If not now, then..... when?

[HPPants]

Day 30
Sautens, Austria to Salouf, Switzerland

Two things developed last night.

First, in an unusual turn of events, we started talking about lodging for tomorrow night. For several weeks now, we have been remembering how much fun we had at “Mama’s Place” in Salouf, Switzerland. We enjoyed it so much that a few days ago, we started thinking about maybe winding up back at Mama’s place on our way back. Well – here we are within a day’s ride to Mama’s. Last night we checked and were disappointed to see no vacancies there. But through the magic of Whatsapp and Google Translate, I was able to message Mama and she said we could all stay in an apartment within the building. She even agreed to set up a fold up bed in the living room so that everyone got their own room. Well – tonight we go back to Mama’s.

Secondly, Bryan has been watching his tires for a while now. As many of you know, the last 25% of the tread goes the fastest. The rear tire was well past the wear bar indicators, and the front is not far behind. Even though we only have a few days left, those tires just won’t make it. This morning, Bryan and I were able to find a tire dealer about 30 minutes away that had tires in stock to fit the GS1300. So – we left in drizzling rain this morning and all rode to the tire place. There was some back and forth between the tire dealer, Knofpt Rental, and the owner of the motorcycle. We don’t pay for tires – that’s included in the rental. Anyway – they got it worked out and Bryan and Marissa are getting new tires.

Greg and I decided to take off and we agreed to meet Bryan and Marissa at Mama’s this evening.

The rain quit and now it looks like it’s gonna be a pretty nice day! Greg is leading me once again – so far so good!

The meadows in the mountain valleys are gorgeous. The grass is swaying in the breeze – it’s mesmerizing.

Riding along the lakeshore of Lago di Recia – this is great stuff.

The only thing left from the village that was flooded with the creation of the lake was the old church bell tower.

We had a simple lunch at the lakeshore and continued back toward Switzerland (again).

Kurviger for the win again, man. These goat trail roads were just amazing.

Greg’s feeling it too – I can tell.

Greg remembered about a monastery in the area from a previous trip. We were ready for a stop anyway – so we walked around it. If I’m not mistaken, this was built like 900 years ago.

I suppose a trip to Europe wouldn’t be totally complete without seeing at least one old church.

Now getting a bit later in the afternoon, so we are making miles heading toward familiar roads.

Seeing this twice is NO problem.

Bryan and Marissa got the tires installed and they actually beat us to Mama’s by a little bit. I guess they didn’t stop as much as we did. Regardless, Mama and family were happy to see us, and the feeling was definitely mutual.

Happy Hour was fun this evening.

Our friend the Chef came to talk to us again. His pasta is delicious – I can taste the egg in it.

I can’t remember what this dessert is, but trust me, it was very good.

We stayed at the table for quite a while cutting up with Mama and the others. It’s hard to describe how it was – she is just such a lovely woman. I liked her from the minute I met her.

Tomorrow, our route takes us decisively north. Greg didn’t have to tell me, I knew it. In the morning, we will be leaving the Alps and heading to flatter ground.

Passes today
Fuela Pass
Recia Pass

 

[HPPants]

Day 31
Salouf, Switzerland to Triberg, Germany

I slept very well last night and my fold up bed was surprisingly very comfortable. The room has windows along 2 walls (corner of the building) and the cross breeze was delightful this morning. I packed up my things a bit early and walked a block or two before breakfast while the others were stirring.

I remember thinking how much I like this little village. Honestly, there’s not much to like – the whole thing can’t be more than a few blocks long. It’s clean and the buildings are well maintained. But I’ve seen that in a hundred villages over the past month. Why does Salouf, Switzerland feel so ….warm to me?

Then it dawned on me. I know someone that lives here.

Mama and Papa had another delicious breakfast prepared for us, and while I was still reasonably full from last night’s banquet, I ate everything and I made sure she saw me eat it. Mama has a degree from the University of Hard Knocks, and she finished with honors. Her hospitality was wonderful. She was happy to serve us, and show us a little bit of her life while doing it. I’ve been thinking about returning to parts of what I saw on this trip with my wife. That would be a different kind of trip but indeed, she would enjoy it just the same. I think if we do that, we will stay one night in Salouf.

After breakfast, we all saddle up and start riding south.

I guess in reality, we were riding about the same pace we always have, but spiritually, the vibe felt different. At least for me, my mind was dragging a bit. I could see that valleys were getting wider, and the mountains were getting more sparce.

It was inevitable. We were leaving the Alps. A month is a LONG time to spend in one general region on vacation. In that light, we’ve seen so much. We have immersed ourselves in it, and soaked it up from all angles.

But in spite of that, every chance I got, I held the group for yet another photo-op just so I could look back and get one more glimpse of it.

