It looks liike the aluminum inserts in the rubber grommets were working against the aluminum standoffs in the wheel rounding them over and wearing the surrounding aluminum down about .005" (measured with depth micrometer).
When the aluminum inserts are inserted in the gromet i have to push them out with my finger (they are not loose or wiggly when inserted). Nothing on the rubber looks worn.
This is the first time the wheel has ever been serviced in this fashion, w/ 33K on the clock
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The first question is what caused this to happen? Could they have never been inserted properly at the factory build? Or do they have the tendency to work back towards the inside of the wheel?
Can I just bond the aluminum insterts into the rubber and/or but a peice of abrasion resistant plastic between the aluminum insert and wheel hub to prevent this again.
Mine does the same thing, and it's always on one side as shown in your pics. Even after getting new rubbers and inserts. The aluminum inserts want to work their way back into the wheel. I "realigned" the rear end by loosening the 4 bolts and retightened as was suggested here by George and others. Didn't seem to resolve it. Last two tire changes I cut some pieces of a very heavy gasket material and put a piece in each depression in the wheel for some protection. Seemed to take some of the rubbing abuse that the wheel had been getting.
I'd love to solve this as well.
I think Rob Parker can shed light on this but I think when they went to a plastic shim (you do have the shim, right?), it wound up reducing the clearance somewhat. I have heard that two stacked metal shims can solve this. Was this also caused by a misaligned pumpkin (rob?)
Paul-
This is not an uncommon problem that can be caused by the dampers and inserts becoming worn beyond their limits. I discovered the dampers rubbing on my bike at 26K miles. You can see what mine looked like here. The dampers and inserts are wear items and should be replaced periodically. The rubber will wear down and the holes in the inserts will become elongated. In my circumstance I think the existing dampers and inserts had been in place too long. I didnt know anything about them at the time and only discovered the issue when another forum member suggested I check them when I was doing some other maintenance on the bike. I dont know that there is a specified interval for replacing them. The important thing is to check them periodically. But keep in mind that you you cant judge them on the outward appearance alone. You have to pull them out of the wheel cavities. The first time I inspected mine the outward appearance was fine and they were snug in the cavities. I almost didnt pull the dampers out because everything looked OK but my curiosity got the best of me since I had the wheel apart so took them out just to see. Good thing I did because I discovered a very similar wear pattern on the wheel that yours is exhibiting. Since that time I inspect the dampers at every rear tire change after the current set of dampers gets aroung 15K - 20K miles on them. Since I started following that practice I have not had any more unusual wear between the dampers and the wheel. If you follow the practice of changing the dampers on a regular basis starting now and in the future and you see additional wear patterns on the hub and the dampers are not worn beyond their limits you may have another issue as well such as final drive alignment. I havent experienced that but YMMV.
I think I'll purchase 5 new grommets and Al inserts - $123 from Service Honda - is anywhere else cheaper for these? Too bad K/L didn't make them for expense reasons. There was a lot of "rubber dust" that i cleaned out. When i pulled the grommets i couldn't pull them with my fingers but a small screwdriver and a single light pry on each end of the grommet popped them out easily - perhaps they should have been a bit tigher.
I do have the thrust washer -it is a metal one. I suppose this is to elimimnate axial clearance when the axel is tightened up. I could see how axal movement of the spider would push the insert around and since they can't go in - well they would move out.
Regarding putting 2 thrust washers in I would want to know the stackup tolerance for the assembly or else it could create another issue. Does anyone know why two washers is acceptable.
Even with the new grommets/inserts I'm still a bit nervous about this whole setup - I like the idea of backside shim to hold the insert in plan - UHMW PE (ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) is extremely durable and abrasion resistance
Regarding putting 2 thrust washers in I would want to know the stackup tolerance for the assembly or else it could create another issue. Does anyone know why two washers is acceptable.
I have never heard of anyone doing this and to be honest about it I dont know why anyone would. All that is specified is the one thrust washer. Perhaps someone who is mechanically inclined can provide an answer. FWIW, all I have ever used is the one nylon thrust washer.
BTW, did you check all 3 O-rings in the rear wheel assembly since you have it apart?
Looks like Zannottie's beats all of them by about $20 for grommets, inserts + front/rear OEM pads at $220 out the door.
I had allready ordered the 3 Orings + Honda Moly from the local dealer at the tune of 3 wks before i started in - add on another week now! Wish the local dealer was reasonably priced. Add $75 more, if buying from the local dealer!
On my '95, ST11 (72K, owned 1 yr) I found the same during a tire change and did something similar to resolve (for now) except I used some cut up pieces of an old bicycle inner tube. It's clear that the lips on the rubber drive cushions simply aren't keeping the aluminum inserts in place. I can't see dropping $120+ to replace all that stuff and 2500 miles later all is well so far. I'll check them again at the next tire change.
Regards,
Mr. BR
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