Jump Starter

v8-7 said:
The one I bought is only 12000, but that should be plenty for a 1 time start. I'm sure that's why it is much cheaper .

Now, if I can only figure out how to plug in my electric blanket to it..
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Just FYI:
Through a bit of creative and telling the truth in a way you won't realize marketing...

The 12,000 mah is measured at the 5v USB port, not the 12v out port.
 
I have a Battery Tender dongle with an SAE plug that allows plugging in the Battery Tender, but also allows me to run an air pump.

Has anyone customized one of these jump starters for simple SAE plug connection to their Battery Tender dongle? If so, it would certainly be better than removing the battery cover to connect the automotive-type battery clamps.
 
Tom, the 16 ga. wire to the battery tender lead can't handle the kind of amperage it takes to crank a bike. Even if you put a 30 amp fuse in, it will blow. You should have at least a 10 gauge wire IMHO......
You can do what I did, run 10 gauge to a point under the seat and put a 50 amp connector on it, and I put a mating 50 amp connector on my booster cables, which are coiled up under the passenger seat and take very little room. I can boost someone's bike or receive a boost.
 

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RaYzerman said:
Tom, the 16 ga. wire to the battery tender lead can't handle the kind of amperage it takes to crank a bike. Even if you put a 30 amp fuse in, it will blow. You should have at least a 10 gauge wire IMHO......
You can do what I did, run 10 gauge to a point under the seat and put a 50 amp connector on it, and I put a mating 50 amp connector on my booster cables, which are coiled up under the passenger seat and take very little room. I can boost someone's bike or receive a boost.
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Looks like a nice setup. Did you buy a kit (that looks like a paired cable with heavy duty connectors). Where did you get it? What brand is it?
 
T_C said:
Through a bit of creative and telling the truth in a way you won't realize marketing...

The 12,000 mah is measured at the 5v USB port, not the 12v out port.
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The figure is a lot more useful for 5V because that's the port where you'll be drawing continuous current and, let's face it, most of the time it would be used for charging gadgets rather than jump-starting dead bikes.

The math for 12V isn't hard: The pack is 12 AH (1 AH = 1,000 mAH) at 5V, so if you convert that to watts, it's 60 watt-hours (WH). Take the watts back to current at 12V and it's 5 AH, or about a third of the capacity of the YTZ-14S on the bike. Figure the inrush current to get the starter moving is 60A. It's usually less once everything starts moving, but using that as the worst case gets you a theoretical five minutes of cranking time. You wouldn't get that in real life for a bunch of reasons, the biggest of which is that the parts of the jumper box can't dissipate enough heat to carry that much current for that long. But it's definitely good for the few short cranks it was designed to withstand.

--Mark
 
SMSW said:
Looks like a nice setup. Did you buy a kit (that looks like a paired cable with heavy duty connectors). Where did you get it? What brand is it?
Click to expand...

The jumper cables are a motosports set, 10 ga. wires. I just cut the clips off one end and installed the connector. The wires from the battery were some marine grade 10 ga. that a friend gave me, I just added the feed for my Eastern Beaver PC-8 fuse box and installed the connector. Terminals are soldered on. Connectors are from China (along with the weatherproof plug for safety reasons).
 
Anyone familiar with this one?
8000mAh Titanium Power Bank Jump Start

I saw it in Costco. It is nice and small and comes with a nice case and the price was decent. It is not the most powerful one that I have seen but it would be intended for emergency starting of the ST if ever I needed it so I don't need the most powerful one around. I not sure how they rate these things though. It says 8000 mAH at 3.7 V. It also says 200A - 350A jump start current. If that is at 12V that is more than enough to start an ST. I assume that that rating is at 12V but I don't know. If they are rating that at 3.7 V as well what is that at 12V? Is it good enough to start an ST1300? If anybody has any opinions or comments on this one it would be appreciated.
 