Par our normal routine, we stop mid-morning for coffee and pastry near the Austrua/Germany border. While stopped, I looked at the map and realize that we are very close to the country of Liechtenstein. I must admit that I’m a geographic idiot. I can’t say that I’ve ever heard of Liechtenstein. It’s an extremely small country that isn’t known for ….anything. But we are so close, and for posterity’s sake, I insisted that we go there. Bryan whipped up a detour that took us across the river into our 7th country for the trip, we ran through the Capital city, and then took a left and crossed the river back into Austria, all in less than 30 minutes! Well, to me, it counts. I’ve been to Liechtenstein.

Soon after that, we cross into Germany, and that defined it formally for me, as mountains gave way to grassy, forested hills.

This picture was the next in my Camera Roll. I’m ashamed to admit it, but I don’t remember who ordered it, or when he, she, or we ate it.

Greg’s route takes us further south and we are now seeing grasslands for the first time in a long time.

And any place you find grasslands, you are sure to find farmland. The wheat here is looking very good.

Amber waves of grain…..

I love to watch food grow, and we had plenty of that kind of entertainment today. Wheat, potatos, swiss chard, corn, apples, pole beans, and sunflowers.

The back roads take us to the Rhine River at this gorgeous covered bridge.

And shortly after that, we pull into the town of Triberg, Germany.

Triberg is known for it’s Coo Coo clocks.

We got rooms up on the hill, and then rode back to town for simple dinner.

Followed by another rendition of Musical Desserts!

Perhaps if we ever start a band, this could be our album cover shot, eh?

The vibe here is a little touristy, but this evening its quite peaceful.

We’ve had the ride of a lifetime. 29 days of riding, mountain passing, seeing, overlooking, eating, breathing, and laughing.

But, it’s time.

 

[the Ferret]

Hey we went to that coo coo clock store on our tour I'm pretty sure. They had a LOT of coo coo clocks in there.

 

[Flexit]

We've been to, or through Triberg many, many times.... but did you know that the source of the Danube is located about 8km from Triberg? We didn't until last year!

 

[the Ferret]

Here's where we went on our "Best of Europe" Tour in case anyone is curious

Pic taken from front of souvenir T shirt lol

 

[ChucksKLRST]

Speaking of the Black Forest, if you are a bicycle enthusiast and also have a knack for wood working this was found on our excursion into the Black Forest, during our Rhine River Cruise back in 2023.

 

[FastST]

I like that their roads markings are as broken lines - pass (or overtake) if you can. Unless it is solid white. Whereas in the US is mostly double yellow and can be even on straight roads. More or less varies by state though.

 

[HPPants]

Day 32
Triberg, Germany to Heidelberg, Germany

Today is our last riding day. We’ve had such good fun but I miss my wife and it’s time to head toward the barn. The breakfast provided by our host was good.

When one finds himself in the land of Cuckoo Clocks, one must see Cuckoo Clocks and you might as well start with the world’s largest Cuckoo Clock.

We paid the nominal fee for the self-guided tour that includes a peek inside the workings.

How do you make such a large wooden cog? Lamination, apparently

As luck would have it, we were up there at the top of the hour, and got to see the birdie do its thing.

After the tour, we visited a clock store and it was impressive to see the intricate workmanship of the local craftsman.

Now running almost due north, we found the Black Forest and stopped at small park to have lunch by the lakeshore.

And from there it was a short ride to the Autobahn, where we hopped on the motorway and zipped it to Heidelberg. That was not the finest 45 minutes of the trip. It rained pretty hard and without my rain gear, I got wet. Between showers and with favorable traffic conditions, we did wick it up to around 160 kph (100 mph)

At that speed, in the second to left lane, we were basically keeping up with traffic. Porches, Mercedes, Beemers, and the like were passing us at a buck fifty or faster quite regularly. Honestly, with my fat bags in the wind, it wasn’t as fun as I imagined it would be. Oh well – I did it.

And soon enough, we existed the motorway and we were back at Knofpt, safe and sound.

4522 miles for the 30-day journey equates quite conveniently to right at 150 miles a day. We surely aren’t going to win any long-distance riding contest with that number. But it felt about right for us, and considering the type of roads and the scenery, I think that was the perfect mix. It doesn’t matter, obviously, it was what it was.

It’s only about 3 pm, and we had plenty of time to take our accessories off the motorcycles, and start packing. Chris Knofpt had a Pow Wow with us and declared that we would have to be ready to go to the airport very early in the morning. I got everything nicely pre-packed in my hostel room, took a shower, and had a bier in the courtyard. It was nice to just sit quietly and reflect on what just happened.

The others got themselves together and we walked a few blocks to have dinner.

One more celebratory dessert.

And then we walked back to Knofpt for a relatively early turn in.



Day 33
Heidelberg, Germany to Lafayette, LA

The flight home was uneventful. We had been hearing about new TSA rules and Customs rules that would be causing huge delays in the international flight process. Poppycock – From the second I stepped into the Frankfurt terminal until I was sitting at my gate was about 23 minutes. Likewise in Houston, I zipped through customs, bag re-check, and TSA in about 40 minutes flat. That left me with about 3 more hours to wait, and I must admit, I succumbed to the bastards and gave them $28.00 for a pulled pork sandwich. Oye.

None the less, I arrived home on time early in the evening. It’s worth mentioning that when traveling overseas, your flight timing both ways can have a big effect on the Jet Lag. Going over there, I like to arrive in the morning, and I use my exactment to push through the fatigue on day 1, and then turn in early and by Day 2, I’m better. Coming home, I like to arrive early evening, and then just take a shower and give it up for bed. Again, the next morning I’m pretty good.

I was obviously elated to see my wife and indifferent about the fact that apparently she did quite well for herself while I was gone – LOL. We talked for a while and it was nice to just be together. I told her that if I let myself get into the mindset, it almost feels like the whole thing was a dream. My imagination remembers vividly one of the hundreds of high points of the trip, and then I find myself questioning it. Was it really that amazing? Was I really there?

Then I just pull up the photo app on my phone, randomly scroll through any of the pictures, and sweet reality sets in. Yes Virgina, there is a Santa Claus. Yes Dr. Seus, I do like Green Eggs and Ham. And indeed Mr. Disney, a dream is a wish your heart makes when you're fast asleep.

But let me tell you something, Cinderella. If you work hard, play your cards well, and wish upon the right star …..

……your dreams will come true.

Stay thirsty, my friends…..


Post Trip Analysis:

1. Budget: The numbers below reflect what I actually spent on the trip.

Where possible, we shared a room or apartment or house among the 5 of us. Sometimes that meant getting 2 “rooms”, sometimes 3, and once or twice, 4. We chose independently owned lodging from Booking.com. All places were clean and plenty comfortable enough for us – none were 4 or 5 star accommodations. Just basic lodging.

I only “cooked” a meal for us twice. A few other times, we ate prepared food (Charcuterie, etc) from the grocery. Breakfast was included with our lodging probably 60% of the time. Otherwise, we ate at a local restaurant wherever we were. On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the most expensive restaurant anyone could imagine, I’d say overall, we chose 4-7.

The moto rental includes transfers to and from Frankfurt airport (1 hour each way), all moto insurances, supplemental personal medical insurance, 2 nights stay before we departed, and 1 night stay upon our return.

Flight: $1,639.00
Motorcycle Rental: $5,860.00
Lodging (30 nights total) $2,367.00
Food (Restaurant, alcohol, Groceries) $2.771.00
Fuel $ 860.00
Medijet membership $ 378.00
Garmin Europe GPS Maps $ 100.00
International Driver License $ 10.00
Cell Phone Plan $ 20.00
Miscellaneous $ 400.00

Total $14,405.00

I felt your gasp. But before you dismiss this as ridiculous, answer this question for yourself: Where are you gonna get what you just read for about $450.00 a day?

1. To RENT or to SHIP? That is the question.

In lieu of renting a motorcycle, another option would be to ship your bike over there and then ship it back. As with everything, there are trade-offs. For me, the biggest challenge is getting my bike there in time for the trip. Knofpt of course can handle this, but I’d have to get my bike to Orlando, FL (1,000 miles from home) in October. Build a crate, and then it goes. Now, it gets there when it gets there, and a multitude of issues (weather, mechanical, customs, paperwork, etc) can easily prevent the bike from getting to its destination on time for the trip. Then you run the risk of having to deal with damage to the bike in shipping. Insurance is different over there, so you have to jump through that hoop. And I have to dedicate at least one day of my vacation to re-crating the bike for return shipment. And of course, by the time its all over, I’m without my bike or the better part of a year. In terms of cost, honestly, for a month rental, it’s pretty much a wash. Like Greg, if I did this every year, or at least 3 times, then I’d have a bike over there and store it at Knofpt. Yearly storage is reasonable ($400-ish Euro per year). Moto insurance over there is a piece of cake – you activate it when you ride it, deactivate when you are not. But I probably would just bike a bike over there and then get it to Knofpt, rather than go through the shipping process. Your mileage may vary.

1. General Comments, Thoughts, and Recommendations

You could spend 6 months in the Alps and still not see it all. On the other hand, I can’t see going there for less than 2 weeks. The guided tours that are 10 days or less – they must be just touching the surface. If you plan being there at least 3 weeks, you will have time to ride, time to stop and see, and time for unforeseen issues (weather, mishaps, etc)

I planned for riding in temperatures from about 40 degrees and raining on up. In reality, I brought more riding gear than I needed. If going during the month of June, you need to be prepared for upper 40s, and you likely won’t see much below 50 except in the highest elevations for a short time earlier in the day. I brought my textile riding jacket and rain gear (moto Frogg Toggs). Ideally, as with any moto-tour, if you have Gortex riding gear with good vent zippers, then you don’t have to deal with stop and go in the rain. It worked out fine for me, and the others were patient with me in this regard.

