Race Tech spring installation question

[racer1735]

I received my Race Tech for springs today...cracked open the box and saw two springs about 14 inches in length and a bag containing 16 washers...no spacer. My question is, do I re-use the stock spacer at the stock length? And I read the instructions stating a washer goes where the spring contacts the spacer and where the spacer contacts the fork cap. So that accounts for four washers. What do I use the other 12 for (or is that how I set my preload?

I haven't removed the springs yet...am guessing the stock springs are similar in length?

I was expecting it to be similar to a sonic setup, where I cut a supplied spacer to a certain length...was surprised to see a handful of washers.

 

[racer1735]

Reading a bit further, it sounds as if the washers are the 'shim stack'?? If so, who has installed them (again, haven't opened the forks in a couple years) and can give some input into how many, and where, in each fork leg?

 

[racer1735]

I keep answering my own quesitons (and offer these comment for those who haven't done this procedure and may not know....for those of you that do, sorry for the repeat)! Talked to Louie at Race Tech and he says I lay the replacement spring next to the original spring. Whatever the difference between the two is, I either cut from the stock spacer, or make up the difference...either by stacking shims (if its a fairly small difference) or cut a new spacer (if its longer). So, I could be using as few as two shims (washers) per fork...or maybe as many as six...more than that and I'll probably go the new spacer route. At this point, I haven't removed the old spring to know whether its long or short?

Louie also suggested 7.5 wt fork oil...which I fortunately have an entirely new, unopened bottle left over from a Ducati suspension swap!

 

[billo]

First things first. The fork caps can be a bear to remove the first time. Work on that while the fork is still on the bike with bar removed and upper clamp loosened. Then worry about the spacer. I ended up taking mine to the dealer. It wouldn't budge.

Bill

 

[racer1735]

First things first. The fork caps can be a bear to remove the first time. Work on that while the fork is still on the bike with bar removed and upper clamp loosened. Then worry about the spacer. I ended up taking mine to the dealer. It wouldn't budge.

Bill

Yep....I've replaced the fluid in the forks previously, so have had the caps off before. Also put antiseize on them to help with the next (now) time.

 

[racer1735]

I talked to Louie at Race Tech and he says I lay the replacement spring next to the original spring. Whatever the difference between the two is, I either cut from the stock spacer, or make up the difference...either by stacking shims (if its a fairly small difference) or cut a new spacer (if its longer). So, I could be using as few as two shims (washers) per fork...or maybe as many as six...more than that and I'll probably go the new spacer route. At this point, I haven't removed the old spring to know whether its long or short?

Louie also suggested 7.5 wt fork oil...which I fortunately have an entirely new, unopened bottle left over from a Ducati suspension swap!

What this doesn't address is preload...at this point, I would have a spring/spacer length identical to the original and would be relying on a stiffer spring rate. But, would that give me the desired preload/sag rate of approx. 30mm? Anyone used Race Tech springs that can tell me how long the spacer and washer stack should be?

 

[billo]

Your weight and the new spring weight will determine what spacer/washer combo to use. The internal anti top-out spring will be compressed more, extending the forks a little, moving your sag reference point. What does that do? Who knows. Mess with it 'till it works.
I weigh 195 geared up, went with the .95 springs and requested the dealer add 1/4" preload over stock. Sag is in the ballpark. I forget the exact measurement. Definitely more stiction with the heavier springs (and I've tried everything).

Bill

 

[racer1735]

Your weight and the new spring weight will determine what spacer/washer combo to use. The internal anti top-out spring will be compressed more, extending the forks a little, moving your sag reference point. What does that do? Who knows. Mess with it 'till it works.
I weigh 195 geared up, went with the .95 springs and requested the dealer add 1/4" preload over stock. Sag is in the ballpark. I forget the exact measurement. Definitely more stiction with the heavier springs (and I've tried everything).

Bill

Bill, you and I weigh about the same, so I'm guessing our setup should be similar. Race Tech told me to cut the spacer/washers and spring to equal the length of the original spring and spacer. If I go with appoximately 1/4" (8-10mm) or preload, should I cut the spacer that much longer? I am accounting for the depth that the fork cap compresses into the fork tube in my calculations.

KJ

 

[billo]

I say follow Racetechs advice and add washers if the sag is too much.
I can't for sure say what the dealers tech did to mine. He had never done forks before and was apprenticing. The fork action didn't seem right so I disassembled them and found he had forgotten the washers. One spacer had slid over the spring, the other was (thankfully) still holding the bike up. Did he cut the spacers to equal the original length + 1/4 sans washers or with washers? shrug.

Bill

 

[wjbertrand]

The OEM springs already have some preload, about 3/4" worth. If you cut your Race Tech spacers so that the overall length of the spring-spacer-washer stack is the same as OEM, you will have the same 3/4" of preload already built in. Cutting the spacer longer will result in additional preload. I would start with Race Tech's recommendation and then make adjustments from there if needed either by cutting the spacers further or making new, longer ones.