Looking to buy an FJR but it has no center stand.

Dave,
If I ever get my hip joints replaced, I’ll quit lowering bikes.

John
John,

Height challenged and a medical condition are not necessarily intertwined. Two of my riding buddies got hips done in the last few weeks. They are doing almost unbelievably well - it's almost plug and play - up and around in a day or so and both expect to be released to ride in weeks. One rides an RT and the other a GS, neither lowered.
 
Given that simply shortening the legs won’t work, MN I wonder if it could be cut up and rebuilt around the dog bone interference issues.

Have you test ridden the FJR?
I did not like it based on the bike’s noise and windshield noise and turbulence.
A lot of ST riders have happily moved to FJRs.
Just met a guy that didn’t like his FJR sold it. By chance he bought an ST1100 and loves it.
 
Bill, if you need it to stay lowered, then you can find a centerstand for reasonable and have it shortened.... if that's getting close to $200, then why not go with the T-Rex. Your only other option (for maintenance) is to run the back wheel up on a 2x6 and use a standard centerstand.
The other usual thing done is the forks may have been raised 10mm or so in the triple tree to keep front reasonably level with the rear.
All easily reversed with the standard length dogbones and lowering the forks, it's an easy job.
There should be no interference with anything..... except a lowered bike will have less ground clearance to footpeg feelers and MAYBE the centerstand arm.
IF you find it is too low, you can also get a set of adjustable dogbones and put it where it best suits you.
Seats - Corbin is the lowest, Russell is the tallest.... that also can come into play.
IF you want to take this to the FJR forums, e.g., FJROwners, you can have lots of discussion and see what others have found with lowered FJR's.
 
I just took the lowering kit off my FJR and it was because I could not use the center stand without putting he back wheel up on blocks . Went back to the stock dogbones and the bike feels so much better to ride . My friend owned it and thought he would like to have it so he could flatfoot it . Much better now .
 
I don’t recall hearing yet about anyone wearing out an ST1300. We get tired of it or we wear out before that happens.
 
Another option: you could always get another center stand and have it cut to order and welded up. It would be interesting to know how the lowering kit (I didn't know there was one) interferes with the stand.

My preference is absolutely for a functional center stand of some sort over any external devices replacing and not augmenting it.

If I couldn't install one permanently because of the lowering kit then I'd fab one up if only for maintenance duty. But to that end more would need to be known about exactly why the factory stand had to be removed.

Or the OP may have ruled out a modified center stand for whatever reason and wants 'external' solutions.
 
Bill, if you need it to stay lowered, then you can find a centerstand for reasonable and have it shortened.... if that's getting close to $200, then why not go with the T-Rex. Your only other option (for maintenance) is to run the back wheel up on a 2x6 and use a standard centerstand.
The other usual thing done is the forks may have been raised 10mm or so in the triple tree to keep front reasonably level with the rear.
All easily reversed with the standard length dogbones and lowering the forks, it's an easy job.
There should be no interference with anything..... except a lowered bike will have less ground clearance to footpeg feelers and MAYBE the centerstand arm.
IF you find it is too low, you can also get a set of adjustable dogbones and put it where it best suits you.
Seats - Corbin is the lowest, Russell is the tallest.... that also can come into play.
IF you want to take this to the FJR forums, e.g., FJROwners, you can have lots of discussion and see what others have found with lowered FJR's.
The seller had the old center stand and when I checked the added dog bones interfere with the reinstalling of the center stand.
 
Bill, does Rose know about this? Does the FJR have places to mount spools?
Nice to hear from you Coop. In the last 15 years of retirement we have ridden 250,000 miles, so yes Rose does want us to have a touring bike.
We have checked out the 800 to 1000 cc bikes but they are not as comfortable for the passenger. We will still ride the ST until we find something else. Take care.
 
The centerstand has nothing to do with the dogbones..... perhaps post a pic of these dogbones as I can't understand why there would be any interference. Many have lowered FJR's and left the centerstand on or shortened it.
 
The centerstand has nothing to do with the dogbones..... perhaps post a pic of these dogbones as I can't understand why there would be any interference. Many have lowered FJR's and left the centerstand on or shortened it.
The dogbones on this lowering device are built like turnbuckles. I could not get the center stand bolt holes to line up. I also noticed that the bottoms of the dogbones left about 4" of clearance to the ground. We have some nasty speed bumps in the Okanagan.
 
The dogbones on this lowering device are built like turnbuckles.
I saw some similar ones for my VStrom. I bought the plain non adjustable ones that have a smaller profile. You might play around with the center stand and see if changing your style of bones to a fixed length one might solve your problem. It depends if the turnbuckle is the problem or the increased length of the bones.

IIRC, the ones for my Suzi came in various lengths to lower the bike 1/2", 3/4, 7/8, 1" or even more (we are talking about lowering the back and ignoring maximum recommended lowering for the moment) from at least three different manufacturers. You might consider a different length if it allows you to use the center stand.
 
Okay, I've got it all figured out. How many pounds (weight not money) do you think Rose can lift. Looking forward to your reply.
 
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