Over Heating???

[Bowl119]

I have a 2006 Honda ST1300 with 20,000 miles.
I can go to work (20 miles) and everything is fine. But when the day warms up and I am heading home, I lose power to the rear wheel. The engine runs fine, I can go up through the gears, but the motorcycle will not move. If I wait 20-30 minutes, I can ride it home. I did notice the coolant is low, does that have anything to do with the motorcycle losing power to the rare wheel?
Anyone else have or had this problem? What could it be?

THANK YOU...

 

[Andrew Shadow]

You wrote that the engine runs fine, does that mean that there is not a loss of engine power?

Do you mean that the engine can not physically move the motorcycle as if the brakes were applied and holding it back?

If you put it in gear and release the clutch what happens- does the engine stall because the motorcycle won't move?

 

[Igofar]

SMC failed, rear brakes dragging….

 

[TerryS]

Or the clutch master relief port has a blockage and no longer relieves the clutch line pressure, leading to a slipping/disengaged clutch.

 

[klaproth]

another vote for failed SMC.

 

[Bowl119]

You wrote that the engine runs fine, does that mean that there is not a loss of engine power?

Do you mean that the engine can not physically move the motorcycle as if the brakes were applied and holding it back?

If you put it in gear and release the clutch what happens- does the engine stall because the motorcycle won't move?

The motorcycle engine runs fine, but will not physically move the motorcycle. I can rev the motorcycle while in gear and nothing happens as far as movement. The engine does not stall and runs fine. But once again, this only happens after the motorcycle runs awhile in the hotter weather.

 

[Bowl119]

Or the clutch master relief port has a blockage and no longer relieves the clutch line pressure, leading to a slipping/disengaged clutch.

I have drained the fluid and cleaned everything.

But if that was the case, why would it only happen after the motorcycle heats up?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I have drained the fluid and cleaned everything.

But if that was the case, why would it only happen after the motorcycle heats up?

Based on you having worked on the hydraulic system, check to make sure that the front and rear brake master cylinders are not overfilled with brake fluid. If they are, this can cause binding brakes when the system gets hot.

If the above is not the case, and accepting that it is not a problem related to engine power, the next logical question is if it doesn't move because something is holding it back, or if it doesn't move because nothing is propelling it forward. Below would be my next suggested diagnostic test.

When this happens, you wrote that the motorcycle will not move. Under this condition, and with the transmission in neutral, can you move the motorcycle by manually pushing it as opposed to using the engine power to move it?
If the answer is yes, then there is a problem in the clutch system that needs to be investigated. Primary suspect would be the clutch slave cylinder is failing if you have already bled the system.
If the answer is no, then the primary suspect is binding brakes, and a good chance of a failing SMC- secondary master cylinder. When it won't move, put the motorcycle on the centre-stand and attempt to rotate the front and rear wheel one at a time to see which one is binding. This will help narrow down where to look next.

 

[MidLife]

.......the motorcycle will not move. .....

Locked rear would cause engine stall once in gear

 

[MidLife]

SMC failed, rear brakes dragging….

Better be SheGoFar writing that!

 

[RobbieAG]

If you put the bike on the center stand when it's hot, can you spin the back wheel (in neutral)? Is the rear rotor too hot to touch? These conditions would confirm the SMC is locking up the rear wheel.

 

[Bowl119]

I can move the motorcycle while in neutral. When it is on the center stand, the tires rotate freely. So I know the brakes are not binding.

Everything else works as it should, the motorcycle just will not move when in gear.

 

[Bowl119]

Locked rear would cause engine stall once in gear

Engine does not stall. It just does not move when on gear.

 

[Kevcules]

Clutch issue, more than likely your slave cylinder is pooched. Usually gets worse after the bike heats up.

Try another thorough clutch bleed. Also try bleeding the clutch when this happens.

 

[Larry Fine]

Clutch issue, more than likely your slave cylinder is pooched. Usually gets worse after the bike heats up.

Try another thorough clutch bleed. Also try bleeding the clutch when this happens.

Mine had the opposite problem: When it got hot, I'd get too much free-play. If it got hot enough, the clutch would not disengage at all. It would stall if I tried to stop. Only cooling down made it work again.

Two thorough vacuum flushings has improved it greatly.

 

[Bowl119]

When this happens, you wrote that the motorcycle will not move. Under this condition, and with the transmission in neutral, can you move the motorcycle by manually pushing it as opposed to using the engine power to move it?
If the answer is yes, then there is a problem in the clutch system that needs to be investigated. Primary suspect would be the clutch slave cylinder is failing if you have already bled the system.

I can move the motorcycle in neutral and the wheels spin freely when on the center stand. But if it is the slave, why would it only happen when it gets heated up?

 

[Kevcules]

Mine had the opposite problem: When it got hot, I'd get too much free-play, and if it got hot enough, the clutch would not disengage. It would stall if I tried to stop.

Maybe a different design from the 1300 to the 1100?

 

[bdalameda]

The clutch master cylinder fluid return port is plugged. When this happens pressure builds in the system as the slave cylinder warms on the engine and the clutch is used while you ride and it can't be released back to the fluid reservoir and relieve the pressure and the clutch will remain disengaged. After a time sitting the fluid can slowly pass through the blockage relieving the pressure as well as cool and contract and then the clutch will engage and begin working again.

You need to replace the fluid in the clutch system and while doing so get a small wire or paperclip and clear the small hole in the bottom of the fluid reservoir. Some master cylinders have a small cap over the hole that has to be removed. Also think about getting a rebuild kit and rebuild the master cylinder.

I've seen this happen quite a few times on many different bikes with hydraulically actuated clutches.

 

[ASPC]

Maybe a different design from the 1300 to the 1100?

Mine did that when the slave cylinder was going out. Got air in it and the clutch wouldn’t work properly when it got hot. Not the same problem as this guy has.

 

[bdalameda]

Maybe a different design from the 1300 to the 1100?

Usually this happens when the fluid get severely contaminated with moisture.