pre 96 alternator - to worry or not?

[Steven P. Hauser]

I am considering my first ST. Is there a greater chance of failure on a pre-96 model? Or is the general concern with it just being a 28 vs a 40?

thanks in advance

Steve

 

[electrajoe]

From what I hear the 28 amp alt is fine until you start over taxing it, such as heated grips, heated vest and high watt lights.

Look at this:

http://home.insightbb.com/~mmartin36/Amps.htm

 

[NewsMag]

Pre-96 ST1100 Alternator

Hi Steve,

Based on my experince with both a 93 standard and 95 ABS model, there is a 100% chance of alternator failure if the owner uses ANY aftermarket electrical accessories, including things like higher-power headlamps (stock are 45/45). It's just a matter of time and how much extra stuff is there.

That said, if the 28amp (oil cooled) unit has been upgraded to the 40amp (air cooled) unit, and there are no oil leaks, the bike has a nearly unlimited life, given proper routine maintenance.

 

[Steven P. Hauser]

Thanks all for your responses.
I have found a 91 in showroom condition and had my mechanic give it a good inspection. The wiring and connectors are all in good shape, no signs of heat or brittleness and the testing of the output was excellent under load. I will be signing the check Saturday for the bike and will join this group of happy ST riders. Man, a ST1100 and a Goldwing, I should have about 300,000 miles to go! I hope to start meeting a bunch of you at upcoming events!

 

[dompa894]

Pre-96 alternator ...

I am considering my first ST. Is there a greater chance of failure on a pre-96 model? Or is the general concern with it just being a 28 vs a 40?

thanks in advance

Steve

Hi Steve ... if you dont tax the alternator at all, you should be all right for an extended period of time.

But as you approach ~70,000 miles, the chance of a failure (IMHO) increases considerabily.

Get a good used st1100, ride it, and plan for an alternator swap at some point ... it's rare that they last "forever".

 

[stealthstrom]

Hi Steve ... if you dont tax the alternator at all, you should be all right for an extended period of time.

But as you approach ~70,000 miles, the chance of a failure (IMHO) increases considerabily.

Get a good used st1100, ride it, and plan for an alternator swap at some point ... it's rare that they last "forever".

What does a new alternator cost?

SS

 

[Mellow]

What does a new alternator cost?

SS

SS,

I did a quick search on Ron Ayres site HERE and they list all the parts.

Number 10 - Alternator Assembly is listed at $353.

I'm sure others might have a better experience finding cheaper options such as salvage yards and such. Heck, someone here might just have one sitting around... you never know.

 

[stealthstrom]

SS,

I did a quick search on Ron Ayres site HERE and they list all the parts.

Number 10 - Alternator Assembly is listed at $353.

I'm sure others might have a better experience finding cheaper options such as salvage yards and such. Heck, someone here might just have one sitting around... you never know.

Thanks Mellow....I looked around on the internet but did have much luck. The 91 ST that I am looking at buying 28 amp so I was trying to figure in the additional costs.

SS

 

[birdie_xx]

From my archives......

This write up is few years old and I think I've got it in '99 ....

ST1100 Modifications


Pre-1996 ST1100 40-amp Alternator Retrofit
by Alan Barbic


I'm Alan Barbic and have a '91 ST1100 that has had a 40 amp alternator installed since spring of 1997 with over 25,000 miles of flawless operation. At first I only shared the achievment with a very small handfull of close friends (Ron Major, who was truely amazed and sworn to secrecy, was among them).

I knew that the pre '96 ST1100 had a terribly anemic charging system. But it was only when a set of Ron Major Piaa driving lights and 100 watt headlight bulbs were put into service that the magnitude of the problem became evident. The Piaa's come standard with 110 watt bulbs. Ron insisted on sending a set of 55 watt bulbs because of the wimpy 28 amp alternator, and suggested that a voltmeter be installed to monitor the status of the electrical system. Needless to say the 55 watts were not nearly as illuminating as the 110 watt flame throwers. The only problem was that with everything in the on position the voltmeter showed imminent death would soon be forth coming by way of the battery.

I went in to my local Honda dealer (G.P. SPORTS 408-377-8780 Russ in Parts) to see if a retro fit of the new 40 amp alternator was possible ( every one, including Honda said, "no way" ). After checking all the part numbers I was convinced that my research would handsomely pay off. So I took the leap of faith and ordered about $700 in parts ( no return on electrical parts ). When all came in and I started to measure and examine the pieces side by side I knew that I had hit the jackpot.

The following list is the parts needed to do this project
#1 qty1 13411-MAJ-G20 /SHAFT $44.68
#2 qty1 11202-MAJ-G20 /ALTERNATOR BASE $45.48
#3 qty1 91004-MT3-003 /BEARING $15.57
#4 qty1 31100-MAJ-G41 /AC GENERATOR ASSY ( ALTERNATOR) $503.22
#5 qty1 91302-MM4-003 /O-RING $9.32
#6 qty1 32130-MAJ-G40 /ALTERNATOR SUB-HARNESS $19.55
#7 qty1 11214-MY3-000 /OIL PAN GASKET ( for 92 + ) $18.18
#8 qty1 11214-MT3-000 /OIL PAN GASKET ( for 91 ) $12.45
#9 qty3 95701-08070-00 /FLANGE BOLT 8X70 $1.96 each
#10 qty1 55 or 60 amp fuse set up ( in line or a block with spade connections )
#11 qty1 4-5 feet of #12 wire


WARNING
THE FOLLOWING IS NOT FOR THE MECHANICALLY CHALLENGED

This will not be a step by step hand holding session. Use a shop manual to fully comprehend all that is involved to do this. Of course all the highest standard of care and practice will be applied regarding all electrical connections, routing and mechanical aspects.

