Mystery drain screws

BigBrakes

BigBrakes

Joined
Aug 3, 2026
Messages
30
Age
47
Location
ireland
Bike
honda st1100
Hi anyone happen to have a clear image of the carb drain screws supposedly access through the little pull out plastic tab on side of fairing starting left believe I can see a Gold straight head of a screw head but not getting a bite properly with my 30 mm screwdriver which I grinded bit of also as very hard to get a small head long screwdriver?

Also what are the chances of me getting away with it starting as it been 18 mnts probably since run tank emptied about a year ago?
 
BigBrakes said:
Also what are the chances of me getting away with it starting as it been 18 mnts probably since run tank emptied about a year ago?
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You will never know until you try. I'd suggest draining the old gas from the tank and replacing it with new gas. Then fire it up.
 
did you run it dry 18 months ago? I'm guessing no because you're asking about drain screws.

FWIW, I bought a bike that someone let sit for about a year, maybe a little longer, and the carbs had issues. So at 18 months its a crapshoot.
 
Warning - those drain screws are made of cheese - if they have never been opened you will probably strip the heads before you can get them open. ;)
If it has sat for 18 months with gas in the carbs, high chance the idle speed jets are clogged - required pulling the carbs anyway.
 
dwalby said:
did you run it dry 18 months ago? I'm guessing no because you're asking about drain screws.

FWIW, I bought a bike that someone let sit for about a year, maybe a little longer, and the carbs had issues. So at 18 months its a crapshoot.
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Can't Remember what I had for Dinner last night let alone did they Run dry back spline ran dry lack of moly unfortunately didn't know about checking greesing when I changed oil/filter & final drive oil same time first shaft owned! any pics anywhere?
 
the service manual recommends a 14" long screwdriver for accessing the drain screws. At 300mm (which is what I assume you meant by 30mm??) you're a bit short.

What most of us find after owning these things for a while, its often easier to just start ripping bodywork off the bike to get better access to things. It looks like a lot of work at first, but after you do it a few times it becomes fairly simple and quick.
 
dwalby said:
the service manual recommends a 14" long screwdriver for accessing the drain screws. At 300mm (which is what I assume you meant by 30mm??) you're a bit short.

What most of us find after owning these things for a while, its often easier to just start ripping bodywork off the bike to get better access to things. It looks like a lot of work at first, but after you do it a few times it becomes fairly simple and quick.
Click to expand...
dwalby said:
the service manual recommends a 14" long screwdriver for accessing the drain screws. At 300mm (which is what I assume you meant by 30mm??) you're a bit short.

What most of us find after owning these things for a while, its often easier to just start ripping bodywork off the bike to get better access to things. It looks like a lot of work at first, but after you do it a few times it becomes fairly simple and quick.
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it's at least 14 inches also have some panels off what I would like is someone to possibly show me an image of the Actual drain screw also how access better besides little port hole please?
 
They are a bitch to see, no doubt about that! Really, rather than try to find them now for a possible drain of what has likely long ago evaporated, just put fresh fuel in the tank and give 'er a go. If it runs poorly, the jets are likely clogged and you will be stripping body work anyway to pull the carbs.
 
DeanR said:
Here's a picture.
Still hoping for sentences.

Here is an article describing the whole deal. as I recall.

Carburetor Draining Procedure ( ST1100 ) *

Carburetor Draining Procedure ( ST1100 ) *
www.st-riders.net


carb drain screws.jpg
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That's an Article I have tried to follow but like I have stated not sure exactly where the screw in am not seeing it in Picture, Imagine that square was a clock could you give me a Time where the screw is perhaps? 🕵️
 
BigBrakes said:
That's an Article I have tried to follow but like I have stated not sure exactly where the screw in am not seeing it in Picture, Imagine that square was a clock could you give me a Time where the screw is perhaps? 🕵️
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The square being The image where little cover removed & flashlight supposedly shows drain screw
 
Bush said:
They are a bitch to see, no doubt about that! Really, rather than try to find them now for a possible drain of what has likely long ago evaporated, just put fresh fuel in the tank and give 'er a go. If it runs poorly, the jets are likely clogged and you will be stripping body work anyway to pull the carbs.
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No Harm miracles can happen nothing to loose cheers! 👌
 
4-5 liters of fresh gas and a bit of carb. cleaner to start with. It will take a bit of cranking to get the carb. full enough to run so you may need an extra battery to help get it started. When/if it starts, hold the RPMs at 1500-2000. If the jets are only partly clogged, the cleaner will start cleaning them.
 
BigBrakes said:
That's an Article I have tried to follow but like I have stated not sure exactly where the screw in am not seeing it in Picture, Imagine that square was a clock could you give me a Time where the screw is perhaps? 🕵️
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inside the hole facing outward, don't take the screw out, just a a turn or two.
 
Ron said:
4-5 liters of fresh gas and a bit of carb. cleaner to start with. It will take a bit of cranking to get the carb. full enough to run so you may need an extra battery to help get it started. When/if it starts, hold the RPMs at 1500-2000. If the jets are only partly clogged, the cleaner will start cleaning them.
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a bit of carb cleaner you say how much quarter of the Tin can sprayed into the fuel can before putting in bike fuel tank?
 
BigBrakes said:
a bit of carb cleaner you say how much quarter of the Tin can sprayed into the fuel can before putting in bike fuel tank?
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We can't answer that without knowing what cleaner you intend to use. Each brand will have its own mixing ratio. The instructions on the label will tell you the ratio of how much cleaner to mix with the gasoline.
 
BigBrakes said:
a bit of carb cleaner you say how much quarter of the Tin can sprayed into the fuel can before putting in bike fuel tank?
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NO NO NO... Don't spray carb cleaner into the fuel tank. I don't know what you have over in Ireland, but you'll need bottled carburetor cleaner. Something strong like Chevron Tecron, or Barryman B-12.
You said in your first post, that you see gold slotted screws. Those are the float bowl drains, so you've already found them. I use a bigger screw driver for the head size, then ground down the sides to get it into the countersunk bore of the screws hole. They're in there tight and will make a loud snapping noise when you crack them loose.

You may get lucky and you can flush out the carbs. I've done it before, but it only worked once. But hey, ya just gotta try! More than likely you'll be pulling the carbs to clean out the pilot/slow speed circuit. Be aware that you're not gonna get all the crap out of the bowls just by draining...

It's faster to pull the carbs, clean and reassemble, than jerk around messing with the carbs for day's on end trying to avoid the inevitable.
 
Just a suggestion - put fresh gas in and fire her up with the choke (technically a fuel enricher) on.
If it runs, then once warmed up, see if it will idle with the choke off.
If it will not idle, your low speed jets are gummed up and you will need to pull the carbs to clean them.
This procedure will save you a lot of time - and trust me works! ;)
 
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