Rear Tire Dragging

SMSW said:
I think Larry did not realize you are having a new problem and just posted it in an old similar thread.
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Yes I agree. I was responding to gunsmoker’s post from yesterday. My landing page for ST-O just shows new posts since my last visit.
 
dduelin said:
After a good ride come to a stop using front and rear brake. Put the bike up on the center stand and start the engine with the gearbox in neutral. The rear wheel should begin to slowly rotate on its own - it's normal. If it doesn't the rear brake is dragging and the cause must be determined.

On the center stand press or carefully lever the caliper to the right so as to separate the brake pads from the brake rotor. Make sure the inboard and outboard pads are not touching the brake rotor. Start the engine and with gearbox in neutral it is entirely normal for the rear wheel to slowly rotate. If you stop it by dragging your hand on the tire (no brake) it should begin to spin again when released. Not spinning slowly and evenly is a likely indicator of a worn or failing U-joint.
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On my bike the wheel rotates on its own when started cold. But does not rotate on its own after a ride when the bike is warm. Although, I am able to spin it a little more than 1.5 turns at any time (hot or cold). Does this sound about normal.

Also FWIW, even after a long ride I am able to keep my fingers on any disc with burning or discomfort.
 
etalors said:
On my bike the wheel rotates on its own when started cold. But does not rotate on its own after a ride when the bike is warm. Although, I am able to spin it a little more than 1.5 turns at any time (hot or cold). Does this sound about normal.

Also FWIW, even after a long ride I am able to keep my fingers on any disc with burning or discomfort.
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Yes, normal behavior. Glad you are not asking about a person though....:rofl1:
 
etalors said:
On my bike the wheel rotates on its own when started cold. But does not rotate on its own after a ride when the bike is warm. Although, I am able to spin it a little more than 1.5 turns at any time (hot or cold). Does this sound about normal.

Also FWIW, even after a long ride I am able to keep my fingers on any disc with burning or discomfort.
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Yes sounds OK, the nominal viscosity of the oil and how how much the oil has sheared down can have an effect on whether it drags when it’s warm or not.
 
I realized that I couldn't "spin" the back wheel by hand to the extent that it would continue moving after I took my hand off of it.
I could only make it roll while I pushed on it I couldn't get it to spin even a quarter or half a turn once my hand was off of it?
Seriously?
Then you stated that you may not even have a problem?
I would strongly urge you to stop riding the bike until you sort this out, before the bike decides to pitch you off, or damage more stuff.
 
Another data point: At Larry's suggestion while cruising home the other day I pulled the clutch in to feel how much the bike slowed down when it lost thrust (but yet there was no engine compression to add to my deceleration). No brake use either.

RESULT: It did not seem that I was slowing down much... I did this on level ground cruising in fourth gear at about 50 MPH.
 
Moot point.
730 pounds of rolling motorcycle will over power even the worst dragging brakes.
The only way you’re going to be able to inspect and properly test things, is to do it by the book.
Test the SMC, while on the centerstand, gentle pressure forward should lock the rear wheel, releasing pressure should allow it to spin a couple full turns with one push of your foot or hand.
Yet you say the wheel stops turning when your hand leaves the tire.
Something is seriously wrong, yet you keep riding the bike?
Did anyone else notice the inner edge of the piston?
How it’s clean at an angle?
Makes me think either the inner seals went south, or something is crooked for it to be at that angle.
 
Well, my trusted ST Mechanic in the northern half of Georgia is busy for a while, and I really want to do some riding this fall so it looks like I get with one of my brothers from the Christian Motorcyclists Association (who's been riding Honda Gold-Wings for years and was the service manager of a Honda automobile dealership) ...

... and get the service book out and see what we can accomplish in my garage--
or his.


PS: I just tried to give the rear tire a spin this afternoon by hand as it sat in my cold garage up on the center stand. The wheel did not continue moving at all after my hand left the rubber. I could turn the wheel by hand, of course, without much difficulty, but it wasn't free rolling enough to continue rotating on its own.
 
And no doubt your going to probably try and ride it over there, and let someone who does not own or ride an ST1300, but worked at a Honda automotive dealership try and figure your brake system out?
And so the destruction begins
 
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Yes, rode it 4 miles there. Then a couple hours later and after lunch, rode it 5 miles home.

What we did was take off the brake caliper (required pulling the rear axle to loosen the wheel, and taking the mufflers off of both sides),

cleaned everything in that rear brake system, but without draining or flushing fluids. We checked the movement of the pistons which were fine. The brake pads still looked good.

A PROBLEM: but the slider pins had old lubricant encrusted onto them, and they were also scratched up for some reason.
So we polished those by hand with some Emery cloth lube them up, make sure everything else fit in there was clean and greased, then reassembled it.

IT SEEMED TO WORK: I could then spin the rear wheel one full rotation after this work, whereas I could not make it spin at all on its own prior to disassembly--meaning as soon as I took my hand off the wheel, as soon as the propulsion stopped, the wheel would stop too.



THE FIX DIDN'T LAST: Back home, 5 miles later, in my garage, I popped it up on the centerstand and repeated this experiment.
Now I could only spin it 1/3 of a rotation!! (??)


Temperature readings:
On the way to the mechanic's house this morning riding in 35° air temperatures I stopped twice to check the brake rotor both by hand and with a LASER non-contact thermometer. I got readings of around 92 I think 102 Fahrenheit. My bare hand could touch the rear brake rotor for about one second before I had to pull away the front brake rotor was just warm not hot.

On the way back from the mechanics house, well I didn't stop to check the temperature but the air was noticeably warmer like 58 maybe 60°F. As soon as I got home I hopped off the bike and felt the rear brake rotor with my hand --it was hot; it felt just as hot as it did this morning.
My laser thermometer said it was hotter:
120° at first, but within seconds it cooled to 100 and then down into the 90s.

The front rotor was still just barely warm something like 85°F.


"HOUSTON, WE [still] HAVE A PROBLEM!"
 
Wheel dragging so bad it won’t spin without help…..let’s ride it some more…..find scratches…..let’s sand it…..let’s ride it some more….then surprised when a dragging rotor is hot after riding it? :rofl1:
If you found scratches, it’s telling you something was misaligned, I’m sure sanding didn’t help or fix it.
Probably damaged further when you kept riding it despite everyone’s advice not too.
My guess is your guide dowl was probably bent, and damaged, and both/all your rubber grommets need to be inspected now.
As well as al the spring clips you may have bent.
Improper wheel assembly could have caused this also.
Too much grease will cause suction and binding, and the wrong type of grease will cause damage to the rubber and cause swelling.
Using spray brake cleaner will also cause damage to the rubber.
 
Igofar said:
...let someone who does not own or ride an ST1300, but worked at a Honda automotive dealership ...
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Somebody who's been riding motorcycles for 50 years most of them Hondas because he worked for Honda in the service department all that time, and somebody who has owned at least one Gold Wing constantly over the last 30 years .. and one 2003 year ST 1300...
 
And how did having a service manager at an automobile dealership work out for you?
Again, for your safety, and safety of your bike, you should stop riding it until someone can look at it who knows what their doing, or your just going to damage more stuff.
Did you, or he, replace the rear wheel back on in the correct sequence?
 
Wow, that is one filthy bike!!! I wouldn't be proceeding any further without first rebuilding that caliper, or at least removing, inspecting and cleaning those pistons before seal damage occurs. I suspect that the rear piston seal may already be damaged and who knows, the pistons could be damaged as well. After cleaning the rear end up, one has to assume the front needs attention as well. Trying to solve a problem with caliper(s) looking like that could have you chasing your tail for quite a while. Honestly, I would question any mechanic that didnt raise alarm bells at the sight of that caliper and not go any further until that was addressed. :twocents1:
 
I have an 05 ST (that I bought new in 06) and new posts or old, I like em all. I only have 34K on the bike, other than a little rotating rumble when I let out the clutch in neutral, the bike is like brand new….I once read that the only problem that Honda had with the ST 1300’s was that they lasted too long. Personally, I do not see that as a problem :)
 
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