Im using the best oil out there, prove me wrong.

One of the problems with friction modifier additive, especially on motorcycle is they can make lack enough friction to roll over the roller bearing enough to keep them round. As I have said before some additives won't hurt your engine. A good brand of oil will work just great as long as you use the owners manual recommendation.
Oh crap, I got involved with an oil thread, ummmm never mind

Sand is technically a friction modifier additive too! All depends on your desired outcome.
 
Uses Putoline motor oil but also other products from their range, easily available in the nearest store (5 minutes drive), good products and nice price. Not the most expensive but not the cheapest either :thumb:

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The real question, avocado oil versus honey? Well, thankfully Bikes and Beards compared the two. Do you think they were sick of the oil debates as well? :roflmao:

 
When I was a wee lad (like when I was 17-> 44 years ago) we had a Corolla in the family, an old one (1976 model year)- ran fine but had a piston slap. Added some ‘Motor Honey’ and quieted it down quite a bit (in retrospect, not sure if thickening the oil that much was a good idea, but I assume the clearances were a lot greater back then)- good car, couldn’t be killed mechanically, but rust ultimately did it in.
 
Funny story about oil , a friend long time ago "like 1978" asked me how much his 65 Pontiac with a 283 took for engine oil, than asked how much for the transmission ( 2 speed Powerglide). You probably by now guessed what the next conversation was about, no Fred you got the numbers backwards, yeah he put 8 quarts of Oil in the engine, made one heck of a mess under the hood. From then on I told anyone asking about oil level to read their owners manual.
 
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There weren't too many '65 Pontiacs with 289s, if it was an Oshawa [Canadian] built GM, it would actually have been a chevrolet chassis [including drive train] with a Pontiac body
That car [base] would have had a 283 powerglide combination
If it was an American Pontiac, the base engine would have been a 389 2BBL with a three speed ST400 switch pitch automatic which was faster than the '66 Canadian 396 4BBL T400 [in the first couple blocks] but that's another story
Anyway, getting back to oil, when I got my XL600 it was a disaster the spacer plate and O Ring for the dual sequential carbs was blasted out and you could barely kick it over; gurgling and oil everywhere; in the airbox,
Got it home and checked the manual [I did... I do sometimes... :laugh:] said it takes 2.1 quarts
Drained the crankcase and oil reservoir - five litres and a bit was in there
Probably a fate that beset many of these bikes, The RFVC dry sump engines on these bikes have two oil pumps, one for scavenging and pumping back into the frame reservoir the other I'm not sure what it does
There's a dipstick at the top of the frame reservoir to indicate the level The only problem is that with many of these bikes, they only need to be a few years old and sit for any length of time before the check valve at the base of the reservoir either fails or never worked in the first place, and slowly passes the oil back into the [supposed to be] dry sump crankcase until the levels equalize
Rider comes along, does the right thing [wrong thing], checks the oil, tops it up before kicking it over, and over, and over...
Moral of the story, if it's low on oil start it up, let it run for a while then check the oil. Sounds like the script to one of the Rust Valley episodes
 
... start it up, let it run for a while then check the oil...
Dunno, maybe I'm old... passed my car license in '84, motorcycle permit in '92, and all literature and training lessons mentioned to check the oil level on a vertical surface, with a warm engine, that has been stopped for aprox 5 minutes... (like after refueling at the pump... conveniently do gas stations not only provide vertical surfaces, they also sell engine oil... kind of a pattern there...)

But yeah... these days there probably is 'an app for that'... :confused:
 
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