Portable Room Air Conditioners?

ST Gui

240Robert
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I know the WHAT basics (condenser/evaporator/fan/yadda) so I'm good there. There's a very specific HOW question regarding air flows / paths inside the box. I've looked online hoping to find a jfheath-level follow-the-flow diagram that answered my simple question but no joy. So I thought I'd try here.

Consider a two-hose portable A/C unit connected to a window. In my quest for a simple answer it's a box with three air flows:

intake (outside atmosphere to A/C box)
exhaust (inside A/C box to outside atmosphere)
A/C air (inside A/C box to room atmosphere)

My question - how is the intake sorted to A/C and exhaust once inside the box? Outside air enters the box. Exhaust air leaves the box. Cool (A/C) air leaves the box. How is this accomplished inside? Magic smoke? Air prisms? If there's a simple schemo that tells me what I want to know I won't find it until after clicking Post.
 
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My question - how is the intake sorted to A/C and exhaust once inside the box? Outside air enters the box. Exhaust air leaves the box. Cool (A/C) air leaves the box. How is this accomplished inside? Magic smoke? Air prisms? If there's a simple schemo that tells me what I want to know I won't find it until after clicking Post.
here is you basic diagram. It's not what you think, no smoke or mirrors just simplicity. For more info google "window air conditioner air flow diagram"

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jfheath

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I've looked online hoping to find a jfheath-level follow-the-flow diagram that answered my simple question but no joy.
That made me chuckle. A nice reference, thank you !
Unfortunately, I know nothing about air conditioners. But I have been known to spout a lot of hot air from time to time.

@Sunday Rider's posted diagram got my attention.
 

Erdoc48

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Regarding portable ACs…most say don’t use them because they’re loud and inefficient. I would have to disagree. I have a 500 sq ft unit in the garage (~20 x 20 sq ft) for when I have to work on the cars/ bikes and even turn it on before a ride and leave it on when I’m out riding- when I get back, it’s nice and cool in there (very decently cool when it’s 90+ outside and huge when you have to work in the garage)- I also have a smaller sq-ft unit for the ‘Carolina Room’ in the back of the house (~215 sq-ft floor space)- that works very well and cools nicely (300 sq-ft unit) in ~ 20-30 minutes. Single hose too on both units (my carpenter ran condensate lines out of the house on both units)- I’m really happy with them. I probably wouldn’t want a unit like that in the bedroom since the compressor is in the room with you, but for all the negatives I’ve read and researched in the past, they work very well for my needs.

By the way, cost for the Carolina Room unit was $399 and garage unit was $510.

Also, the units I have (Hisense brand sold at Lowes) are supposed to be condensate free as most of the condensate is supposed to leave via the main hose)- the amount of condensate in the line is truthfully not that much but it is nice to know it’s not accumulating in the unit (which has a drain port anyway in case you want to open it to drain). If they ever fail, replacing them is really easy.

A ‘mini-split’ is likely the best option for quiet and effective cooling if you need it in one room, but it’s more involved to install it and the cost is quite a bit higher- my neighbor has a mini split that feeds into his Carolina Room and that was $5000 with an HVAC contractor installing it.
 
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The mini splits are the way to go if you're going to stay in your home for a few years. All the leading brands are very reliable and seem to hit the dumpster [at least in my shop] at the 15 to even 18 year mark which isn't bad. Aside from basic maintenance of cleaning the washable filter and keeping the condenser clean, they're very reliable and more often than not [short of failed motor or compressor run capacitors] run problem free during that period.
If you're deciding between AC or Heat pumps, HP work well in regions where the outdoor winters are not so bad; here in Vancouver [outdoor design temperature maybe minus 10C / 14F [?] they're good; SEER ratings / compressor coeficient of performance [2k of heat for 1k of power] justify their cost and wear and tear on the compressor.
Window shakers are good, but they're called that for a reason.
Portables are like this; I can't believe that in Canada they even allow a one piper; effectively air, that you paid to cool and dehumify, gets thrown across the condenser and out the window. Two pipers bring in outdoor air [that stuff you didn't pay to cool] dump it across the condenser and exhaust it back out, just your window shaker, except doesn't growl as much in the process, you'll be able to get some sleep.
The one pipers are sometimes all you can get and they're cheaper, but you need to make up air, waste energy on it while it's in the mix and throw it away.
The other thing is condensate, there's a sensible and latent load on the coil depending on the wet bulb temperature entering. There are actually AC systems that control SST of refrigerant or chilled water to maintain a high enough temperature so that no condensate occurs. They're garbage and that isn't going to happen with any residential system but it's interesting to know that some cooling systems can keep the coil temps above the dew point, maintain a 100% sensible heat factor and actually maintain comfort...
Yours doesn't. Here in my neck of the woods, there's a three week period in July / August when every condensate drain plugs up.
The window shakers of old used to have a drain spigot, the new ones allow that condensate to drain to the base of the condenser where the condenser fan blade [motor is a two shaft indoor forward inclined wheel / outdoor condenser fan] lifts the condensate and blasts it out / or the first few passes of the condenser [superheated vapor] are routed to the bottom few passes of the condenser to warm / evaporate a bit, who cares; point being, the condensate soaked piping will eventually destroy the fins and break down those lower rows of the condenser, but hey, at least your portable AC won't last as long as your grandmother's chest freezer with the rotary compressor [don't get me started on that one].
The two piper portables, such as mine, [won't mention any favorites Friedrich, okay I did] have an option, you can be lazy [like me] and just allow the condensate to be discharged somewhat similarly as described with the window shaker, or you can use the optional drain connection, connect to a floor drain, or use a condensate pump and save your condenser from eventually fouling along the bottom few passes.
 