I brought string plugs for flat tires. One of us had a compressor. I brought a “party pack” of typical stuff I use at home: tie wraps, gorilla tape, wire, wire nuts, Velcro, a few nuts/bolts/screws, etc. I had some very basic tools, but one of us packed a tool roll and that proved useful and helpful for making simple adjustments and repairs. I packed a couple of rags and a small can of chain lube.

I didn’t get any foreign currency before we left. My credit cards (you need at least 2) both had zero international transaction fees. My debit card has reasonable ATM fees, and only ONCE did I need local currency. Everyone takes the credit card, seemingly. I used the ATM twice – found a local bank (the airport will rip you off).

I bought an E-sim for my cell phone as a backup (it’s cheap), but my Verizon International Service was TERRIFIC everywhere we went. Frankly, I found the service to be better than many places in the states.

Europe communicates messages with Whatsapp. Install it and learn to use it before you go. Regarding lodging, booking.com is absolutely necessary – Europe doesn’t use the other services (Expedia, hotel.com, etc) very much, if at all.

You MUST have an International Driver’s license to operate any motor vehicle in the EU. You can get it at AAA (the travel service). It’s a simple process with minimal fee and no test. The EU recognizes it as a universal form of identification. They do NOT recognize your State driver license.

The total travel length for the trip was right at 150 miles per day average. This is a good expectation for daily planning purposes. Some days we rode longer, others shorter. If you take the motorways, you can eat up the miles. But the motorways are not much fun, IMO.

I can’t stress this enough – check your riding gear THOROUGHLY before you leave. I bought new riding pants, but didn’t pay close attention to my helmet padding, and it was worn out. A 30-day ride is a LONG ride – your gear will be taxed. And of course – make sure you have a LEFT and a RIGHT boot – lol.

I packed too much clothes, as usual. I brought 2 sets of long base layers and only wore the lighter set one day. I brought only dry fit base layers and shirts. I had a total of 5 sets of these (1 to wear, 4 in luggage) and I washed my daily set every day in the hotel sink. In reality, I could have gotten away with at least 1 less set, possibly 2.

Perhaps the biggest takeaway I can offer you is congruent with my feelings on ANY motorcycle tour. Resist with all of your being to make plans. Do not focus on being somewhere at any particular time or date. Have a very general plan like: “I want to get to the Dolomites” or “I want to ride Stelvio while I’m in Italy”. But don’t go any further than that. I know that it can be daunting not knowing where you are going to sleep tonight. It sure was for me the first couple of days I did it (decades ago). But you are going to find a place to stop, and it’s not going to take that much effort. And I know that fear of missing out on that special place. But there are so many places anywhere you go, and the fact of the matter is this: It’s ALL good. On the motorcycle, especially with friends, EVERY bit of it is good. So if you miss this, you’ll see that, and you’ll just have to trust me, that will be just as good as this. You can’t be lost if you don’t know where you are going.

Doing it this way frees your mind. The part of your brain that had to be dedicated to the plan and the logistics is now free to get in the real game, the adventure. And for me anyway, that makes the ride a LOT better.

 

[the Ferret]

Absolutely awesome report HPPants. Thanks so much for taking the time to do it. Brought back many fond memories for me. Hard to believe it's been 16 years now since we were there.

Another anecdote from our trip, since you mentioned the Autobahn and the rain. One day we were on the Autobahn it was also raining. Remember me mentioning the crazy Aussies? Well, I was running 106 mph on our BMW R1200R and the two Aussie couples on GS BMWs came flying past us, like we were tied to a pole, with one of the Aussie wives pounding on her husband's back with both fists in a fit of terror LOL.

Your price list actually sounds really reasonable for a month on the road. Ours, for 2 people, was only about 1/3 less and that was 16 years ago.

 

[ChucksKLRST]

Day 32
Triberg, Germany to Heidelberg, Germany

Today is our last riding day. We’ve had such good fun but I miss my wife and it’s time to head toward the barn. The breakfast provided by our host was good.

When one finds himself in the land of Cuckoo Clocks, one must see Cuckoo Clocks and you might as well start with the world’s largest Cuckoo Clock.

We paid the nominal fee for the self-guided tour that includes a peek inside the workings.

How do you make such a large wooden cog? Lamination, apparently

As luck would have it, we were up there at the top of the hour, and got to see the birdie do its thing.

After the tour, we visited a clock store and it was impressive to see the intricate workmanship of the local craftsman.

Now running almost due north, we found the Black Forest and stopped at small park to have lunch by the lakeshore.

