125A. That's some significant current draw. Got it. So leave the SAE connectors for much lighter duty. Battery Tender fuses its leads at 7.5A and Warm n Safe at 15A IIRC (though they use coaxial connectors).
Need advice to remove battery!!!
- Thread starter FLC2C_Cruzn'AL
- Start date
The best an SAE connection is good for, as far as jumping goes, is to let one battery charge from another. And, yes, a fuse is still a good idea.
CYYJ
Michael
Hi Robert:
I don't think that the SAE connectors could ever be used to jump start a motorcycle. Not only would it be impossible to find a 125+ amp blade-style fuse to fit into the inline fuse block, but also the wires (basically lamp cord) that the SAE connectors use would be inadequate to supply the amperage needed to start the bike.
I think that the only way to jump-start a motorcycle is by using heavy-duty automotive-style jumper cables attached directly to the terminals of each battery (donor & recipient).
I have a set of miniature "motorcycle-spec" jumper cables that I carry in my ST 1100 saddlebag - but these are rather rare items, I have not seen them in stores since I bought them about 20 years ago. They are about AWG 4 or 5 (automotive cables are typically 00 or 000).
Michael
Neither do I which is why I asked. Post #15 talked about jump starting and subsequent posts mentioned SAE. I didn't want to say it wasn't possible in case somebody had pulled it off without a fiery death. But it did seem unlikely. With SAE rated at ~15A and a starter drawing 125A I didn't even bother doing the math.CYYJ said:
Last edited:
larryg
Site Supporter
This is a great idea, for quick and easy jump starting - unfortunately, the photos were lost (apparently) in the server upgrade:
www.st-owners.com
These are the high-current, quick-disconnect connectors he used:
powerwerx.com
This is on my to-do list....
Homemade jumper cables w/ quick connect | Electronics / Electrical
Just finished this project. Pair of homemade jumper cables and a quick disconnect on the bike side. After reading some of the horror stories and knowing the ST does not have the biggest reserve capacity, thought it best to be safe. Also did not want to get stuck with having the key in the...
These are the high-current, quick-disconnect connectors he used:
SB50 SB Series 50 Amp Anderson Powerpole Kit
Available in Blue, Gray, Red, Yellow, Orange, Green and Black. Recommended for use with 6, 8 and 10 gauge wire. Kit includes the housing and contacts needed for a single connector.
powerwerx.com
This is on my to-do list....
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Eastern Beaver has a ready-made motorcycle booster wiring harness called the Powerlink System. It is advertised as being for motorcycle boosting. I have no doubt that it would work just fine for a battery that needs some help to get the engine started. Being that it is AWG 10 I have my reservations about its ability to handle boosting a motorcycle whose battery is dead or nearly dead.
Dang nab it!
Yep, looks like all the photos I had on the website are gone. Hmm... wonder if I have the origianls at home.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Hi Michael:
I saw a post of yours a while back warning people about preventing abrasion damage to the smuggler by applying protective tape to a particular location. I don't remember what it was that you posted and don't seem to be able to find it now. I haven't noticed any damage to mine, but wanted to check this location that you had mentioned to prevent any future damage.
Can you explain this again please? Or link to your previous post about it.
I installed a power port on the opposite side of the bike for this reason. The left side cover is recessed to fit in around the preload adjuster knob. This allows a power port to be recessed as well and out of the way. Another benefit is that it has no effect on removing the right side cover to access the battery. There is plenty of room to run the wires in front of the rear fender.
I saw a post of yours a while back warning people about preventing abrasion damage to the smuggler by applying protective tape to a particular location. I don't remember what it was that you posted and don't seem to be able to find it now. I haven't noticed any damage to mine, but wanted to check this location that you had mentioned to prevent any future damage.
Can you explain this again please? Or link to your previous post about it.
I came across this post while looking for the above information on the smuggler. I thought I would offer an alternate location to prevent interference with the passenger's foot.
I installed a power port on the opposite side of the bike for this reason. The left side cover is recessed to fit in around the preload adjuster knob. This allows a power port to be recessed as well and out of the way. Another benefit is that it has no effect on removing the right side cover to access the battery. There is plenty of room to run the wires in front of the rear fender.
CYYJ
Michael
Hi Andrew:
Here is a photo showing the two locations where paint abrades on the Smuggler when the lid is fully opened. To prevent further abrasion, I just put some electrical tape over the paint where the two parts make contact. If your bike is a different colour than black, you could get a small piece of clear paint protection film from any body shop or place that puts plastic stick-on film on the front of cars (to minimize rock chips) and apply it to one or both of the locations.
Your power port location is clever, thanks for sharing that idea.
Michael
Smuggler - Preventing Paint Abrasion
Here is a photo showing the two locations where paint abrades on the Smuggler when the lid is fully opened. To prevent further abrasion, I just put some electrical tape over the paint where the two parts make contact. If your bike is a different colour than black, you could get a small piece of clear paint protection film from any body shop or place that puts plastic stick-on film on the front of cars (to minimize rock chips) and apply it to one or both of the locations.
Your power port location is clever, thanks for sharing that idea.
Michael
Smuggler - Preventing Paint Abrasion
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
Thanks Micheal.
Fortunately, I don't seem to have that interference on mine.
Maybe a case of adjusting the hinge as @Jevers posted earlier today on another thread.
I have a Smuggler that came with my bike when I bought it. It was the wrong color so I "painted" it with a removable product. I didn't realize that the hinge is adjustable until I opened up the lid and promptly " removed " some of the paint! I loosened up the screws and got it so it doesn't rub anymore.
Fortunately, I don't seem to have that interference on mine.
Maybe a case of adjusting the hinge as @Jevers posted earlier today on another thread.
I have a Smuggler that came with my bike when I bought it. It was the wrong color so I "painted" it with a removable product. I didn't realize that the hinge is adjustable until I opened up the lid and promptly " removed " some of the paint! I loosened up the screws and got it so it doesn't rub anymore.