back here tomorrow, I decided that was far enough and turned around to go back.

On the way down, I stopped at this pull out. With the light JUST right, I was able to get this incredible shot of the village. To me, now having experienced weeks of it, THIS is the quintessential Alps.

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I got back to the hotel very early in the afternoon. That was intentional. I wanted to be of the road before it got too hot. I had time to wash some clothes and take care of some other minor chores. Then I took a shower and took a nap.

I met the others for Happy Hour at the hotel. Today is Bryan and Marissa’s wedding anniversary, and they spent it together in the city. Greg is still trying to get his body caught up with the torturous schedule from dealing with the wrecked motorcycle, so for the most part, he hung out at the hotel and rested.

We walked to the village and ate at the same restaurant as last night. My steak was cooked to a perfect medium.

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And then we walked next door for another rendition of Musical Desserts – everyone enjoyed ALL of the desserts this evening.

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In the old town, there were opportunities for a little silly time.

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When we ride, we RIDE! (IYKYK)

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In the center of town, an orchestra was playing some music and we listened to it for a while. Some young girls served us an Austrian liquor that was tasty – I think it was some kind of Schnaps.

The walk back to the hotel was very enjoyable. Again, everyone was talking and cutting up and just being …. happy. The end is much closer than the beginning. But there is still a lot more to go.

Stay thirsty, my friends……
 
Looks like you had a very enjoyable hike. I think Austria sometimes gets under rated, somewhat like a less pretentious, less fussy Switzerland (which I love) - but it is a beautiful country with a lot of wonderful nature spots to enjoy. For some reason it did not occur to me until I chanced upon an article in my news feed that Austria, Switzerland, etc. also have significant tick (and their related pathogen issues) populations like here in NH and hikers have to take care when in the woods (although Vienna supposedly has them too). I'm guessing that any you might have inadvertently picked were left floating in the glacial water. ;)

It was nice to see your pics of Lienz. We stayed there in June and are going back in September, partly as a base for the Grossglockner.
 
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