Incandescent 12 V and LED 12 V Test Lights

Andrew Shadow

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In another thread that @Flapajack resolved this morning he mentioned that the initial test that her performed to check his fuses indicated that they were all good when one fuse actually was not.
So as not to muddle the content of his thread I started this one to ask something that comes to mind every time that I use my 12 V incandescent test light.

In his thread he did not mention whether or not he had used a multi-meter to test the fuses the first time or if he had used a test light. I will take this opportunity to make the point that in my opinion using a test light is a far better option than using a multi-meter to test live circuits. Multi-meters are good for testing how much resistance there is in a circuit but not very good for testing if there is a good solid circuit when performing a simple voltage check. Multi-meters need an almost insignificant amount of current flow to register that there is 12 volts present. Having 12 volts present does not mean that there is good enough conductivity to allow enough current flow to actually operate the electrical device that is downstream of the test point. If a multi-meter is going to be used a more accurate indication might be attained by checking for voltage drop as opposed to merely checking for the presence of voltage. A test light is much simpler and easier to use than doing voltage drop tests for basic circuit testing. A test light adds a load, as small as it is, to the circuit. This small load more often than not will cause the test light to burn dimly, or very dimly, if there is a connection but it is a bad connection with excessive resistance. This gives a good visual indication that not all is right with what is being tested.

Whenever I test electrical circuits the first thing that I do is connect my test light directly to the battery for two reasons. One is to make sure that the test light is working. The second is that it gives me a fresh visualization of how brightly the bulb burns when it is connected to a full 12 V and is not encumbered by excessive resistance. Having this fresh picture in my mind allows for easy recognition of when it is dimmer when testing elsewhere. If it is dimmer there is a reason for that.

So below is my question for @SMSW and @Larry Fine, and any other electrical experts on here.

I still have a typical old school 12 V test light that has an incandescent bulb. It has proven pretty helpful for indicating when there is a problem in a circuit because it will illuminate more dimly as explained above. I recently thought that I had lost it and was going to buy a new test light. Most of the new ones have LED bulbs in them. LED bulbs require an extremely small amount of current flow to make them illuminate, and I assume that they do not place as much of a load on the circuit as an incandescent test light does. This made me wonder if they would react the same way that a multi-meter does in that they would indicate the presence of 12 volts but not provide an indication that there may be excessive resistance in the circuit being tested. Most LED's either come on or they don't. Maybe I have that wrong and LED test lights do vary their intensity based on the current flow. I don't know as I have never used an LED test light. If they do simply either illuminate or don't illuminate I would prefer an incandescent bulb test light. Because I didn't know I was going to look to buy another test light that has an incandescent bulb.

P.S.
I found my test light and didn't have to buy a new one, so I never had to figure this out but I am still curious about it.
 
your reasoning is sound, but I don't know the answer to the question as to how much current a LED tester will draw compared to an incandescent bulb. LEDs can be made in versions that draw reasonably high current, so it may be that the newer ones will perform similarly in that regard.

when I test fuses I pull them and visually inspect, then measure the resistance with a multimeter. If its not a dead short then it gets replaced.

I think I've heard before that its also possible for fuses to be conducting normally at room temp, then after heating up with current flow they will open up, something that even a test light probably wouldn't detect.
 
The answer depends on whether the LED has a load resistor to place a significant load on the circuit.

One simple test would be to place the tester in series with a small bulb and see if the bulb lights up.
 
So below is my question for @SMSW and @Larry Fine, and any other electrical experts on here.

I found my test light and didn't have to buy a new one, so I never had to figure this out but I am still curious about it.
For more than a few tests on line voltage systems (household wiring) I often used a so called 'pin socket' - a light bulb socket with two 6" wires coming out of the rubber housing. I screwed in an incandescent lamp. Like you said, the brightness would tell something about the circuit that the electronic 'tic' tracer (an inductive pick up that 'ticked' and flashed a light in the presence of voltage) could not. Under certain circumstances the tic tracer would alert on both the neutral and hot (ok, grounded conductor and hot) and was not as useful as my test lamp. When testing a shorted circuit, my test lamp would illuminate (it provided a load) and not blow the fuse/breaker.

Alas, Andrew, I retired before the LED testers came out...or I was too old school with my cheap test lamp to even look at them. In fact, my neon tester (two probes connected to a 2'+ long wire w/ a neon lamp) is still my tester of choice for line voltage systems.

I too have one of those old ice pick w/ an incandescent lamp automotive (12v) testers. And I still reach for it.

Sorry I cannot answer your question. It is often difficult to discover if there is a significant load (resistor) in line w/ the LED testers...but I've not looked at any of them.
 
Same reasons I still cling to my ol' analog clamps/multimeter... giving you a better "idea" in some situations, as the flickering numbers of its digital counterpart...
Especially in the 12V DC automotive world the old incandescent test light still has its definite place...
CAN bus (or any digital com) is a different animal, requiring Oszilloskopes and such...
 
Oszilloskopes and such...
I know the German language doesn't use the letter "C" unless its a word borrowed from another language. So I wasn't surprised when I googled the inventor of the CRT oscilloscope and he was German.
 
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