Knock, knock......

[gcos]

It looked like that to me also - you might have to have it sort of in place before you move the engine in.
As I said, I just didn't want to go through the hassle of trying it and then having to pull the engine again if I was wrong.

Just to remind you in case you missed it, the alternator can be removed or installed with the engine in the frame, although you do need to remove the tank and swing arm. Maybe that does not suit at this time.
GC

 

[Uncle Phil]

Just to remind you in case you missed it, the alternator can be removed or installed with the engine in the frame, although you do need to remove the tank and swing arm. Maybe that does not suit at this time.
GC

I knew that () but I am wondering about installing it WITHOUT removing the swing arm.
That's the big question when reinstalling the engine.
You can get to it and the three bolts easy enough with the swingarm and engine in place.
My hunch is you can but you would have to have it somewhat in place in the frame before you installed the engine.
The engine would go back in 20 times easier if the alternator was not installed.

 

[PaulE]

Better late than never.
It always bothers me when someone posts a problem on a forum, accepts a ton of advice and then disappears, never to be heard from again.
So this is my final post on the outcome of the "Knock, knock" .
Over the winter I removed the engine, tore it down and measured all crank and big end bearing clearances. All the bearings measured within spec.
Only the #2 big end bearing measured at .002" clearance, the upper end of the spec. Since everything else looked fine I was determined to change something before I put it all back together and #2 bearing was the only thing that wasn't perfect. The good folks at Silver's Spares found the size I needed in Belgium and shipped it to me. With the new bearing installed I "closed up the motor and re-installed it" (7 words, 3 months).
I set all the pilot screws at 2 turns out and synced the carbs. Also tossed all the emissions stuff and the vacuum fuel valve.
I started it up in May and let it warm up (remember the knock only appeared on a fully warmed up engine). No knock. A few weeks later I rode it about 30 kms, no knock.
So i guess I'm still not really sure what caused the knock, bearing or carb problem. But it's quiet now, smooth and powerful, I love this bike.
Thanks to all of you who offered advice. Special thanks to Uncle Phil, and the BIG GUY, Allen Millyard.
Ride safe!
Paul

 

[Uncle Phil]

Glad you got it sorted.
Having done two engine deinstalls/installs I know how much work that is by itself!

 

[PaulE]

Oh, I almost forgot to mention, it's nice that I learned so much about the bike by doing this. But I will NEVER, EVER do this again.

 

[draser]

the BIG GUY, Allen Millyard

I believe he's had a few U-tubes out with a similar (ST1100 engine knock) problem... fairly recently... never mind, just went through the posts and saw the vid.

Glad it's fixed, happy riding!!!

 

[Uncle Phil]

I have all of Allan's ST1100 videos downloaded as they are a wealth of information for the ST1100 as I happen to have a few ...

 

[Oldbikefixr]

But I will NEVER, EVER do this again.

That's what I told myself part way through my first rebuild. Now I feel that way partway through any engine rebuild. Seems I was just fooling myself.

 

[Al st1100]

I would rule out, for now, rod or crank bearings. Usually bearings will make noise on initial start up till the oil builds pressure. It also would get louder at higher rpms. I would take it for a good ride and reevaluate. My old st made strange noises after sitting all winter. I think it's normal.