R/H Knock Sensor Wire Harness

bwervers

Joined
Dec 13, 2014
Messages
6
Location
canada
Hey Guys, last summer while riding my 2003 ST 1300 the F1 light came on a few times code 26 which as I have read on here as a R/H knock sensor. This spring I took a look and found the wire to the sensor exposed and melted etc. Question is 1. can it be soldered with out affecting sensor reading? 2. How hard / involved is the replacement of the sub engine wire harness? does anyone have experience with it? Its not expensive but I don't want to have to pull off all the throttle bodies etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
The sensor wire is simply a path for the data from the sensor so I don't believe that soldering would affect anything. I don't believe that there is any ohm value assigned to the the sub-harness.
 
solder and heat shrink should have zero problems from the wire repair. Don't change the entire harness.
 
bwervers said:
Hey Guys, last summer while riding my 2003 ST 1300 the F1 light came on a few times code 26 which as I have read on here as a R/H knock sensor. This spring I took a look and found the wire to the sensor exposed and melted etc. Question is 1. can it be soldered with out affecting sensor reading? 2. How hard / involved is the replacement of the sub engine wire harness? does anyone have experience with it? Its not expensive but I don't want to have to pull off all the throttle bodies etc. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...

bwervers, let us know how it turned out since I also have a similar situation. :)
 
After you do the repair to the wiring harness, if the FI light still gives you the code 26, you will need to replace the ECM, Ask me how I know. Someone has one for sale on this site that was just posted this morning.
 
I had the dreaded 26 code also and spent several months trying many suggestions which included replacing that wiring harness. Parts of the swap were easy and the connections up on top of the vee were difficult. In the end it was the very easy swap of the ECM. I would start there.

Skip
 
You do not need to pull the TBs. Remove the fuel tank, air box, pair canister, and coolant reservoir. Just leave the reservoir and canister dangling by their hoses. The subharness connects on the LH side and connects to both knock sensors and the neutral switch. I just replaced mine for the same reason that it was shedding wire insulation.
 
Hey Guys wire repair definitely doesn't work!! Changed the sub engine wire harness! not a terrible repair but involves neutral switch both knock sensors, oil pressure switch and two others this fixed code. there is a ground shielding wire in the harness so cannot pin out parts of W/H or solder wires. New harness fixes code.
 
bwervers said:
Hey Guys wire repair definitely doesn't work!! Changed the sub engine wire harness! not a terrible repair but involves neutral switch both knock sensors, oil pressure switch and two others this fixed code. there is a ground shielding wire in the harness so cannot pin out parts of W/H or solder wires. New harness fixes code.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the update. Curious about how many miles with RPM above 4000 have been logged on the bike since the harness swap? I've heard of FI light going away after a reset but coming back after 1000 miles or more during hard riding.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom