On Buying a New, 18 year old ST1300
- Thread starter jfheath
- Start date
OP
OP
Thank you @Dobby . Not quite on two wheels yet, but getting there.
a) Hobbling around for the best part of a year and my other leg muscles have deteriorated to the extent that sifftin on the bike I have did not have the strength to lift my feet off the footpegs. I'm working on that, but it is taking its time.
b) 18 years and only 6440 miles on the clock and off the road for the last 4. Certain things need to be checked out.
The last inspection said that the rear brake was dragging slightly. I am not stupid, Mr Salesman. I took that to mean that there is a serious problem with the SMC but we will make it look as though it is OK.
So this is how it has looked for the last two weeks. Left fork off and dismantled. It was only half full of oil. Both wheels off, T33's have been fitted. Bike on centre stand and platform scissor jack under the sump.
The yellow tent guys (I'm done with camping, apparently, everywhere but in my head) are attached to the mirror bracket and they are holding up a piece of tube - to which I have cable tied the solid hydraulic pipes that cross the mudguard.
The axle stands are supporting the caliper brackets and calipers. I've just noticed from the photo that the white cable tie has slid across to the centre, so went out to check. It's ok, there is no weight on the pipes, but I've tightened that tie and added another.
I've ordered the bits that I suspect that I need to fix the forks. I have assumed that I need to replace the SMC so I've ordered that as well. Along with all sorts of other bits that I used to have in stock, but which I gave to my brother along with the old ST1300. His bike is in better condition than my new one, but this one looks pristine.
I have not ordered piston seals, but today I decided to carry out an experiment. Can I push in the rear outer pistons ? Brake fluid looks clear, but it has been changed recently. It doesn't mean that the SMC has been exercised at all in that time. I assume that it hasn't.
So I attached a bleed tube to the front left centre piston bleed valve, put a weight on the brake pedal and opened the valve. The banjo union for the front left centre cylinder has two hoses attached to it - one is the feed from the rear master cylinder, the other is a very short length to the SMC inlet.
With that bleed valve open, if the SMC is clear, I should be able to push in the rear outer pistons relatively easily. I removed the weight from the brake pedal and pushed the outer pistons with both thumbs. Nothiing. I have a block of wood that I slip in the caliper so that I don't make the mistake of popping the pistons out by pressing the brake pedal or pulling the lever. I used that to get a bit more pressure onto the pistons. Nothing.
Just to make sure, I tried pushing the centre piston in. That went in relatively easily - so the compensation port in the rear master cylinder is clear.
So that proves it. I need a new SMC - the compensation port in the SMC is blocked, or the tiny port in the nylon filter is blocked or the SMC piston is jammed. It's not the latter because the SMC operated the rear brakes in the shop. And the brakes released afterward. But that test is clearly not conclusive.
I'll probably need new piston seals all round, but that can wait. I can get those next day delivery. I'll get the fork seals done and the forks back in place first.
One other thing that confused me. This is the shot at the rear of the tank looking at the riders seat height adjuster.
Centre left is the large hose that joins the upper tank to the lower tank. It has a jubilee hose clamp on it.
That should have a specially made very strong clip on it that applies the correct pressure without distorting the pipe.
So for whatever reason, that tube has been removed. I cannot think why you would want to remove the top taank on a 6400 mile bike.
Hmm. There is no sign of fuel leakage. Doubtless we willl find out eventually.
Footnote: Because I'd got rid of the old Pan and had to make room in the garage for the Spyder, I also gave my ramp away to a friend. The spyder was going to my last bike / tryke and it required a two day frantic clear out of the garage, the removal of one of my Dexion shelf units, numerous trips to the tip to get rid of stuff that I should have got rid of years ago, and the ramp had to go. This was a serious commitment to the Spyder as our last bike. I wouldn't need the ramp any more. Now with the SPyder gone, I'm left with space to walk around the 'new' ST!300 without squeezing past things. It is really quite nice. I don't need a ramp - what I need is exercise getting from kneeling down to standing up - without using the back of the bike for support. I'm getting better at that, gradually. Goodness me, I thought when I sheared my calf muscle that it would be 6 weeks to repair and maybe another 6 to get back to strength. No one told me that it doesn't work like that when you get past 70. 19 months so far.... A little improvement every week. But it IS improvement and much better than the alternative....
a) Hobbling around for the best part of a year and my other leg muscles have deteriorated to the extent that sifftin on the bike I have did not have the strength to lift my feet off the footpegs. I'm working on that, but it is taking its time.
b) 18 years and only 6440 miles on the clock and off the road for the last 4. Certain things need to be checked out.
The last inspection said that the rear brake was dragging slightly. I am not stupid, Mr Salesman. I took that to mean that there is a serious problem with the SMC but we will make it look as though it is OK.
