Doing the maintenance on my newly acquired 07ST. I New front tire on change the oil differential oil needed to flush the brake system it's dirty and the cool its original at 12K. I started it up the day after I started getting the plastics off and I notice A puddle of coolant. Any ideas where I need to start looking when I get the other side off thanks preciate it
Just notice coolant Leak
- Thread starter Barry
- Start date
I forgot to include the puddle was next to the center stand and a cool it reserve was very low
Yup, follow the radiator hoses up to the thermostat housing. You will have to take the radiator off and drain the coolant. Many of us have had the original narrow hose clamps leak. Look w/ a good flashlight. You might search for the many other Coolant Leak threads on this website. This is a common problem w/ ST's. I'd suggest changing to another clamp style/system, such as Breeze clamps.
I didn't get to ride the bike very much because of the weather and the front tire was so worn out it was original. So I've been reading about the maintenance and some of the issues this motorcycle house do you think I should go ahead and change up the thermostat while I've got all the plastic off I believe it was Running well before thanks for the advice
SoCalST8
Vendor
Replaced flattened/leaky water pump rubber seal.
I would without hesitation. If original, it is 11 or 12 years old and getting in there is a couple of hours of work. But, fair warning, I tend to be one of those guys who replaces parts prophylactically in anticipation of their imminent failure. Besides, I don't like doing things (draining the coolant) twice.
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Replace the thermostat housing O-ring part #91361-MCS-A10, tighten the clamps 1/2 to 1 turn you can reach with the radiator off and the thermostat housing exposed, replace the coolant and move on.
This is a 12,000 mile bike. There will be suggestions from doing nothing to repainting the entire motorcycle. ST1300s commonly leak coolant and it is easy to fix for the cost of the O ring and coolant.
This is a 12,000 mile bike. There will be suggestions from doing nothing to repainting the entire motorcycle. ST1300s commonly leak coolant and it is easy to fix for the cost of the O ring and coolant.
As soon as I have time to pull the right side of the body plastics off I'll try track in the water leak down. Thanks for the tip.
Replaced flattened/leaky water pump rubber seal.
CYYJ
Michael
Hello Barry:
Below is a photo of a 'constant tension' hose clamp. This type of clamp is an upgrade from the standard clamp installed by Honda. The primary advantage of a 'constant tension' clamp is that it maintains a constant tension on the hose despite the considerable temperature variations that occur in the engine area. A secondary advantage of this particular style of clamp is that the inside surface of the clamping area is smooth (none of the serrations used to tighten the clamp come in contact with the coolant hose).
When installing this type of clamp as a replacement for the OEM clamps, correct torque on the clamp is critical. To maintain equal expansion & contraction with temperature variations, the clamp needs to be torqued to 90 inch-pounds (10 N·m).
These clamps are available in a variety of sizes, both individually and in boxes of 10. A box of 10 contains enough to replace all the clamps on a ST and have a few left over. They are often listed on eBay or Amazon. The size you want is "SAE 12".
Michael
Breeze Constant Tension Hose Clamp
Below is a photo of a 'constant tension' hose clamp. This type of clamp is an upgrade from the standard clamp installed by Honda. The primary advantage of a 'constant tension' clamp is that it maintains a constant tension on the hose despite the considerable temperature variations that occur in the engine area. A secondary advantage of this particular style of clamp is that the inside surface of the clamping area is smooth (none of the serrations used to tighten the clamp come in contact with the coolant hose).
When installing this type of clamp as a replacement for the OEM clamps, correct torque on the clamp is critical. To maintain equal expansion & contraction with temperature variations, the clamp needs to be torqued to 90 inch-pounds (10 N·m).
These clamps are available in a variety of sizes, both individually and in boxes of 10. A box of 10 contains enough to replace all the clamps on a ST and have a few left over. They are often listed on eBay or Amazon. The size you want is "SAE 12".
