Rear axle nut what size socket needed ??

Gene

Gene

That's MR CUPCAKE to you!
Joined
Apr 19, 2005
Messages
696
Location
Brunswick, MD
I remover my rear axle for a tire change and used a standard socket I had laying around but I want the correct metric to be able to torque it correctly at reassembly. I know take the nut to the store with me, I forgot it on the kitchen table

THANKS GENE
 
Hi Gene,

I decided to just buy a 27mm combination wrench. A 27mm socket requires a 1/2 rachet. Not a big deal if you're at home but I carried mine along so I decided on the wrench.

Regardless if you use a socket or a wrench try to get a 6 point. The 12 point eats up the nut.

Curt
 
ChipSTer said:
Isn't harder to get the proper torque with a wrench? :confused:
:cool:
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Torque? What the hell is that? Oh yeah, that's the point right before you snap the bolt or strip the threads. ;)

I don't use a torque wrench most of the time. Only for gasketed areas and other touchy things like that. I'm not trusting a book to tell me how tight my axle should be. I'll make that decision myself.

Curt
 
crazykz said:
Torque? What the hell is that? Oh yeah, that's the point right before you snap the bolt or strip the threads. ;)

I don't use a torque wrench most of the time. Only for gasketed areas and other touchy things like that. I'm not trusting a book to tell me how tight my axle should be. I'll make that decision myself.

Curt
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Curt,

I'm real surprised to read that from someone as savvy as yourself. Torque specs are actually very often important to the correct opperation of components in relation to each other as well as the saftey aspects. A bolt that is too tight can place you in as much danger as one that's too lose. I agree with you when it comes to things like fairing screws and oil filters etc. but a rear axle? I would make absolutely sure it was tightened accurately according to the torque specs.

Regards,
 
Burger said:
Curt,

I'm real surprised to read that from someone as savvy as yourself. Torque specs are actually very often important to the correct opperation of components in relation to each other as well as the saftey aspects. A bolt that is too tight can place you in as much danger as one that's too lose. I agree with you when it comes to things like fairing screws and oil filters etc. but a rear axle? I would make absolutely sure it was tightened accurately according to the torque specs.

Regards,
Click to expand...

When it comes to electrical I'm more savvy. When it comes to the mechanics of things, I may be anal but, I'm pretyy much a hack. Note taken. I'll consider the torque wrench next time.

I had a bad expierence where a mechanic said he torqued the nut to the books spec. Halfway to West Virginia a nearly lost the wheel.

Curt
 
Reserecting this thread because I need assistance ( what's new? !) ....

I found an 11/16" socket was "almost" right when I went to take off the axil bolt on my '07 ST1300. BUT, with the help of this thread I'll get a 6pt / 27MM socket or wrench.

My question : I was unable to budge the nut using my 12" long socket wrench. Will a cheat bar tield enough leverage to "break loose" the nut or is there a better option for someone with few tools? I don't own( yet) and impact wrench.

While I'm here and begging for help... even though I have the shop manual.... this instruction confused me ; " remove the bolt and remove the caliper" . Well, isn't the correct bolt to remove the one that actually removes the metal bracket that the caliper attaches to and not just the caliper itself? It seems that "bracket", if not removed, would not leave enough room to slide the wheel assembly toward the left and disconnect from the hub on the right side.

A lot of words to describe what 1 sentence says in the manual, but this is the 1st time I'm doing this myself @ home and not @ a fellow ST owners member who has a garage full of tools and a lot of experience :)

THANKS and please be gentle (lol).
 
You have to remove the caliper stopper bolt then the axle then you can move the caliper aftter it has been moved you can remove the wheel.
 
Gilly57 said:
I found an 11/16" socket was "almost" right when I went to take off the axil bolt on my '07 ST1300. BUT, with the help of this thread I'll get a 6pt / 27MM socket or wrench.
Click to expand...


I think what you meant to say was an 1-1/16" (One and one-sixteenths inch vs eleven-sixteenths) ;)

A cheater bar can help. That nut can be a bear sometimes mainly because I generally have to also hold the other end of the axel with an allen wrench to keep it from spinning. A good whack with a hammer will also work although your socket wrench might not appreciate it.
 
Scooter said:
I think what you meant to say was an 1-1/16" (One and one-sixteenths inch vs eleven-sixteenths) ;)

A cheater bar can help. That nut can be a bear sometimes mainly because I generally have to also hold the other end of the axel with an allen wrench to keep it from spinning. A good whack with a hammer will also work although your socket wrench might not appreciate it.
Click to expand...

CORRECT and thanks ! I'll get my eyes checked before the end of the year :) 1 1/16
 
SteveST1300 said:
You have to remove the caliper stopper bolt then the axle then you can move the caliper aftter it has been moved you can remove the wheel.
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Steve....THANK YOU ! Makes more sense now to those of us ( me specifically) who don't want to admit being as mechanically challenged as I am. The cold snap we're in has come an an opportune time for me to be without my STeed for a few days.
 
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