So this is how it has looked for the last two weeks. Left fork off and dismantled. It was only half full of oil. Both wheels off, T33's have been fitted. Bike on centre stand and platform scissor jack under the sump.
The yellow tent guys (I'm done with camping, apparently, everywhere but in my head) are attached to the mirror bracket and they are holding up a piece of tube - to which I have cable tied the solid hydraulic pipes that cross the mudguard.The axle stands are supporting the caliper brackets and calipers. I've just noticed from the photo that the white cable tie has slid across to the centre, so went out to check. It's ok, there is no weight on the pipes, but I've tightened that tie and added another.
I've ordered the bits that I suspect that I need to fix the forks. I have assumed that I need to replace the SMC so I've ordered that as well. Along with all sorts of other bits that I used to have in stock, but which I gave to my brother along with the old ST1300. His bike is in better condition than my new one, but this one looks pristine.
I have not ordered piston seals, but today I decided to carry out an experiment. Can I push in the rear outer pistons ? Brake fluid looks clear, but it has been changed recently. It doesn't mean that the SMC has been exercised at all in that time. I assume that it hasn't.
So I attached a bleed tube to the front left centre piston bleed valve, put a weight on the brake pedal and opened the valve. The banjo union for the front left centre cylinder has two hoses attached to it - one is the feed from the rear master cylinder, the other is a very short length to the SMC inlet.
With that bleed valve open, if the SMC is clear, I should be able to push in the rear outer pistons relatively easily. I removed the weight from the brake pedal and pushed the outer pistons with both thumbs. Nothiing. I have a block of wood that I slip in the caliper so that I don't make the mistake of popping the pistons out by pressing the brake pedal or pulling the lever. I used that to get a bit more pressure onto the pistons. Nothing.
Just to make sure, I tried pushing the centre piston in. That went in relatively easily - so the compensation port in the rear master cylinder is clear.
So that proves it. I need a new SMC - the compensation port in the SMC is blocked, or the tiny port in the nylon filter is blocked or the SMC piston is jammed. It's not the latter because the SMC operated the rear brakes in the shop. And the brakes released afterward. But that test is clearly not conclusive.
I'll probably need new piston seals all round, but that can wait. I can get those next day delivery. I'll get the fork seals done and the forks back in place first.
One other thing that confused me. This is the shot at the rear of the tank looking at the riders seat height adjuster.
Centre left is the large hose that joins the upper tank to the lower tank. It has a jubilee hose clamp on it.
That should have a specially made very strong clip on it that applies the correct pressure without distorting the pipe.
So for whatever reason, that tube has been removed. I cannot think why you would want to remove the top taank on a 6400 mile bike.
Hmm. There is no sign of fuel leakage. Doubtless we willl find out eventually.
Footnote: Because I'd got rid of the old Pan and had to make room in the garage for the Spyder, I also gave my ramp away to a friend. The spyder was going to my last bike / tryke and it required a two day frantic clear out of the garage, the removal of one of my Dexion shelf units, numerous trips to the tip to get rid of stuff that I should have got rid of years ago, and the ramp had to go. This was a serious commitment to the Spyder as our last bike. I wouldn't need the ramp any more. Now with the SPyder gone, I'm left with space to walk around the 'new' ST!300 without squeezing past things. It is really quite nice. I don't need a ramp - what I need is exercise getting from kneeling down to standing up - without using the back of the bike for support. I'm getting better at that, gradually. Goodness me, I thought when I sheared my calf muscle that it would be 6 weeks to repair and maybe another 6 to get back to strength. No one told me that it doesn't work like that when you get past 70. 19 months so far.... A little improvement every week. But it IS improvement and much better than the alternative....
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Sorry for your loss John.
Deepest condolences John.
Sorry for the loss of your Mum John.
It appears from your photo that someone has already replaced the fuel hose that goes between the two tanks, as that worm clamp is not the correct OEM spring clamp.
Keep an eye on both ends of the fuel hose now as those clamps will bite into the hose and cause a failure.
Nice job working on the bike.
I so miss wrenching on the ST’s.
Keep an eye on both ends of the fuel hose now as those clamps will bite into the hose and cause a failure.
Nice job working on the bike.
I so miss wrenching on the ST’s.
OP
OP
I lifted the tank - which oddly for a second hand bike , is brim full of fuel, and checked the other end. That has the original spring clip. So I guess that for whatever reason, they have removed the upper tank, and just disconnected it at the lower end. I’ve ordered 2 new clips and the hose. But I need to get under the airbox to find out why it was necessary to remove the fuel tank in the first place. Mice perhaps. It was sitting for 4 years with no MOT.
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