Oil Level Window O-ring Leak / Bolt Torque

Joined
Nov 18, 2022
Messages
11
Location
Vancouver, BC
Bike
1999 ST1100AX ABS II
Hello everyone,
There's a leak at the oil level window, and the O-ring (part no: 91301-679-003) most likely needs to be changed.
I couldn't find the torque setting for the bolts (part no: 9571-06025-00) which are 6x25 mm.
Much appreciate your help.
 
Hello everyone,
There's a leak at the oil level window, and the O-ring (part no: 91301-679-003) most likely needs to be changed.
I couldn't find the torque setting for the bolts (part no: 9571-06025-00) which are 6x25 mm.
Much appreciate your help.
IIRC, you have to go by the 'standard torque' when a specific one is not given.

Unspecified Bolt Torques.jpg
 
That’s sounds like a pain- I assume the oil pan has to be removed to get to that…and the headers need to be taken off or loosened as well.
If you remove the headers from the cylinder heads, you will need new copper o-ring type gaskets. Go easy on loosening the nuts that hold the headers on and be careful torquing them. I tend to put aunt seize on everything...if you do reduce the torque spec 15 to 20%.
 
That’s sounds like a pain- I assume the oil pan has to be removed to get to that…and the headers need to be taken off or loosened as well.
Nope - not on the ST1100.
Two bolts and it comes right off - BTDT. ;)
 
Thanks very much Uncle Phil. I shall document and post the process here, possibly soon.
By the way, is that Nm, ft-lb, inch-lb? I am guessing Nm, since you are advising the fellows above the 49th parallel?
 
I wanted to change the O-ring in the oil level finder (viewing glass) during the next oil change, but since I was doing other maintenance under the bike (gear shift linkage, side and center stand cleaning and greasing) I replaced the O-ring as well.
I emptied and re-used the oil; it was changed only about 1200 km ago. The two flange bolts cracked open with relative ease, I kept track of which one goes where, just in case, but they are both the same size. The oil level finder cover only fits one way and the O-ring sits in its groove behind the cover. After removing the old O-ring, I cleaned the cover thoroughly, mainly the groove the O-ring sits. I suspect the O-ring I took out was the original factory one, since it was very rigid (hard plastic texture and very little flexible rubbery feel), thinner than the new one, had three dimples embedded in it (see photo, inside of the O-ring), and left lots of dirt and grim in the groove. The window glass was clean, may be because I change the oil every 5 - 6 K kilometers.
Now, the groove that O-ring sits in has three dimples, 120 degrees apart. These dimple marks can be seen in the interior of the old O-ring in the photo. A new O-ring sits in its groove tightly, but make sure the new O-ring sits flush. I forgot to take a photo of the new O-ring for comparison. Assembly was the reverse, with correct torque settings above.
This is one of those leaks that is so slow and gradual that took about 4 months for me to notice! The oil oozes out ever so slowly on the side of the crankcase and to the bottom of oil pan and drips, one drop every few days! But it takes a long time to get to that point. I noticed it because the bike was winterized for a few months and I always put a clean pan under the bike, just in case, and after 3 months I noticed a couple of drops!
 

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