Rebuilding rear brakes questions

[DaveM]

Mike, hope you meant LEFT muffler. If it was the right, yur axle is in backwards. (1300 goes left to right but 1100 goes in right to left.).

George, not sure if I am understanding you right... but my axle on my '91 1100 goes in left to right, the bolt is on the right side. Did they change that over the years? But you are right on the LEFT muffler!

 

[George]

On the 1100, the nut is on the right, axle passes in/out left to right, so ya have to move the left muffler to remove it. Not supposed to need to as the "divot" in the bottom should let it pass. But...

On the 1300, the nut is on the left, axle passes in/out on the right. The right mufflers do NOT have a divot so ya have to swing the right muller out'a the way.

Some (don't know how many) of us with 1100s now find the muffler has subsided enuff ya can't get the axle out without moving the left muffler.

Not a criticism of your OP, just wanna make sure we're both saying the same thing...

 

[Mountain Mike]

On the 1100, the nut is on the right, axle passes in/out left to right, so ya have to move the left muffler to remove it. Not supposed to need to as the "divot" in the bottom should let it pass. But...

On the 1300, the nut is on the left, axle passes in/out on the right. The right mufflers do NOT have a divot so ya have to swing the right muller out'a the way.

Some (don't know how many) of us with 1100s now find the muffler has subsided enuff ya can't get the axle out without moving the left muffler.

Not a criticism of your OP, just wanna make sure we're both saying the same thing...

Yeah, it was a mix up. I ended up having to unbolt both mufflers. The right one to get the socket in, and the left one to get the axle out. I think they settle down in those rubber bushings.

 

[Rossi]

My 2000 ST1100 has no issues with muffler clearance when removing the axle or the nut.

And if it did, I would unbolt the shock and drop the wheel down 1/2" or so before removing any mufflers.

 

[George]

It's easier to move the muffler, Rossi, than unbolt the shock. Ya don't have to REmove the muffler, just remove the rear hanger bolt and loosen the two clamp bolts, it'll swing out of the way. That's recommended method on the 13 anyway.

Shouldn't be necessary but both Dan Folle and I have tried to figure out what's sagging and havent' found it yet.

 

[DaveM]

I have no sagging yet...must come with age

 

[broc11]

Does anyone know the Part number for a set of rear caliper seals for the ST1100ay?

 

[broc11]

Thanks John,
It's a bit complicated for me on lings site,it's asking you to add the parts individually,problem is I don't know what parts I need.
I see it in kit form on davidsilva and wemoto, but they are not genuine parts,could be just as good as oem though for all I know.
If those are the correct seals for the rear caliper I'll take them John,you would know better than me.

 

[ST1100Y]

For ID-ing the correct part numbers/sets for your motorcycle http://www.cmsnl.com/ can come quite handy, where one can actually type in the VIN, or frame- and engine numbers.

 

[broc11]

06431-MA3-405 qty 2 required $4.54 (rear)

this is what the parts guy at partzilla told me I need to rebuild the rear caliper? and he's looking at the honda diagram,doesn't seem right to me

 

[ST1100Y]

Is this any clearer?



See: http://www.pan-europe.utvinternet.ie/parts/brake_caliper_rear_absII.htm
(another excellent site IMHO)

 

[broc11]

Thanks,yes that is very clear,now if I knew which parts I need from that list I'd be flying!!

 

[broc11]

I think the guy at partzilla was looking at the diagram for the US model,that would explain it.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2000/ST1100+A/REAR+BRAKE+CALIPER+(1)/parts.html

 

[ST1100Y]

That Partzilla fiche is for the wrong (standard) model

Yours is an ABS-II/CBS:
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/2000/ST1100A+A/REAR+BRAKE+CALIPER+%282%29/parts.html

 

[broc11]

Thanks very much,I'll get back on to them and figure it out.