Michael
Breeze Constant Tension Hose Clamp
Hello Barry:
Below is a photo of a 'constant tension' hose clamp. This type of clamp is an upgrade from the standard clamp installed by Honda. The primary advantage of a 'constant tension' clamp is that it maintains a constant tension on the hose despite the considerable temperature variations that occur in the engine area. A secondary advantage of this particular style of clamp is that the inside surface of the clamping area is smooth (none of the serrations used to tighten the clamp come in contact with the coolant hose).
When installing this type of clamp as a replacement for the OEM clamps, correct torque on the clamp is critical. To maintain equal expansion & contraction with temperature variations, the clamp needs to be torqued to 90 inch-pounds (10 N·m).
These clamps are available in a variety of sizes, both individually and in boxes of 10. A box of 10 contains enough to replace all the clamps on a ST and have a few left over. They are often listed on eBay or Amazon. The size you want is "SAE 12".
Michael
Breeze Constant Tension Hose Clamp
I've got all the plastics off ran the bike for 5 minutes it was at 3 bars no water leaking that I can see. I didn't pull the tank up I'll tell you one thing when the Garage is a cold to start the bike up for 5 minutes It makes one heck of a heater. . I did find the main problem with the horn there's no wire running to the horn and I can't find a A wire or connection for the horn
My leaks were all just loose hose clamps. Tighten them all and it went away. But I have replaced all the thermostats in all three ST1300s I have owned.
ToddC
ToddC
I bought a bunch of the constant pressure breeze clamps,,, and they are still in my parts box. I decided not to use them,,, because the hoses are all grooved by the narrower original clamps. If/when I put on new hoses,,, I will likely use the breeze style then,, on the new rubber. Anyway,,, I just tightened up the narrow clamps,,, and all has been good for 2 seasons (44,000kms) now since I experienced some cold start dripping. That is my experience so far,,, Cat'
ps: I still get some minor seepage at the drain hole,,, same as the last photo. But nothing that wets the floor,,, or that does not seem normal for a ST13. It uses maybe a couple oz's a month of coolant.
ps: I still get some minor seepage at the drain hole,,, same as the last photo. But nothing that wets the floor,,, or that does not seem normal for a ST13. It uses maybe a couple oz's a month of coolant.
CYYJ
Michael
Questions have been asked about the torque value of 90 inch-pounds (10 N·m) that I gave for the Breeze constant-tension hose clamps in post #9 above.
Despite considerable research, I could not find a torque value anywhere on the manufacturer's website. I did, however, find torque values for these specific clamps published on several distributors' websites. I have attached below an image of a document specifying torque values.
Three values are given - maximum expansion, maximum contraction, and equal expansion or contraction. Based on my experience using this type of clamp in aviation applications, I think that the value for 'equal expansion or contraction' is the most appropriate specification to use on our motorcycles, but having said that, I would welcome any thoughts from forum members who have a metallurgical engineering background and can comment on differential temperature expansion characteristics between the stainless steel Bellville springs in the hose clamps and the (primarily) aluminum castings of our motorcycle engines.
For those who are curious about how these constant-tension clamps work, Wikipedia has a good article describing them - click here.
Michael
Despite considerable research, I could not find a torque value anywhere on the manufacturer's website. I did, however, find torque values for these specific clamps published on several distributors' websites. I have attached below an image of a document specifying torque values.
Three values are given - maximum expansion, maximum contraction, and equal expansion or contraction. Based on my experience using this type of clamp in aviation applications, I think that the value for 'equal expansion or contraction' is the most appropriate specification to use on our motorcycles, but having said that, I would welcome any thoughts from forum members who have a metallurgical engineering background and can comment on differential temperature expansion characteristics between the stainless steel Bellville springs in the hose clamps and the (primarily) aluminum castings of our motorcycle engines.
For those who are curious about how these constant-tension clamps work, Wikipedia has a good article describing them - click here.
Michael