penetrants

PB Blaster has come to my rescue numerous times.
This time is a little different problem. I can't loosen a stupid thin, flat nut (about 1 1/2 inch) that tightens down a bathroom sink drain.
A new drain is ready but can't get the old one loose and out.

sink drain.jpg
 
While I have a couple 1gal cans of new unopened PB Blaster, and used to use it often, a much better penetrating oil is made from equal parts of type F automatic transmission fluid and Acetone.
 

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I had a frozen nut just like yours. Mine was on a porcelain sink so I could not be too aggressive with it. I was replacing the faucet at the time and the blessed Grohe faucet had suffered galvanic corrosion and was a mess. Grohe has been bought out by a multi national conglomerate and they have downsized the quality of what were once called 'bathroom jewelry' by a plumber friend. This brand is now no better than Moen or Delta. Because the faucet pieces were frozen I had to take the sink (pedestal type) off the wall. After removing the faucet (another story) I was able to attack the pop-up drain. I put the sink top side down on a tarp on the floor (drain sticking up).

Anyway, I could not loosen the nut for love or money. I ended up using an old battery op Makita recip saw (it is obsolete, has a short stroke and is smaller than your sawzall look alikes) to cut off the pipe flush with the nut. Then I put the saw up the pipe and started cutting outward through the brass pop up drain and nut. I was able to break the nut by levering it with a screw driver. That Makita's short stroke and a hack saw blade enabled me to cut smoothly if slowly. And i did no damage to the sink.

Good luck on this.
 
Yes it does, maybe not all the way you'd like it to, though. One of those induction bolt removers works a lot better if you have the access.
 
If the one coming off is trash and being replaced, just grab an oscillating tool and a metal blade. The nut will cut quick and easy.
Working under a cramped sink is no fun.
 
Obo said:
Working under a cramped sink is no fun.
Click to expand...

That's for sure !
I'll hit it with the PB a number of times over the next few days and see what happens.
Another BIG part of this problem is the thickness of that nut. Tough to get a wrench on it securely. No clue why it was designed that way.
Was wondering about using a Dremel cut blade on it.

Type F automatic transmission fluid and Acetone. I do know about this but have never tried it.

That CorrosionX looks interesting.

Don't have an oscillating tool.
 
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DeanR said:
Type F automatic transmission fluid and Acetone. I do know about this but have never tried it.
Click to expand...
This is a formula that has been kicking around the web for a while. I've seen it called Red's penetrating oil or something similar and a couple of other names.

The real problem with getting that nut off is lack of space - the fat washer above the nut limits how an oscillating saw can reach the nut. I have an original Fein tool (the oscillating sander/multi tool and opted for my Makita with a hack saw blade for that reason. Have you tried a pipe wrench or channellock pliers? On other jobs I have taken a piece of steel and made a wrench to fit large nuts. If all else fails.....



Of course every plumber has one of these in his tool box but they are rarely used - there is never enough room to get in there and apply the necessary leverage.
 
DeanR said:
Was wondering about using a Dremel cut blade on it.


Don't have an oscillating tool.
Click to expand...
got a pair of really big Channellocks??

Or, if you have a Dremel tool put a drill bit in the dremel tool and drill a hole on one of the flats, then hit it with a hammer and chisel to try to split the nut. Might work faster than trying to get a round cutting wheel into that small corner area.
 
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