Low MPG puzzle

The previous owner had the bike for many years. I guess maybe he saw an indication of fairly expensive brake service on the horizon and decided to sell. The bike is loaded with aftermarket upgrades, including a service manual that has been used based on dirt smudges and bookmarks in it.
I had a scary experience on one of my old Goldwings, so I am inclined to just tear down all calipers and go through steps to ensure nothing is overlooked.
Just ordered a new SMC from Ron Ayers, $192.27. If it turns out I don't need it, it will be an insurance policy going forward.
I can justify the cost of recovery from a safety perspective.
 
5thMLC said:
I haven't done anything yet, the likelihood of SMC being the culprit of dragging breaks seems to be high enough to anticipate having to replace it, so I am just gathering info at this point.
Tearing down all calipers is what I envision having to do to make sure nothing goes unchecked, replacing anything that needs replacing before bleeding the system.
Click to expand...
Have you had a look "through" the rear wheel to make sure the rear pads are correctly fitted?
When I first got my bike the rear pads had been fitted crooked (the non-pin end was only half in the slot it was supposed to be in) and this caused dragging. worth a check.
 
Like this. Note the gap between the clip and the recess in the bracket (just above where the brake pad tab end is seated). This was on its way to being not OK.


P1020435.jpg
 
I determined that pads on the bike are not OEM, they stop the bike without any noise or jerking, but the brakes on both wheels are dragging.
Walking a bike backward has resistance, and when the wheels are spun, they make less than a full turn. Nothing indicates that pads are misaligned on any of the calipers.
After riding for an hour or two, all rotors are warm from friction but not so warm to cause a burn to the touch, because there is a danger of fast-progressing wheel lock-up, I am no longer riding. Working on resolving issues, gathering parts, etc.
 
jfheath said:
As mentioned before - when you remove the pads, find out how much spin you get in the wheels without them in place.
Click to expand...

Also, before removing the pads, could back off the bleeders on the caliper to make sure all pressure on the pistons is gone and see if it affects the spin.
 
Unfortunately, hopes of finding adequate space to do the required service did not work out, and I am growing more frustrated over it by every passing day, so I am bailing out.
My desire for a cheap thrill didn't kill me, while I didn't know what I didn't know, now that I do know, I am done.
The bike is up for sale. I canceled parts I ordered, looking to cut my losses and move on.
Got a trailer?, Check out the "Bikes for sale" section and come see me.
 
I solved my problem, sold (ahem, gave away) my ST at a loss just to get it out of my hair. I was at one point committed to dealing with dragging brakes, so I ordered a new set of brake pads and SMC.
I wanted to sell sealed OEM parts locally, but no one has stepped up in over a week now. I asked a local wrench to change my thermostat, and he quoted me 4 hours of labor at $140/hr, which was the last straw, a ripoff.
I had no place to do the job myself, so I just cut my losses and got a 2017 Triumph Trophy SE with 17K and some change on the clock.
I figured you must pay to play, so stepping up in value should give me more to enjoy and less crap to deal with.
Look for a full set of sealed OEM brake pads, SMC, and driver pegs rubber inserts in the "for sale" section.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0300.jpg
    IMG_0300.jpg
    178.3 KB · Views: 13
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom