Excellent! :clap2: That answers a few questions I still had since I had yet to tear into one! Will be in a week or two though, the ebay shock is "in the mail"...
Pre-Load Fluid Replacement Follow Up
- Thread starter Igofar
- Start date
Excellent! :clap2: That answers a few questions I still had since I had yet to tear into one! Will be in a week or two though, the ebay shock is "in the mail"...
OP
OP
Igofar
Site Supporter
Excellent! :clap2: That answers a few questions I still had since I had yet to tear into one! Will be in a week or two though, the ebay shock is "in the mail"...
SupraSabre, I've got a few of the 8mm copper sealing washers left....maybe if you decide to go for a ride one weekend, you could come over to my neck of the woods and I can make your mail order bride as good as new.
IGOFAR
Larry, thanks for the offer, I would love to, but I think I would have a hard time getting a kitchen pass (from the boss - wife) to ride 400+ miles to pick up some crush washers....
I'm down in SoCal, just north of SanDyeggo.
But thanks for the writeup and the pictures dduelin added, because I'll be able to do mine! :clap2:
OP
OP
Igofar
Site Supporter
Larry, thanks for the offer, I would love to, but I think I would have a hard time getting a kitchen pass (from the boss - wife) to ride 400+ miles to pick up some crush washers....
I'm down in SoCal, just north of SanDyeggo.
But thanks for the writeup and the pictures dduelin added, because I'll be able to do mine! :clap2:
I can understand about the kitchen pass thing....but an ST owner who thinks a 400 mile ride too far? Now thats funny.
I grew up in your neck of the woods (El cajon, La Mesa, Escondido, etc.) Nice beaches down south.
Not sure why anyone needs to take the adjuster knob off. The unit will come out of the right side of the bike with the knob intact, and there's nothing under there to adjust anyhow. One less spring/ball bearing to lose in the garage.. :yes:
Sealing washers can be heated with a torch (annealed - http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference-material/annealling-copper---aluminium-washers.aspx) and reused if necessary. I didn't even bother doing that, just reused them. No issues.
Sealing washers can be heated with a torch (annealed - http://www.motorcycle.co.uk/reference-material/annealling-copper---aluminium-washers.aspx) and reused if necessary. I didn't even bother doing that, just reused them. No issues.
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If I was retired and had pleanty of time on my hands like George and Mac, it wouldn't be a problem....
That's right down where Dana lives... I go to Torrey Pines Beach all the time for lunch!
Excellent article... I knew there was a reason I have kept all the old drain plug washers...
Okay, so my shock came in today. I did test the preload, it goes 11 clicks before you feel anything, so it will be refilled before being installed. Doubt if I'll be able to get to it tomorrow, since I have to tear my wife's Highlander apart and see if I can fix her hot/cold temp switch.
I'll probably tear into it next week when it is a little cooler out in the garage, it's probably close to 100F right now!4:
I'll probably tear into it next week when it is a little cooler out in the garage, it's probably close to 100F right now!
4:
mlheck
Site Supporter
After reading some of the posts about refilling the preload I fiqured out how to get most of the air out after refilling it. It works kind of the same way has hand bleeding brakes. After refilling the the preload and tighting the banjo bolt, hold the unit above the shock with the bolt and hose on top. Turn the knob until you feel resistance. Give the knob about a 1/4 of a turn more. Tap on the hose and preload unit lightly to help move any air bubbles to the highest point, which should be the banjo bolt and hose connection. With the 1/4 turn of preload still dialed in, loosen the banjo bolt a full turn, and then re-tighten it. The spring on the shock will push the adjustment sleeve back in and should push some fluid and any air out when you loosen the bolt. I then repeated the step again. I lost about a half turn of preload adjustment, but it did make a difference in the feel of the shock from before bleeding out the air from the refill.
Phartz
Pat Thompson
Just the other day I found out one little "gotcha" with the very well written procedure for doing this. I bought my bike used and it came with the little plate that contains two powerlet outlets down on the left side, just next to the preload adjuster. (I believe this is an official Honda accessory.) This little plate is mounted to the two 10mm headed bolts that hold the PLA and then tucks in to that little "corner" of the frame. Bottom line is it blocks any sort of easy access to the two bolts holding the adjuster (and itself) on. I got it done but it seriously lengthened the time involved while i pied around with every swively wierd tool I could find in my garage. Got to thinking it might have been easier to do earlier while I had the wheel off for a tire change. :
Just a heads up for those with this optional powerlet plate.
Got to thinking it might have been easier to do earlier while I had the wheel off for a tire change. :Just a heads up for those with this optional powerlet plate.
I refilled the adjuster on the new shock today. I had some gunk in it, so I filled and push it back out about three times. I was going to replace the shock today, but after looking at it, I think I'll wait for the rear tire to get replaced and do it then.
I had to remove the rear tire to change Cindy's shock.
I have removed the shock with the rear wheel in place and also with wheel removed. Makes no difference except you do have more room to work with both hands working the shock in & out of place with the wheel off. I found the part that gets in the way the most is the battery tray but even it does not have to be removed.
If I get enough time on my hands, I'll take another look at it!
Wow! This is great. My preload adjuster has been essentially useless since I bought the bike. It would go about 3/4 of the way in before doing anything. So tonight I decided to replace the fluid. I was able to do it in place, without removing anything but the adjuster itself. I cleaned it up, pushed the piston in, flushed it several times with new fork oil, then filled it to the brim with new fluid and put it back on. Now there is pressure at the knob at only 1/2 turn, or the second click. I doubt I'll ever need as much preload as I have available now. Cool! What an easy fix! Thanks everyone for the great info on this forum.
I'll second that.....did it this afternoon......went from 15 clicks to 1/2........have a lifetime supply of jack oil now......the stuff that came out was kinda reminiscient of the first time I changed the rear drive oil.............on another note my Sonic 1.2 springs are supposed to show up on Tuesday..........and then all we'll need is springtime weather.................flyfisher
cola_fiend2003
Great thread. I just flushed and filled my reservoir and get resistance at less than half a turn as opposed to 8-9 turns. Lots of white stuff in the cup it was drained in. 90000kms on the shock. The only problem I am having is where is the hole for the spring and bb??? I see 2 holes opposite each other, but they are too small for the spring to fit in.....help? Post 41 would have been a hit but the pics are not there anymore.
Nevermind.....:
Nevermind.....
:
SoCalST8
Vendor
Followed the instructions and replaced (what little was left) and bleed the fluid. With the preload adjuster on standard setting, as opposed to full firm prior to fluid change, I can actually feel the road now. Thanks for this great thread!
OP
OP
Igofar
Site Supporter
Now since you have fluid in the preload adjuster, and its working as it should, you may want to try and set it on 5 clicks from full soft, or two clicks down from the default setting of 7. Then go to the right side of your bike and adjust the damping setting (screw on bottom of shock mount) all the way in (clockwise) then back it out 1 1/2 turns. The stock default setting is 1 turn out, but most folks find that extra 1/2 turn out (softer) matches the preload adjuster better, and makes for a smoother ride, less wind buffeting, and gets rid of the up and down, rise and fall, when you accelerate or slow down.
YMMV
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