sometimes they are on, sometimes off, even with running engine. Also recently I have problems with starting engine, need to push start button several times to crank engine. Are those circuits somehow related or I need to check ground wire for headlights?
Just noticed, that my headlights working intermittently (st1100)
- Thread starter Alberto
- Start date
The starter switch works both. It disconnects the headlight while cranking the engine.
thanks Larry, will start working on the starting switch!
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Check your main battery connections first.
Then spray some electrical contact cleaner into the high beam switch and the starter switch.
Those are the easy things to start with.
Then spray some electrical contact cleaner into the high beam switch and the starter switch.
Those are the easy things to start with.
I'm pretty sure about battery connectors, because everything else works fine and after few trials engine starts normally. If you say that headlight circuit also goes inside of starter switch, that explains that I start to have both problems simultaneously.
Most likely a sticking starter switch. If it's not returning it will cut the headlight circuit.
Upt.
Upt.
Yes, if you look at diagram above, blu/wht headlight wire gets power from blk/red wire when start-button in UP position. When you push DOWN start-button, this disconnects headlight circuit and tuens lights OFF to conserve power for starter.
Then power to trigger starter-solenoid comes from kill-switch on blk wire. Start-button then sends this across to yel/red wire to activate starter-solenoid.
Sometimes, wiring & soldering are perfectly Ok. But it’s switch
contacts that are corroded and burnt, not letting power across. Clean with this stuff.
Last edited:
thank you for detailed explanation, going to clean and lubricate switch. Corrosion is a primary suspect I think - living on the humid area on sea side for 1.5 years made all contacts in fuse box covered with white oxide
. Need to clean everything.
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Not on an EC spec ST1100... no "hardwired" headlights there...
Instead an independent [OFF/P/LOW] slider above the starter button...
The OP shows Georgia; I took it to be in the USA.
Plus, an EC-spec bike wouldn't have this problem.
that's right ) it is a tiny country lost in mountains in between Russia and Turkey. I checked my ST by vin code, it is made for Canadian market though.
Hound
Cave Canem
It might be a tiny country to you, but it's still more than three times bigger than the one I live in! I wonder how a Canadian-spec ST ended up in that part of the world.
As the smart people have already said, give your switchgear and any ground points you can access a good clean.
As the smart people have already said, give your switchgear and any ground points you can access a good clean.
if you talk about UK, not sure that Georgia is bigger that it )
Going to inspect switch unit as soon as rains stop.
Didn't focus on that, I always considered UK as a one country, sorry
And thanks for dry weather, waiting impatiently)
Spraying the starter switch pod (with a plastic safe) contact cleaner as previously suggested is the very first place I'd start. Quick and easy – if that's the problem it's cleared up immediately. At your leisure you can take the switch apart and give it a good cleaning and light lube. That should get you a lot of trouble-free miles from that particular problem.
There are other causes that further troubleshooting might reveal but the Run/Stop pod is a common issue. My ST buddy had the same thing happen. He has to ride at night and has three deer kills to his credit so light is important. From info I learned at ST-O he opened/cleaned/lubed the pod and all was well.
There are other causes that further troubleshooting might reveal but the Run/Stop pod is a common issue. My ST buddy had the same thing happen. He has to ride at night and has three deer kills to his credit so light is important. From info I learned at ST-O he opened/cleaned/lubed the pod and all was well.