Rear brake adjustment question

[Erdoc48]

I purchased (on eBay, so made in China) Goldwing foot pegs, thinking they might ‘feel’ different on the 1100. I installed them easily enough (and already have a peg lowering kit), but the first time I took a ride with them on, I realized the rear brake pedal level was too high, and I had to reach up quite high to step on the pedal. I removed the right metal panel with the foot pegs on and see the rod that pushes the (not sure what it’s called- proportioning valve maybe?) but it sends fluid to the rear caliper to activate it. The only area I see is what appears to be a thinner nut on the rod and on top of this is a normally thicker nut, I assume the top one is a lock nut and the bottom one is the adjustable. It appears there’s only like 2-3 thread pitches of adjustment and I can’t access the lower nut as it’s quite thin (and the open wrench I was using can’t get on that. Any ideas (old threads on here no longer have the pics available)- is it non adjustable? I gave up and put my OEM pegs back on and I really never had an issue with shifting / braking with those. I bought the GW pegs thinking they would make more of a difference, but I guess I didn’t notice any. Is adjustment possible on the 1300 but not the 1100?

Thanks for any replies.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Any ideas (old threads on here no longer have the pics available)- is it non adjustable?

John suggests that it is easier to get to if you remove the fuel tank.

Brake pedal at-rest positioning | ST1100-Brakes

Hey, gang. On my '01 non-ABS ST1100, the brake pedal sits too high for my foot to easily swing onto it. With my long legs, my toes point downward a bit, and I have to lift my heel off the peg a bit to get my toe onto the pedal. My '96 Nighthawk 750 has a bolt and locknut that adjusts the pedal...

www.st-owners.com

 

[SMSW]

I put GW pegs on my 1300 and found them more comfortable because they were wider than the standard pegs. They were otherwise identical in position. At the time, the guy leading rides for our club liked a gravel road section on each ride, and sometimes I stood up on the pegs.

Clearly the 1100's positioning is slightly different.

 

[Erdoc48]

Thanks for the answers (and the link)- I read that one before, but I guess I‘m not understanding the mechanism how to alter the position of the clevis as in that link. I might attempt it again, maybe not (back is hurting quite a bit after changing the fork oil and the steering head bearings- takes me a bit longer to get stuff done on the bike, but it does get done happily).

 

[Andrew Shadow]

The bottom U-shaped part is called a brake rod joint. It connects to the brake pedal assembly. This part is threaded to accept the threaded vertical push rod that goes to the master cylinder- what you referred to as a proportioning valve. The bottom nut that is against the U-shaped joint is the lock-nut. The top nut is for turning the rod.

Loosen the bottom nut and turn the rod as required to adjust the pedal. I haven't had an ST1100 since 2008 so this is from memory, but I think that the rod connects to the pedal behind the pedals pivot point. If that is correct, screwing the rod further in to the U-shaped joint will lower the pedal.

 

[Erdoc48]

I think you have it exactly. The only problem I was having is that I can’t fit my wrench onto the lower nut. I will probably try to reinvestigate at some point. Thank you for the assistance.

 

[Slydynbye]

oops deleted

 

[Erdoc48]

I think the responses were specific to the brake pedal, not the shifter. Anyway, I took it for a shakedown ride today and it runs as expected (great!). I’m going to stay with my OEM pegs as I can pivot the foot more easily than on a larger (albeit not a huge difference) foot peg- brake and shifter levers are in the proper position relative to the foot peg. Thanks for all the help. I may post them in the classifieds (I have 2 sets), or maybe just put them in the free section (my loss, someone else’s gain).