Loud clank when shifting into 2nd gear

cpugiu

I just need to know if a loud clank when shifting up into 2nd gear is normal. It just sounds like it is shifting hard into 2nd. Should I get it looked at?

Tom
 
Are you applying upward pressure to the shifter before shifting to preload it? I know I had problems when I first started riding my 1100 because I wasn't doing this. I would at times hit "N" rather than 2nd. Once I started preloading it the clunk and missed shifts are greatly reduced.
 
so I need to apply upward pressure before pulling the clutch?
 
+1
Also the false neutral between 3 and 4th or 4-5 (forget which) seems to happen when I get lazy and don't shift with authority.
 
I get it too, and it depends on my riding style and mood how much it bothers me. I have a 97 1100, and if I don't shift with authority, I slip into neutral from first to second all the time. Synth oil has helped a lot, as has keeping it filled properly (most people are tempted to over fill oil). This winter I'm pulling the clutch and the clutch spring, bleeding brakes and clutch, and doing a bunch of other preventative maintenance. I'm hoping some of that will further help with the problem.

So, to answer the question, it's not a huge problem, but it does annoy me, so I'm trying little things to make it better. I'm hoping not to have to get involved in the tranny, and I don't think that it'll come to that.
 
cpugiu said:
so I need to apply upward pressure before pulling the clutch?
Click to expand...

Yes, in fact if you apply pressure and cut the throttle it will shift into the next gear. No clutch required. You will get a clunk doing that but it you combine the slight upward pressure before pulling the clutch as soon as you pull it the bike should shift.

While I don't make all my shifts clutchless I do it from time to time when my left hand is occupied by doing something else like adjusting the GPS settings or something.
 
I would suggest the OP concentrate on preloading the shifter. This is what has been described as putting a slight upward pressure on the shifter with your toe right before you shift. When you pull in the clutch, it'll just click right into gear. It may take some practice. A clunk between 1st and 2nd is pretty normal, especially if your rpms are say 3K or below.
 
:07biker:I've noticed this too, sometimes I'll hit neutral when trying to shift into 2nd, and will have to cluth and hit the shifter a second time, sometimes it will really startle me, like when I'm in a turn starting off at an intersection, especially if I have pillion.

I've learned to slap it in there with deliberation, but I'm thinking my ST is still getting broken in, I have less than 500 mi total on mine.

thanks for that lesson on preloading, hadn't thought of that.

Another quirk, my ignorance, on the turn signal switch, all you have to do is punch it to reset it, you don't have to slide it to the side to turn off either left or right blinker, DUH!!

Wonder why I never picked up on that before? Thought I had read the Owner's Manual pretty well. hhhhmmm..
 
+1 on preload. Additionally, lower rpm shifts help as well. From time to time, I still have a grind or clunk but I can ride a 20 year old machine with a little more patience and have a smoother shift the next time. Mod
 
I don't know what rpm you are shifting at but you might try a little higher rpm before shifting. Just a thought.

Edit--Just saw Moddy's post. Might try that as well, but I believe higher rpm equals better smoother shifting.
 
How long has it been since you changed the oil?
How long has it been since you bled your clutch fluid?
Both are really easy to do, and will affect your shifting as well.
I've had several members tell me their bikes "Clunk" really hard into 2nd gear.
Usually changing the oil fixes that. If not, bleeding the clutch fluid does ;)
The last thing it could be, is a dirty and dry shifter linkage underneath the bike.
Peek down there and spray some lube on it.
.02

While I agree with preloading the lever before you shift, I also don't believe we should adapt how we ride the bike
when it could be fixed with regular service. Flame retardent suit on! And I'm not saying this to upset anyone.
 
Preloading the shifter is good technique. It's easier on the drivetrain as well as faster.
 
+2 on the preload.... but also maybe bleed out the clutch if not done in a while just in case.

As to me, I occasionally got a clunk when 1) being lazy on the shift 2) not wearing my thick shoes/hiking boots 3) bad foot positon....