And from there it was a short ride to the Autobahn, where we hopped on the motorway and zipped it to Heidelberg. That was not the finest 45 minutes of the trip. It rained pretty hard and without my rain gear, I got wet. Between showers and with favorable traffic conditions, we did wick it up to around 160 kph (100 mph)

At that speed, in the second to left lane, we were basically keeping up with traffic. Porches, Mercedes, Beemers, and the like were passing us at a buck fifty or faster quite regularly. Honestly, with my fat bags in the wind, it wasn’t as fun as I imagined it would be. Oh well – I did it.

And soon enough, we existed the motorway and we were back at Knofpt, safe and sound.

4522 miles for the 30-day journey equates quite conveniently to right at 150 miles a day. We surely aren’t going to win any long-distance riding contest with that number. But it felt about right for us, and considering the type of roads and the scenery, I think that was the perfect mix. It doesn’t matter, obviously, it was what it was.

It’s only about 3 pm, and we had plenty of time to take our accessories off the motorcycles, and start packing. Chris Knofpt had a Pow Wow with us and declared that we would have to be ready to go to the airport very early in the morning. I got everything nicely pre-packed in my hostel room, took a shower, and had a bier in the courtyard. It was nice to just sit quietly and reflect on what just happened.

The others got themselves together and we walked a few blocks to have dinner.

One more celebratory dessert.

And then we walked back to Knofpt for a relatively early turn in.



Day 33
Heidelberg, Germany to Lafayette, LA

The flight home was uneventful. We had been hearing about new TSA rules and Customs rules that would be causing huge delays in the international flight process. Poppycock – From the second I stepped into the Frankfurt terminal until I was sitting at my gate was about 23 minutes. Likewise in Houston, I zipped through customs, bag re-check, and TSA in about 40 minutes flat. That left me with about 3 more hours to wait, and I must admit, I succumbed to the bastards and gave them $28.00 for a pulled pork sandwich. Oye.

None the less, I arrived home on time early in the evening. It’s worth mentioning that when traveling overseas, your flight timing both ways can have a big effect on the Jet Lag. Going over there, I like to arrive in the morning, and I use my exactment to push through the fatigue on day 1, and then turn in early and by Day 2, I’m better. Coming home, I like to arrive early evening, and then just take a shower and give it up for bed. Again, the next morning I’m pretty good.

I was obviously elated to see my wife and indifferent about the fact that apparently she did quite well for herself while I was gone – LOL. We talked for a while and it was nice to just be together. I told her that if I let myself get into the mindset, it almost feels like the whole thing was a dream. My imagination remembers vividly one of the hundreds of high points of the trip, and then I find myself questioning it. Was it really that amazing? Was I really there?

Then I just pull up the photo app on my phone, randomly scroll through any of the pictures, and sweet reality sets in. Yes Virgina, there is a Santa Claus. Yes Dr. Seus, I do like Green Eggs and Ham. And indeed Mr. Disney, a dream is a wish your heart makes when you're fast asleep.

But let me tell you something, Cinderella. If you work hard, play your cards well, and wish upon the right star …..

……your dreams will come true.

Stay thirsty, my friends…..


Post Trip Analysis:

1. Budget: The numbers below reflect what I actually spent on the trip.

Where possible, we shared a room or apartment or house among the 5 of us. Sometimes that meant getting 2 “rooms”, sometimes 3, and once or twice, 4. We chose independently owned lodging from Booking.com. All places were clean and plenty comfortable enough for us – none were 4 or 5 star accommodations. Just basic lodging.

I only “cooked” a meal for us twice. A few other times, we ate prepared food (Charcuterie, etc) from the grocery. Breakfast was included with our lodging probably 60% of the time. Otherwise, we ate at a local restaurant wherever we were. On a scale of 1-10, with 10 being the most expensive restaurant anyone could imagine, I’d say overall, we chose 4-7.

The moto rental includes transfers to and from Frankfurt airport (1 hour each way), all moto insurances, supplemental personal medical insurance, 2 nights stay before we departed, and 1 night stay upon our return.

Flight: $1,639.00
Motorcycle Rental: $5,860.00
Lodging (30 nights total) $2,367.00
Food (Restaurant, alcohol, Groceries) $2.771.00
Fuel $ 860.00
Medijet membership $ 378.00
Garmin Europe GPS Maps $ 100.00
International Driver License $ 10.00
Cell Phone Plan $ 20.00
Miscellaneous $ 400.00

Total $14,405.00

I felt your gasp. But before you dismiss this as ridiculous, answer this question for yourself: Where are you gonna get what you just read for about $450.00 a day?

