Post-trip maintenance

[ejf012]

Hey all, just got back from an 1800mi trip recently and working on some things that I noticed pop up while I was gone. My fork seals started weeping pretty significantly, so I'm looking at servicing them as I already have a set of SHOWA slider and guide bushings, as well as a seal set. So I have enough to do one fork. Is there a difference I should be concerned about between the SHOWA and non-SHOWA parts? Not sure where that discrepancy came from. Also, looking at the resources out there, it's a bear of a job. Y'all think if I take parts, a Clymer manual, and the forks to a bike shop they would service them for me (and treat them well)?

Finally, right at the end of my trip I noticed a little bit of a speed wobble when I let go of the handlebars. That's historically been something I've kept an eye out for and it definitely wasn't there, so I'd like to nip it in the bud quickly. My instinct says the steering head bearing could be at fault. Any other suggestions of things I could check?

 

[dwalby]

I've only used aftermarket fork seals for every bike I've owned since 1980, in my experience seals are seals.

If your fork bushings don't look worn, I wouldn't bother replacing them, others here may have a different opinion. When they wear there's a noticeable color difference that's visible. (how many miles on the bike?)

No, I wouldn't take them to a bike shop, its an easy job if you're mechanically inclined and used to working on things. But, to put it back together it helps to make your own driving tool, which can be fabricated out of simple PVC/ABS pipe from Home Depot.

front end wobble could be from a worn tire, bearing replacement is a bit of a chore so I'd make sure its really necessary before going that route. And if you have the OEM bearings you may just need to re-adjust the tightness of the steering stem nut. For bearing replacement I think there's a tool around somewhere that you can borrow to remove the old races, which will make the job much easier than trying to pound them out with a long metal rod like I did almost 30 years ago.

 

[ejf012]

I've only used aftermarket fork seals for every bike I've owned since 1980, in my experience seals are seals.

If your fork bushings don't look worn, I wouldn't bother replacing them, others here may have a different opinion. When they wear there's a noticeable color difference that's visible. (how many miles on the bike?)

No, I wouldn't take them to a bike shop, its an easy job if you're mechanically inclined and used to working on things. But, to put it back together it helps to make your own driving tool, which can be fabricated out of simple PVC/ABS pipe from Home Depot.

front end wobble could be from a worn tire, bearing replacement is a bit of a chore so I'd make sure its really necessary before going that route. And if you have the OEM bearings you may just need to re-adjust the tightness of the steering stem nut. For bearing replacement I think there's a tool around somewhere that you can borrow to remove the old races, which will make the job much easier than trying to pound them out with a long metal rod like I did almost 30 years ago.

95k miles on the bike, brand new tires before aforementioned trip so likely not that. Hard to know if bushings are worn before actually getting in there. I've done everything on this bike myself so far, pretty sure I messed up the forks on my last motorcycle trying to do seals though (oops!) I'll look into tightness of the nut, that's a good recommendation.

 

[dwalby]

the nut that matters is a special nut that they make a Honda tool to fit, its not a regular hex nut. However, IIRC for a quick adjustment you can grab it with channellocks and tighten it a little if needed. Having the tool allows you to set the torque to spec, but I think you can adjust by steering feel just as well anyway without the tool.

 

[St-Gerard]

Wobble on decel , got cured on my ST when I installed new Bridgestone's (T 32's iirc) and tightened the Steering bearing to specs, Tapered bearings, like 3 pounds pull with the Fish scale I bought from Bass pro.

 

[Daboo]

Just a thought regarding the fork seal leak. Did you try something like a Sealmate fork seal cleaner? https://sealmate.net/

You can make one yourself from some plastic. I carry one with me all the time.



Chris

 

[Al st1100]

Speed wobble? What speed? If over 60mph possible front tire out of balance. Put bike on center stand, get the front wheel off the ground and turn left to right. It should be smooth and not "notchy"

 

[ejf012]

Just a thought regarding the fork seal leak. Did you try something like a Sealmate fork seal cleaner? https://sealmate.net/

You can make one yourself from some plastic. I carry one with me all the time.



Chris

I haven't seen those before! Might be worth a try. Although I will say, there was quite a bit leaking all the way around the seal. So may be a crusty seal instead of grime.

Speed wobble? What speed? If over 60mph possible front tire out of balance. Put bike on center stand, get the front wheel off the ground and turn left to right. It should be smooth and not "notchy"

When I first noticed it, it was happening around the 30-40 range. Putting around town, not on the highway

 

[Daboo]

I haven't seen those before! Might be worth a try. Although I will say, there was quite a bit leaking all the way around the seal. So may be a crusty seal instead of grime.

They are simple, but effective. On my F800GT, I was getting a fork leak. My mistake was in getting the "tool" under the dust seal, but not far enough in to reach the actual seal. Once I realized that, I cleaned it out removing some crud and all was well. Sold the bike with 107,000 miles on it and never took the forks apart.

Here's a simple picture of how to use it.



Chris

 

[SMSW]

the nut that matters is a special nut that they make a Honda tool to fit, its not a regular hex nut. However, IIRC for a quick adjustment you can grab it with channellocks and tighten it a little if needed. Having the tool allows you to set the torque to spec, but I think you can adjust by steering feel just as well anyway without the tool.

I wrap electrical tape around my channellocks and use them for all sorts of things. More tape = more padding (and a corresponding less grip).