Rear ABS Sensor Ring Binding With Dust Sleeve

Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
25
Age
63
Location
Essex UK
Rear wheel went in and out easily and spun nicely before. But I recently replaced the nasty rusted sensor ring with a good one and now I can't tighten everything up without the ring binding with the plastic sleeve thing on the hub. I've tried loosening the shaft housing nuts and tightening the axle first but no joy. The pic shows how out of kilter it is -tending to bind at the bottom.
Would persuasion with a rubber mallet help align it or is there a proper technique to line it all up?
The bike is nonABS but came with ABS hub and wheel, I could just remove the sensor ring I guess but it would leave a gap and it would still be out of line anyway I guess.
 

Attachments

jfheath

John Heath
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 18, 2006
Messages
2,854
Age
70
Location
Ilkley, W Yorkshire, UK
Bike
2013 ST1300 A9
2024 Miles
000679
STOC #
2570
It suggests that there is something wrong.

I can't see anything wrong in the photo - except the bolts for the pulsar ring my catch on the plastic - which isn't correct. Does that suggest that the wheel is too far towards the right hand side ? If so, my suspicion would be to check the thrust washer. This sits between the bearing and the flange set. It often stick to one side or the other, so if you aren't paying attention you may not notice it, and you are less likely to notice it when it drops onto the floor and goes hunting for a hiding place. It is not normally disturbed by just removing the wheel - it requires the spline to be removed fromt he cush rubbers - but that isn't to say that the person who put in the ABS rear wheel / final drive didn't forget about it.

If it is missing it will make the wheel hub sit closer to the final drive - like yours is. I don't recall needing a rubber mallet to put it back !!

SHort of any other information, this is only a guess - but since someone has changed the final drive and rear wheel, it is worth considering.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 19, 2013
Messages
297
Location
Chatham, Ontario, Canada
Bike
2003 ST1300A
Granted mine is a 1300 and not the 1100, but mine is grey exposed aluminum I'd guess and looks a bit thinner, to my eye. Has this been painted or all of the 1100 ones black?
 
Joined
Sep 4, 2013
Messages
8,167
Location
Cleveland
Bike
2010 ST1300
If your old and new sensor rings looked identical, and the old one fit perfectly, you are the culprit. Like John (both of them), said, it sounds like a spacer or thrust washer (or lack of same) is positioning the wheel incorrectly.
 

The Cheese

Did you leave out the distance collar? Is the pulsar ring the same thickness?

I don't think the thrust washer would cause this. Afterall I've see wheels very worn in that spot and they did not seem to hurt it any. Least not letting it go too far into the final drive.

Once you figure out this issue be sure to realign the final drive and wheel. Loosen the 4 nuts holding the final drive to the swing arm. Then install the wheel. Tighten the four nuts.
 

Slydynbye

Will ride for Pie
Joined
Sep 3, 2007
Messages
1,624
Location
Fremont, California
Bike
2000 ABSII
STOC #
7331
Check the width of the sensor ring, I Think there might be a difference between ABS1 and ABS2.
I know when I tried to swap an ABS1 wheel onto my ABS2 Bike it bound just like that. Uncle Phil had the same problem but figured it out. I don't remember what he did .
 
OP
OP
Phil TK
Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
25
Age
63
Location
Essex UK
It suggests that there is something wrong.

I can't see anything wrong in the photo - except the bolts for the pulsar ring my catch on the plastic - which isn't correct. Does that suggest that the wheel is too far towards the right hand side ? If so, my suspicion would be to check the thrust washer. This sits between the bearing and the flange set. It often stick to one side or the other, so if you aren't paying attention you may not notice it, and you are less likely to notice it when it drops onto the floor and goes hunting for a hiding place. It is not normally disturbed by just removing the wheel - it requires the spline to be removed fromt he cush rubbers - but that isn't to say that the person who put in the ABS rear wheel / final drive didn't forget about it.

If it is missing it will make the wheel hub sit closer to the final drive - like yours is. I don't recall needing a rubber mallet to put it back !!

SHort of any other information, this is only a guess - but since someone has changed the final drive and rear wheel, it is worth considering.
The bolts are the correct torx ones and arn't sitting proud of the ring -they are countersunk.
I had two thrust washers in the box of bits, one plastic which I fitted, plus a metal one. But I think this problem is one of alignment rather than spacing, the sensor ring clears the plastic by about 2mm at it's top (see picture) and is in contact with the plastic at the bottom.
I'm wondering if the hub has jiggle room (if the bolts are loosened) and can be aligned to the wheel before tightening up. A mallet will probably jiggle it if hit hard enough but I'm hoping that someone has experienced this problem and has a better method.
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,366
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
006717
STOC #
698
There is a slight machining difference between the ABSII hub and the standard hub that will make an ABSII wheel lock down tight on a standard rear end. I don't know about an ABSI rear or not. Something is not right and I would not start 'hammering' until I figured it out. It sounds like the pins are not fitted evenly into the hub causing the out of alignment. Removing the ring should not hurt anything since it's not an ABS.
 
OP
OP
Phil TK
Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
25
Age
63
Location
Essex UK
Check the width of the sensor ring, I Think there might be a difference between ABS1 and ABS2.
I know when I tried to swap an ABS1 wheel onto my ABS2 Bike it bound just like that. Uncle Phil had the same problem but figured it out. I don't remember what he did .
Ah, I just read Uncle Phil's reply and I think we are on to something. I guess removing the ring will sort it out. I disposed of the old ring so can't compare thickness with the new one.
 
OP
OP
Phil TK
Joined
May 9, 2019
Messages
25
Age
63
Location
Essex UK
There is a slight machining difference between the ABSII hub and the standard hub that will make an ABSII wheel lock down tight on a standard rear end. I don't know about an ABSI rear or not. Something is not right and I would not start 'hammering' until I figured it out. It sounds like the pins are not fitted evenly into the hub causing the out of alignment. Removing the ring should not hurt anything since it's not an ABS.
There is a slight machining difference between the ABSII hub and the standard hub that will make an ABSII wheel lock down tight on a standard rear end. I don't know about an ABSI rear or not. Something is not right and I would not start 'hammering' until I figured it out. It sounds like the pins are not fitted evenly into the hub causing the out of alignment. Removing the ring should not hurt anything since it's not an ABS.
Yes, I'm generally adverse to bashing motorcycle parts myself.
Time to double check the hub and wheel assembly and if all is well then remove the ring. At the moment the wheel spins nicely on the hub if it isn't tightened up enough to foul the plastic.
 

Uncle Phil

Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 26, 2007
Messages
11,366
Age
71
Location
In The Holler West Of Nashville, Tennessee
Bike
4 ST1100(s)
2024 Miles
006717
STOC #
698
Yes, I'm generally adverse to bashing motorcycle parts myself.
Time to double check the hub and wheel assembly and if all is well then remove the ring. At the moment the wheel spins nicely on the hub if it isn't tightened up enough to foul the plastic.
That's exactly the way my standard worked with an ABSII wheel with the ring.
It would spin nicely, but once I torqued it to spec, you couldn't turn it.
That's when I carefully examined the rear hubs since I have both models.
 
Top Bottom