You will need to pull the fuel tank, swing arm, exhaust system, oil pan and the alternator assy ( take it apart, i.e.; remove the stator for clearance to pull the shaft assembly out ) .


THE MOTOR DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED FOR THIS INSTALLATION!

Using the new #1Shaft , #2 Alternator base, #3 Bearing and #5 O-ring take the remaining applicable parts from the old alternator assy and assemble and install into the motor per the manual.

Take the new alternator assy apart at the middle put the rear half ( the part with the stator-regulator-brushes ) aside for now. Install the other half on to the motor and then assemble the alternator with the remaining half . Use the 8X70 flange bolts in #9 to finish the alternator installation.

Install the sub-harness #6. The "2P" connector ( small ) wire of the new sub-harness is a direct replacement-connection to the existing in main wiring harness. The larger wire will need to be extended and/or totally replaced to reach the new 55 or 60 amp in line fuse ( mine is located on top of the existing fuse block next to the battery ) and from the new fuse go directly to the battery. REMOVE THE OLD REGULATOR-RECTIFIER ( Don't worry about it's plug connector at the wiring harness )

Now assemble every thing that is still in need of assembly and no longer lust for a '96 or newer ST1100. This will make a huge difference in your ST's electrical capability. Lights, radios, radar detectors,electric vests-chaps-gloves and more as you desire. Enjoy

More likelly I'll do the project this winter .....

 

[Peter]

I am considering my first ST. Is there a greater chance of failure on a pre-96 model? Or is the general concern with it just being a 28 vs a 40?

thanks in advance

Steve

The one thing that always causes problems in owning an ST is that there are so few faults so that people make there own up

Peter

Remember "if it aint broke then don't fix it"

 

[birdie_xx]

Peter, did you buy another ST?

Yep....

I have the second one that Jerry bought. It needs some "loving" and many parts

It's the '91 and it used to be silver.


Cheers,

 

[ThreeWheels]

I'm just curious........................

How many of the 28 amp alternators have actually failed, and how many of them have been replaced because people are worried that they're going to fail ?

When I studied this before, with the advice I recieived from others, I concluded that some people overtaxed the alternator and fried it.

I understand that "overtaxed" is a relative term. Some people can very easily expect a touring bike to support heated clothing and driving lights.

In any event, some people wound up frying the alternator and, of course, those are the people who have posted about it. Most of the time, if you don't have any problems, you don't bother to post. Before I bought my bike, i wound up starting a little flame war between a couple of guys as to whether or not the alternator was adequate.

So my questio nis............how many ST's have high mileage 28 amp alternators and haven't had any problems ?

Maybe if more people with no problems posted, we might get a better idea.

 

[Fred D]

Well, I hope I don't jinx myself. I just turned 89,000 on my '93 and have had not problems. (admittedly 89,000 is not necessarily high mileage for a 93 )

The only extras I'm running are a CB, GPS, and some auxilliary LED rear lights.

 

[birdie_xx]

I had the '92 with 46K when I sold it. I didn't burn the stator but the RR failed.

I run the heated grips, 55W bulbs and heated vest. But I altered the vest and grips.

In irony, the bike failed in Jully...... (heated gear was not used....)


Cheers,

 

[Martin_b]

While you shouldn't overload the 28 amp alternator, even if you don't add anything, it can still go. Though it's often the VRR and not the alternator itself. Make sure all connections to the VRR are kept clean and tight. Make sure the green ground wire next to the VRR is also clean and tight. The same with the battery connections. And I highly recommend eliminating the connector between the main wiring harness and the alternator wiring harness. Cut out the connector entirely and solder the wires together and heat shrink for insulation.

 

[Don-STOC237]

How many of the 28 amp alternators have actually failed, and how many of them have been replaced because people are worried that they're going to fail ?

I was there when my good friend STeve (Newsmag)'s 28 amper failed. It was right after a nice lunch in Banff, which we had after a nice soak in the hot springs. We were all set for a nice tour of Lake Louise and other points in that area when his 28 amper packed up and he ended up trailering the bike behind a rental car back to Utah.

Best advice is, change it before you need it, the clock is ticking...

 

[Bytes_U]

I had my original '91 I just traded in this year that still had the 28amp alternator, although I never run additional electrical accessories.

 

[BrianB]

There have been numerous failures reported due to overloading, some just from time. I run two vests, heated grips, and higher wattage bulbs. Voltage gauge shows that the system struggles to keep up. I am OK with this but am going to aquire the parts for an upgrade just in case. John Oosteruis just reported 85 ( I think) recorded upgrades todate so it is getting to be a common repair with lots of info on what to do and what not to do. Might just do mine this winter as we are planning a trip to Alaska next June, but then I might just gamble. 83000 Kilos, tick tick tick, as they say.
Brian

 

[ThreeWheels]

85 upgrades. Does anyone know how many ST1100 were sold ?

Let's assume that 5000 ST 1100 were sold in the US.

That means that 85 out of 5000, or less than 2% have been upgraded.

That doesn't sound like much. But I'm not sure of the number of ST's sold.

 

[BrianB]

85 documented upgrades, there may be many more. Plus how many failures were just repaired with stock parts before the upgrade became common knowledge. I think that the 28 amper is one of the few problem areas that ST's have, so when my alternator burns up from over load, I will upgrade it and will be thankfull for those that have gone before. I do have a theory though, I think, ( info gathered from watching my volt meter) that in cooler climates over load is not as bad as in hotter areas. I see a great difference between hot weather voltage and cold voltage. Hense the system can handle my cold weather gear draw when I need it as there is less stress on the system due to less resistance over all, or the same as no extra draw on hot summer days. (may actually be harder on the system) Time will only tell, as I said before tick tick tick
Brian