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Just an interesting add to that, from what I'm told by the guys in my shop doing installs, is here you can no longer use Heat Pumps in combination with Nat Gas; you have to go all electric; in other words, your second stage, third stage, emergency heat [whatever] must be electric with a heat pump system.
Evil natural gas. Evil!
Also, that 2k for 1k of energy in is on the bitter end; when it's bloody cold outside. Used to be these things were worse than useless at 30F. COPs now are as good as 4.25:1 when outdoor temps are 60F so that's pretty cheap.
 
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Erdoc48

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I failed to mention in my post that my portable AC units don’t act as heat pumps, just as AC units. I wanted a mini split system with 2 heads, one to the garage and one to the Carolina room- a contractor was to do the work, exacted $4500 from me as a deposit, then vanished. I did have the law catch up with him and had him arrested and charged, but I’m waiting for his court date (and he has a second person’s money as well, so it’s 2 counts of grand theft, so he may be going to jail for a while once the court date happens and as usual, the law moves very slowly)- I may never see my $$$ again, so that’s why I opted for the portables- better than having nothing. I’ve worked in a hot garage in the summer down here (fans on and shirtless) and it’s still pretty much hell in there.

IMG_3308.jpegIMG_3307.jpeg

My carpenter made the small platform and cut the size of the vent tube down as well as made the condensate line plumbed to the outside of the enclosure. Works well and although some condensate made, not too much.
 
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Your condensate will vary proportionately [almost nearly] with the wet bulb temp entering the evaporator. It's never been more apparant to me as a service contract we had somewhere a few years ago where the drain of a five ton unit terminated [now I remember, where everyone protests... government bought the whole works... it'll come to me] through a pipe hanging out of one of the building on the second floor, almost nothing in May a bit more in June, but you could maintain a half acre of garden with what comes out of there in August.
 
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I failed to mention in my post that my portable AC units don’t act as heat pumps, just as AC units. I wanted a mini split system with 2 heads, one to the garage and one to the Carolina room- a contractor was to do the work, exacted $4500 from me as a deposit, then vanished. I did have the law catch up with him and had him arrested and charged, but I’m waiting for his court date (and he has a second person’s money as well, so it’s 2 counts of grand theft, so he may be going to jail for a while once the court date happens and as usual, the law moves very slowly)- I may never see my $$$ again, so that’s why I opted for the portables- better than having nothing. I’ve worked in a hot garage in the summer down here (fans on and shirtless) and it’s still pretty much hell in there.

IMG_3308.jpegIMG_3307.jpeg

My carpenter made the small platform and cut the size of the vent tube down as well as made the condensate line plumbed to the outside of the enclosure. Works well and although some condensate made, not too much.
That makes a lot of sense
 
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As a portable AC user, I can relate to your quest to understand the internal air flows. While the mechanics can seem like magic, a well-designed system uses strategically placed fans and baffles to direct the intake, exhaust, and cold air streams.
By the way, did anyone consider checking the air quality, especially around the unit? I know a guy who does it to ensure optimal performance and replace filters when needed. I even started thinking about talking to the iqair customer service manager and finding out whether I also need such a device.
 
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In case it was covered earlier, just skip over...

There's a few types of portable AC units.

Basically there's a single hose and a double hose unit. The double hose can be 2 hoses or a hose within a hose.

A single hose draws air from the room in order to discharge the heat outside. A dual hose brings in outside air to take the rooms extracted heat heat outside.

A dual hose has the advantage that it doesn't create a negative pressure in the room you are cooling. A negatively pressurized room will ultimately draw in the hot air from outside, which is the opposite of what you want.

A portable unit also has all the compressor & hot bits inside your room, unlike a window mount or mini split. This too adds heat into your room.

This is why most portable AC's have 2 thermal ratings, a higher BTU rating and an adjusted lower BTU SACC rating. Effectively it's the unit's capacity and it's adjusted effective cooling capacity allowing for the drawbacks mentioned above.

Don't get me wrong, portable units will certainly cool a space if adequately sized. It's just a matter of efficiency. There are also places where no other type of AC unit will really fit in the space. Other AC types are also not portable.

If you can, get the "dual hose" style over the single as it will be cheaper to run in the long haul.



For those of you who can use a window mount style, Midea makes a very neat unit that's also really quiet. It's designed in a bit of a U shape so the cooler section is inside and the noisy & hot compressor section is outside. It minimized how much your window is open and how much sound transfers in. It does it by having the window close INTO that U gap. Here's a video of one installed etc. It's almost designed like an all in one mini-split.


I'd buy one of these over a portable unit if I had single or double hung windows. All my windows though are casement (side swings) so these are out and it makes it challenging to even vent portable AC units out them. A mini split isn't really an option due to the lack of electrical breaker capacity in the current panels & no space to add additional sub panels. (I have 2 entrances, 2 full main panels and 3 sub panels already....)
 
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ST Gui

ST Gui

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If only I had sash windows. This would be so easy. But this is for a horizontal slider so fashioning a full length spacer with openings for two hoses would/will be required. Doable but not as clean as I'd like.

Ok l just watched the video. I'd buy that unit just because of the automated door opening up! :D But it doesn't fit my window. :(
 
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