When I get real lazy and throw on sneakers to run and get milk, I'd esp get the bad shift.... so change shoes, or check positon of your foot on peg.
 
dduelin said:
Preloading the shifter is good technique. It's easier on the drivetrain as well as faster.
Click to expand...

While there is nothing wrong with preloading the shifter. What I was thinking was a similar problem that alot of new GL1800 goldwing riders were having with their wings.
Alot of riders were bringing their bikes in with shift dog wear, complaining of tranny problems, clutch problems etc. What 99% of it turned out to be...The clutch lever setting, or clutch fluid being old.
While we don't have adjustable levers on our St's (unless you added one) the Wing folk were putting the lever in the position closest to the grip ("I have small hands") etc.
What they were in fact doing, was not engaging the clutch fully, then loading the shift lever, and jamming it into gear! This was causing alot of wear and or problems.
I also witnessed alot of shifting complaints go away with different oil and/or bleeding the clutch fluid.
I didn't mean to imply that anyone was using a wrong technique, just throwing some more info on what it could be.
More than a few times, when a wing came in with shifting problems, I simply put the lever back to the farthest position, and the shifting problem went away.
I have made several ST owners happy and gotten rid of the hard shifting and clunk, simply by bleeding the clutch.
I've found MY bikes shifted better, longer with HDEO rather than the Mobil 1 M/C synthetic I used for a while.
.02
 
If you preload the shifter don't do it too soon or too hard. It causes excess wear. Only take the slack out.
 
Igofar said:
While there is nothing wrong with preloading the shifter. What I was thinking was a similar problem that alot of new GL1800 goldwing riders were having with their wings.
Alot of riders were bringing their bikes in with shift dog wear, complaining of tranny problems, clutch problems etc. What 99% of it turned out to be...The clutch lever setting, or clutch fluid being old.
While we don't have adjustable levers on our St's (unless you added one) the Wing folk were putting the lever in the position closest to the grip ("I have small hands") etc.
What they were in fact doing, was not engaging the clutch fully, then loading the shift lever, and jamming it into gear! This was causing alot of wear and or problems.
I also witnessed alot of shifting complaints go away with different oil and/or bleeding the clutch fluid.
I didn't mean to imply that anyone was using a wrong technique, just throwing some more info on what it could be.
More than a few times, when a wing came in with shifting problems, I simply put the lever back to the farthest position, and the shifting problem went away.
I have made several ST owners happy and gotten rid of the hard shifting and clunk, simply by bleeding the clutch.
I've found MY bikes shifted better, longer with HDEO rather than the Mobil 1 M/C synthetic I used for a while.
.02
Click to expand...
I can't speak to your experience with training motorcycle owners but if you practice good shifting technique you don't have to pull in the clutch all the way to upshift. By preloading the shift lever just the act of unloading the gears when you roll off selects the next gear and the clutch does not have to be pulled in more than a third of the way and if you are really good, not at all. The next gear snicks in place, it's fast, and it is easy on the entire drivetrain. It's fast for acceleration but what is of benefit in this context is the play of transmission gears, U-Joint, and final drive is all taken up during the act of upshifting and you do not give the drive train time to get out of synch and allow play to develop. There is naturally occurring play in the gearbox and we have the extra play from shaft drive to contend with. When that play or gear lash is taken up is when you get a clunk shifting.

Of course if the motorcycle is in disrepair from lack of maintenance or improper lubricants that is a different story.
 
I am somewhat confused by this thread. My 2005 is, by far, the smoothest shifting bike I have ever owned. I do not have to preload the lever to up shift.

I have heard, but cannot confirm, that the the ECU increases the rpm slightly on all upshifts to speed match the gears. Results....very smooth upshifts!

Perhaps an oil change would help this issue. It might also be a clutch disengagement problem. I sometimes upshift w/o the clutch & do not experience a clunk.
 
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