1. To RENT or to SHIP? That is the question.

In lieu of renting a motorcycle, another option would be to ship your bike over there and then ship it back. As with everything, there are trade-offs. For me, the biggest challenge is getting my bike there in time for the trip. Knofpt of course can handle this, but I’d have to get my bike to Orlando, FL (1,000 miles from home) in October. Build a crate, and then it goes. Now, it gets there when it gets there, and a multitude of issues (weather, mechanical, customs, paperwork, etc) can easily prevent the bike from getting to its destination on time for the trip. Then you run the risk of having to deal with damage to the bike in shipping. Insurance is different over there, so you have to jump through that hoop. And I have to dedicate at least one day of my vacation to re-crating the bike for return shipment. And of course, by the time its all over, I’m without my bike or the better part of a year. In terms of cost, honestly, for a month rental, it’s pretty much a wash. Like Greg, if I did this every year, or at least 3 times, then I’d have a bike over there and store it at Knofpt. Yearly storage is reasonable ($400-ish Euro per year). Moto insurance over there is a piece of cake – you activate it when you ride it, deactivate when you are not. But I probably would just bike a bike over there and then get it to Knofpt, rather than go through the shipping process. Your mileage may vary.

1. General Comments, Thoughts, and Recommendations

You could spend 6 months in the Alps and still not see it all. On the other hand, I can’t see going there for less than 2 weeks. The guided tours that are 10 days or less – they must be just touching the surface. If you plan being there at least 3 weeks, you will have time to ride, time to stop and see, and time for unforeseen issues (weather, mishaps, etc)

I planned for riding in temperatures from about 40 degrees and raining on up. In reality, I brought more riding gear than I needed. If going during the month of June, you need to be prepared for upper 40s, and you likely won’t see much below 50 except in the highest elevations for a short time earlier in the day. I brought my textile riding jacket and rain gear (moto Frogg Toggs). Ideally, as with any moto-tour, if you have Gortex riding gear with good vent zippers, then you don’t have to deal with stop and go in the rain. It worked out fine for me, and the others were patient with me in this regard.

I brought string plugs for flat tires. One of us had a compressor. I brought a “party pack” of typical stuff I use at home: tie wraps, gorilla tape, wire, wire nuts, Velcro, a few nuts/bolts/screws, etc. I had some very basic tools, but one of us packed a tool roll and that proved useful and helpful for making simple adjustments and repairs. I packed a couple of rags and a small can of chain lube.

I didn’t get any foreign currency before we left. My credit cards (you need at least 2) both had zero international transaction fees. My debit card has reasonable ATM fees, and only ONCE did I need local currency. Everyone takes the credit card, seemingly. I used the ATM twice – found a local bank (the airport will rip you off).

I bought an E-sim for my cell phone as a backup (it’s cheap), but my Verizon International Service was TERRIFIC everywhere we went. Frankly, I found the service to be better than many places in the states.

Europe communicates messages with Whatsapp. Install it and learn to use it before you go. Regarding lodging, booking.com is absolutely necessary – Europe doesn’t use the other services (Expedia, hotel.com, etc) very much, if at all.

You MUST have an International Driver’s license to operate any motor vehicle in the EU. You can get it at AAA (the travel service). It’s a simple process with minimal fee and no test. The EU recognizes it as a universal form of identification. They do NOT recognize your State driver license.

The total travel length for the trip was right at 150 miles per day average. This is a good expectation for daily planning purposes. Some days we rode longer, others shorter. If you take the motorways, you can eat up the miles. But the motorways are not much fun, IMO.

I can’t stress this enough – check your riding gear THOROUGHLY before you leave. I bought new riding pants, but didn’t pay close attention to my helmet padding, and it was worn out. A 30-day ride is a LONG ride – your gear will be taxed. And of course – make sure you have a LEFT and a RIGHT boot – lol.

I packed too much clothes, as usual. I brought 2 sets of long base layers and only wore the lighter set one day. I brought only dry fit base layers and shirts. I had a total of 5 sets of these (1 to wear, 4 in luggage) and I washed my daily set every day in the hotel sink. In reality, I could have gotten away with at least 1 less set, possibly 2.

Perhaps the biggest takeaway I can offer you is congruent with my feelings on ANY motorcycle tour. Resist with all of your being to make plans. Do not focus on being somewhere at any particular time or date. Have a very general plan like: “I want to get to the Dolomites” or “I want to ride Stelvio while I’m in Italy”. But don’t go any further than that. I know that it can be daunting not knowing where you are going to sleep tonight. It sure was for me the first couple of days I did it (decades ago). But you are going to find a place to stop, and it’s not going to take that much effort. And I know that fear of missing out on that special place. But there are so many places anywhere you go, and the fact of the matter is this: It’s ALL good. On the motorcycle, especially with friends, EVERY bit of it is good. So if you miss this, you’ll see that, and you’ll just have to trust me, that will be just as good as this. You can’t be lost if you don’t know where you are going.

Doing it this way frees your mind. The part of your brain that had to be dedicated to the plan and the logistics is now free to get in the real game, the adventure. And for me anyway, that makes the ride a LOT better.

Thank you for the great ride along. Brought back many great memories of my times in Europe both on the bike, the river or in the car, with family or Solo. Life, age and family health issues will prevent me from traveling over seas anytime in the near future, so I really cherished your pictures and write up. Been to many of the places you rode to / thru, and some not. Your epilog of comments, recommendations, and pricing are right on.

