Ignition Switch Removal

Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
81
Location
Tampa, FL
Bike
ST1300
Anyone remove their ignition switch assembly? I tried almost everything and I still can't get the switch off the bike.

Two bolts hold the switch in place. They look like 6 mm allen heads: a 6 mm allen wrench grabs in the clockwise direction, but when turned counterclockwise, the wrench just slips. The parts fische identifies these bolts as, "bolts, one-way" which makes sense for the ignition switch, but how do I remove them? I've attached pictures of the bolts and switch underside. On the closeup picture you can see that I tried a bolt remover (unsucessfully). No mention in the shop manual of special screws or of tools needed to remove them.

I also removed the electrical assembly plastic cover; it had two #10 security torx screws holding it on. Still can't remove the electrical assembly though, I can't grab the assembly.

Anyone done this job?
 

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Joined
Sep 17, 2007
Messages
989
Location
Newport News, VA
Bike
2006 ST1300A
I have never attempted this. After looking at your photos, I'm wondering if you could use a drill bit large enough to remove the bolt heads. Then, after moving the switch out of the way, grab the remaining portions of those bolts with a pair of Vise-grips. Obviously, you will need new bolts, but they wouldn't have to be the one-way variety.
 
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David P
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
81
Location
Tampa, FL
Bike
ST1300
Ignition Switch Removal, Part Deux

I removed my ignition switch yesterday after only a minor flustercluck. The switch is held on the bike by two special security screws. Since I didn't have the proprietary tool required to remove these screws, I had to use alternate methods: a Craftsman bolt removal tool and an impact wrench. When rotated CCW, the bolt removal tool bites into the screw head; the impact wrench provided enough force to stop the bit from just grinding off the head.

The electrical portion of the switch is held on the tumbler mechanism by three #10 Torx security screws. Two of these screws also hold the plastic cover and are easy to remove with the switch on the bike, but the third screw is more difficult. It holds the base to the tumbler and is almost underneath the wiring harness. In hindsite, I could have probably removed the last screw without removing the switch (if I had known it was there).

I've attached pictures of the ignition switch with and without base assembly, along with the #10 security Torx screws and the two special security screws. You can see how I chewed up the screw heads during the removal process. I've ordered a new base assembly (35101-MCS-G01) courtesy of Ron Ayers and $41.21. Hopefully that will solve the bike's electrical problems.

Side note: there was no rubbing damage to the ignition switch wiring harness. When I get the new switch I'll disassemble the old one and post pictures of the interior.
 

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David P
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
81
Location
Tampa, FL
Bike
ST1300
The igntion switch has been replaced and functions normally. Now we'll see if that was the problem (bike shutdown while running) or if the switch was fine and there's another issue somewhere else.

Lessons learned from the switch replacement:
  1. Make sure you mark/record/remember how the switch wire was routed. After 3+ weeks I couldn't quite remember. The service manual helps out (look in section 1 for wiring and hose routing drawings).
  2. The security screws are a major PITA. Be prepared for them or have a professional do it. Replace them with standard allen-head screws unless you're worried that a thief will disconnect your ignition switch at night.
  3. Have a #10 security Torx bit to remove the electrical assembly (if necessary). Well worth the trip to Harbor Freight to buy a set of them.
 

rulbe

Site Supporter
Joined
Dec 2, 2005
Messages
518
Location
Bay City, MI
Bike
Africa Twin AS
STOC #
7159
David

Did you inspect the Red / White wire on the left side wiring connector around where the quartet harness plugs in? Bone's bike quit running in East St Louis we wiggled the wires around the ignition switch and got the bike running shut it off and the bike wouldn't restart. Once we removed the left side fairing we found the terminal corroded and broken. Not certain this is your problem but wanted to give you a heads up about this connector if you continue to have further problems.

Randy
 
Joined
Dec 3, 2008
Messages
1
Location
Aust
Re: Ignition Switch Removal, Part Deux

Thanks to all who have posted their trials in removal of the ignition switch which made my removal so much easier. I had already removed the inner plastic so as to reduce heat build up which it did so step 1. is out of the way.
Step 2 was to remove the throttle cable gaurd and then get one 12'' 1/2'' extension reducing to approx 6'' 3/8'' extension down to 6mm hex.
Step 3 cover the front guard with a blanket & bring the extensions up from the bottom inserting the 6mm hex into the base of the 8mm one way bolts.
Step 4 using a heavey hammer hit the end of the extension to make sure the 6mm hex is well placed & any aluminium binding released.
Step 5 attach 1/2'' ratchet & with upward pressure from the bottom so as to ensure proper seating carefuly undo the 8mm bolt.

Both of my bolts came out without a problem - the switch can be dropped out the bottom for further work as described in previous posts.

It was then a simple job to fully strip the lock down away from the bike.
 
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