The 8,000 mah rating is usally measered at 5v, as in the USB port. If they are saying 8 it's at 3.7v then that is the rating of the actual batteries inside, and I highly doubt it is. A single cell 9ah battery weighs in at least 170g, this thing only weighs 350g total. Measure the voltage at the 12v connector and you'll probably see 11.1v dc. 3 batteries in series. The 29.6 wh rating tells you the truth of capacity, 2.66 amp/hr cells. Probably 18650's. Now if you took the 3 cells out and hooked them up parallel you'd have 8,000 at 3.7 volt. But I don't see much use in that for the average consumer, they aren't cracking the cases open.

It's enough to start an ST, getting to the battery on the ST is it's own personaly joy.

PS The reason for the rating at 5v is said to be a way for users to gauge how many times they can recharge their phone/tablets. In this case it looks like you have 5,900 mah at the USB port, minus some for loss in conversion.
 
I just keep a spare Odyssey PC535 fully charged Replacement Battery in my Panniers. It weighs Just 12.0 lbs. and only costs $120. What can I say I Ride a Beemer. You should see how much space the Spare Final Drive takes up in the Other Pannier.
 
ST1300 Alicia said:
and only costs $120. What can I say I Ride a Beemer.
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LOL that explains the 'only costs' bit. And carrying a spare final drive? That is hardcore. (And possibly explained by riding a Beemer?)


What's the science behind these jump starters for 12V batteries? Are they actually starting the car (as in would the car start off of these without the car battery connected) or do they 'tickle' the car battery enough to start or do they share the starting load with the car battery?

As a ute I've had occasions where I'd try to start a car I 'flooded' until the solenoid chattered. I'd give up and wait and lo and behold the battery would spin quickly start the car and Bob's your uncle. So it would seem that a battery in otherwise decent shape wouldn't need too much coaxing to get under way.
 
I think that they're also using a Capacitor for that first pop when the Solenoid Engages and the Starter Motor starts turning.
 
No capacitor in the lithium jump packs (you'd need a BIG cap) and they are sharing the load with the on-board battery. Voltage on the lead battery drop as the charge goes, giving the battery a few minutes rest lets the acid do it's work and build up some more power. That's why a long slow draw can get more power out of a battery then a sudden discharge. If you flooded the engine and drained the battery, a few minutes would give time for the excess fuel to evaporate, making a very rich air mixture, and the battery could build up a little charge.
 
Finally had a chance to use my jump pack on one of my vehicles last week. Wife's Rav4 battery died suddenly. Connected my "Rugged Geek" jump pack and it easily started the car. Immediately ran over to Costco and luckily had 1 month left on the full replacement warranty.
 
T_C said:
It's enough to start an ST, getting to the battery on the ST is it's own personaly joy.
Click to expand...
After my experience w/ a dying battery at OHSTOC this past spring, I decided to remedy the hassle of getting into the battery for a jump start. I went to a local electrical wholesaler and bought 6' of #6AWG welding cable. This is extremely finely stranded cable and has very low resistance. I made two leads, each with an eye crimped to one end and a standard butt splice (essentially a copper tube) crimped to the other end. The eyes were bolted to the battery, one lead was painted red, and both were led under the seat/frame tube to the area under the pillion seat. I'd slipped one of those plastic protectors you find on fiberglass driveway markers over the end of the butt splicer, and wrapped a couple of layers of electrical tape over the bare metal.

If I ever need a jump, I'll pull the pillion, strip the tape off and clamp the jumper cables (prob. from a Lithium ion jump starter) to my 'jumper leads'. Of course, going through all these shenanigans ensures I'll never have to jump the bike again.
 
Just bought one last night. Guy at work came in on a new to him bike. Got busy talking and forgot to turn the key off. It started the bike first try right off the store shelf! Went home and topped off the charge.
 
I'm starting to feel Old Now "an Old VHS Tape". Really, I still use VHS Tape but they're getting a little Harder to Find.
 
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