 

[Moto-Charlie]

Thanks for sharing your Alps motorcycle trip. I enjoyed reading your detailed travelog and appreciated your writing style - great pictures too.

I think your average of 150 miles/250 kms per day is would I would expect. As you noted a lot of your time was spent on narrow twisty roads where the speed limits are 30 - 50 mph and the terrain often does not even allow for that. Add in stopping for photos, desert samplings, sightseeing, etc. and you get the average you experienced.

Total $14,405.00

I felt your gasp. But before you dismiss this as ridiculous, answer this question for yourself: Where are you gonna get what you just read for about $450.00 a day?

Your costs were also right in line with what I would have expected. If you back out your airfare cost, Medijet and phone service it looks like you averaged a little over $400/day (approx. $408). That is approx. what I spend when I'm on my own.

Motorcycles are significantly more expensive to rent than cars, perhaps because they are perceived to be more dangerous and/or easier to damage. Insurance comprises 15% - 17% of the cost of the rental bikes I use. My wife and I rented a BMW 430i convertible for 2 weeks this past June. It cost 1/3 of what a BMW R1300RT would have cost to rent. Some hobbies are more expensive than others

 

[ddemair]

That was a fun "ride-along". Thanks.

 

[FastST]

Thanks for the great trip report!

Just my personal take:

Flight: $1,639.00, Motorcycle Rental: $5,860.00 and Food (Restaurant, alcohol, Groceries) $2.771.00 - are higher than normal in my view. But it's just me.

You MUST have an International Driver’s license to operate any motor vehicle in the EU.

I have never had an international driver's license. My NJ license was always enough. From what I know, the international driver's license needed if you're from none-English speaking country so they would be able to read it in English.

 

[HPPants]

Thanks for the great trip report!

Just my personal take:

Flight: $1,639.00, Motorcycle Rental: $5,860.00 and Food (Restaurant, alcohol, Groceries) $2.771.00 - are higher than normal in my view. But it's just me.


I have never had an international driver's license. My NJ license was always enough. From what I know, the international driver's license needed if you're from none-English speaking country so they would be able to read it in English.

Knofpt told us that the Intl license is required. It's an internationally recognized form of identification. They told us we would only need it if we were pulled over by law enforcement while on the motorcycle. We were specifically told our passport would not be sufficient.

As for the cost, welcome to considerable inflation. The last time Tammy and I were in Italy/France was in 2019. Things have gone up considerably and specifically Switzerland is extremely expensive. Were it not for Switzerland, my fuel, grocery, and lodging cost would have been much less.

Also - I purchased my plane ticket on March 1. I had been watching prices for a while, as many "watch dog" entities (Capital One, Trip Advisor, etc) were telling me to hold, expecting a reduction in cost in April. I was seeing about $1,600.00 for the ticket since Christmas, 2025. As we know, the Iranian war started February 28. That did it for me - I knew fuel cost would be skyrocketing so I pulled the trigger the next day. For giggles, about 4 days later, I checked the cost - $2,075,00 - 25% increase.

Flying from my hometown (LFT) drives up the cost of ANY flight about $100 - $250.00. If I would have driven to Houston (3.5 hours), the ticket would have been MUCH cheaper. Or even New Orleans (2 hours). About 5 years ago, my wife and I decided that unless the difference is ridiculously stupid, we are going to fly out of our hometown. By the time you factor in the cost to drive there, parking, and the fact that you have to allow LOTS of time for a flat tire, interstate traffic, vehicle accident, etc - we just give them the few bucks difference and don't worry about it.

 

[Flexit]

I have never had an international driver's license. My NJ license was always enough. From what I know, the international driver's license needed if you're from none-English speaking country so they would be able to read it in English.

I like your unspoken presumption that all European police/traffic officials can read/speak English, thus if your licence is in English then that's OK!!

You can drive/ride in the UK on a US licence for up to 12 months. Some mainland European countries require non-EU licences to be accompanied by an IDP ie Italy, some recommend that you carry one alongside your US licence. Ultimately, for the cost, why not have one? Carrying the correct paperwork can ease things along if you are stopped for roadside checks.

British riders are nortorious for advising each other that they don't REALLY need to carry driving licence, vehicle logbook, proof of Insurance etc..... 'you'll never get stopped blah, blah blah'. On our recent Baltics trip, we were stopped twice in Poland for routine checks (and we ride a nice shiny tourer at a sedate pace). On both occasions I was able to produce all my documents and we went on with no hassle..... strangely enough on each occasion they didn't ask to see our passports. We had similar checks in Italy the previous year!

A bonus of the UK driving licence and V5 (logbook) is that they still follow the standardised pattern of the EU, no matter what language they are in the sections and codes are the same, hence the reason we don't need an IDP when travelling in the EU.

 

[FastST]

I like your unspoken presumption that all European police/traffic officials can read/speak English, thus if your licence is in English then that's OK!!

That's right. All international licenses are in English. And for that reason.
I was pulled in Prague (riding on tram rails ) and in Switzerland checkpoint. My American license and passport were good enough.

 

[ChucksKLRST]

I like your unspoken presumption that all European police/traffic officials can read/speak English, thus if your licence is in English then that's OK!!

You can drive/ride in the UK on a US licence for up to 12 months. Some mainland European countries require non-EU licences to be accompanied by an IDP ie Italy, some recommend that you carry one alongside your US licence. Ultimately, for the cost, why not have one? Carrying the correct paperwork can ease things along if you are stopped for roadside checks.

British riders are nortorious for advising each other that they don't REALLY need to carry driving licence, vehicle logbook, proof of Insurance etc..... 'you'll never get stopped blah, blah blah'. On our recent Baltics trip, we were stopped twice in Poland for routine checks (and we ride a nice shiny tourer at a sedate pace). On both occasions I was able to produce all my documents and we went on with no hassle..... strangely enough on each occasion they didn't ask to see our passports. We had similar checks in Italy the previous year!

A bonus of the UK driving licence and V5 (logbook) is that they still follow the standardised pattern of the EU, no matter what language they are in the sections and codes are the same, hence the reason we don't need an IDP when travelling in the EU.

what is this V5 (logbook) that you talk about.

 

[Moto-Charlie]

Knofpt told us that the Intl license is required. It's an internationally recognized form of identification. They told us we would only need it if we were pulled over by law enforcement while on the motorcycle. We were specifically told our passport would not be sufficient.

I also tell my tour members that the only time they will need an Int'l Drivers's Permit is if you get stopped by the police (and/or in an accident). Having said that I have been stopped twice in the last 5 years (once in Italy, once in Austria) and both times the police looked at my IDP and then asked for/used my NH license to write up the ticket.

An interesting side note is that on both occasions I got caught up in riding at a fun pace with Italian and Austrian riders who had passed me, and I then tagged along with. The Italian stop included 5 other bikes with Italian plates, me with a Swiss plate and a separate rider with German plates. After some discussion the police office let the Italians go and only issued tickets to me and the German rider. In Austria the 3 Austrians were moved on and the 3 of us with Swiss plates got tickets. Sometimes it seems to help if you're a local.

Things have gone up considerably and specifically Switzerland is extremely expensive. Were it not for Switzerland, my fuel, grocery, and lodging cost would have been much less.

Prolonged time in Switzerland will definitely impact your average cost. I base in Switzerland and we spend a fair bit of time in Switzerland as well as transiting it to get to Austria, France. Italy and elsewhere, so the blended average daily cost is $20 - $40 day higher than if you spent all your time in Austria or Italy. I personally think the extra cost in Switzerland is OK because you have great roads (and road conditions), scenery, cleanliness, access to just about everywhere, etc.

I was seeing about $1,600.00 for the ticket since Christmas, 2025.

I used to enjoy flying but over the years, airports have become way more crowded, seats have become narrower, legroom more cramped, etc., so I try to fly direct whenever I can. For me the only way to do that is via Swiss Air from Boston to Zurich. Before COVID I could usually expect to pay $900 - $1,050 for the June dates and $700 - $800 for the September dates. I went solo during COVID and paid $550 in September.

In 2022 when full travel started back up the June and September fares were at pre-COVID levels. They have gone up every year since then. I paid $1,700 for my June trip and $1,500 for my upcoming September trip. Swiss Air is the only direct route, and their planes are always full, so they charge what they want. They claim they have reduced capacity due to pilot and plane shortages, but they have been saying that for the last 3 years. There are other airline options with 1 or 2 stops, but they aren't always a lot cheaper. The key seems to be to monitor the prices regularly, because they do have times when they dip significantly for 24 to 36 hours before popping back up.

 

[FastST]

I guess you right with the air tickets.
We bought tickets to Geneva in January for July and all direct flights were well over $1k.
So we paid $860 to fly on TAP with layover in Porto. But it was a hustle and I said no more layovers for me.

I remember when the swiss frank was the same as dollar and even then Switzerland was more expensive. Now it is like 1:1.25 which makes everything it even more expensive for us.

HPP next time maybe ride the Spanish/French Pyrenees and Picos de Europa. From Barcelona to San Sebastian (the tapas are like nowhere else), Bilbao- Potes and all around the Picos..
Mountains not as tall as the Alps but still beautiful passes and the nature.

 

[Flexit]

what is this V5 (logbook) that you talk about.

UK Vehicle registration document. It is created by the licensing authority on initial registration of the vehicle. Then stays with the vehicle for it's life, if you sell, or dispose of the vehicle you are required to submit the details of the new owners on a tear off slip, a new V5 is then issued to the new registered owner. Example photo's attached. The style of the V5's has recently changed, but the basic details have stayed the same.