Pictures not showing up BG.
Reclaiming the lost
- Thread starter smartiq
- Start date
FWIW, I see them.
It happened to me (using Chrome on Windows10) I hit the refresh and they appeared after that.
Also if you put the mouse pointer beside one of the non-loading images and you right click you should see the option to "load image"
This did the trick. Thanks.
OP
OP
Hi all,
Spring is blooming in the Pacific Northwest which means I am spending more time on other projects (our porch needs refurbished, my wife and I are riding our other motorcycles, etc). Couple this with the fact many of the parts I ordered for the ST have been back-ordered/delayed and getting stuff done is taking a while. The good news is I had some time this weekend to put a few more things together.
First up I got some shoe polish and put it on the start/kill housing. It needs polished after it dries, but it is drying right now. Thanks for the hint @kiltman!
I FINALLY got the part I needed for the clutch (45518-MB0-006 "stopper plate") so I finished assembling the clutch and installed it back on the ST:
I also cleaned out the switch gear with contact cleaner and install some high-quality Di-electric grease to work some new life into the switchgear.
I reassembled the front brake master cylinder using the Allballs racing kit. Can I just say how happy I am Allballs makes these kits!
I'm currently waiting on parts for the exhaust and the clutch slave. I have the front end/triple clamp mostly reassembled. I haven't installed the swingarm and driveshaft yet as I am waiting until I start it so that I can verify the alternator works. As such I have limited things I could work on today; namely the front brake calipers and the carbs (which have rebuild kits on order).
I decided to clean/prep the front brake calipers; and boy did they need it:
I'm thinking this is the last of the brake fluid snot!
These front brake calipers were some of the worst things I've seen on the bike. The calipers didn't float due to rust in the non-through orficies. I'm going to order some new shafts and grease everything with high temp brake grease. Right now they are soaking in the ultrasonic as I am trying to remove road grime/old fluid/etc. Don't have after pictures yet...
Besides re-assembling the front calipers I think the next "big" thing is cleaning the carburetors. Seems ironic to be one of the last things I fix since it was one of the first things I noticed going wrong.
I'll be honest; I am starting to get excited to have it running again. It will be super exciting to ride again after all these years. The license plate tabs say 2013 :-(
Hope this finds everyone well,
Barry
Spring is blooming in the Pacific Northwest which means I am spending more time on other projects (our porch needs refurbished, my wife and I are riding our other motorcycles, etc). Couple this with the fact many of the parts I ordered for the ST have been back-ordered/delayed and getting stuff done is taking a while. The good news is I had some time this weekend to put a few more things together.
First up I got some shoe polish and put it on the start/kill housing. It needs polished after it dries, but it is drying right now. Thanks for the hint @kiltman!
I FINALLY got the part I needed for the clutch (45518-MB0-006 "stopper plate") so I finished assembling the clutch and installed it back on the ST:
I also cleaned out the switch gear with contact cleaner and install some high-quality Di-electric grease to work some new life into the switchgear.
I reassembled the front brake master cylinder using the Allballs racing kit. Can I just say how happy I am Allballs makes these kits!
I'm currently waiting on parts for the exhaust and the clutch slave. I have the front end/triple clamp mostly reassembled. I haven't installed the swingarm and driveshaft yet as I am waiting until I start it so that I can verify the alternator works. As such I have limited things I could work on today; namely the front brake calipers and the carbs (which have rebuild kits on order).
I decided to clean/prep the front brake calipers; and boy did they need it:
I'm thinking this is the last of the brake fluid snot!
These front brake calipers were some of the worst things I've seen on the bike. The calipers didn't float due to rust in the non-through orficies. I'm going to order some new shafts and grease everything with high temp brake grease. Right now they are soaking in the ultrasonic as I am trying to remove road grime/old fluid/etc. Don't have after pictures yet...
Besides re-assembling the front calipers I think the next "big" thing is cleaning the carburetors. Seems ironic to be one of the last things I fix since it was one of the first things I noticed going wrong.
I'll be honest; I am starting to get excited to have it running again. It will be super exciting to ride again after all these years. The license plate tabs say 2013 :-(
Hope this finds everyone well,
Barry
OP
OP
Memorial day weekend brought rain to the Pacific Northwest. It also brought a transition to my mindset. Since taking the ST apart almost 5 month ago my desires are shifting from enjoying the process to wanting the product. Don't get me wrong, I still want to do a good job, but my wife and I are definitely looking forward to riding the ST again. Couple this fact with the rain and the arrival of more of my parts and I was excited to get into the garage.
When we last left off, the front brakes were a problem. I started by installing the new seals and the new pistons I ordered and reassembling the calipers:
They look so shinny after a good sonic washing. Onto the bike they go:
Since brakes are the thing of the moment, might as well rebuild the rear master cylinder:
My rough goal for the end of Memorial Day Weekend was a rolling chassis again. In order to achieve that goal, I had to remove lots of old grease and apply new grease. This was basically just me following Mike Martin's guide on Swingarm R&R. Lost of grease work, paste work, and Moly grease work.
I have to admit, I was a little apprehensive on how to get the u-joint onto the engine's output shaft, but after sliding the swingarm into place I was able to push on the drive-shaft while wiggling a finger on the u-joint and it slid on pretty easily. I then affixed the new rubber seal over the engine/driveshaft and called it good.
Another job I wasn't excited to tackle was the two broken/rusted bolts that formerly held on the exhaust heat shield. I had tried a blow-torch, penetrating oil, and everything else. I've sunk hours into those busted bolts. Today I decided to just drill and tap it:
Had them fixed in less than 30 minutes. Should have done that days ago.
Around this point in the weekend I got into a rhythm which resulted in much work being accomplished (cleaning/install of the rear drive gear, etc) but I failed to take pictures frequently enough. Next thing I knew I had this:
Rear drive has oil, differential is fully lubed, rear brake slave/master are refitted, front brakes are installed, and it is slowly getting closer to starting.
Todo list:
Hope everyone is well,
BG
When we last left off, the front brakes were a problem. I started by installing the new seals and the new pistons I ordered and reassembling the calipers:
They look so shinny after a good sonic washing. Onto the bike they go:
Since brakes are the thing of the moment, might as well rebuild the rear master cylinder:
My rough goal for the end of Memorial Day Weekend was a rolling chassis again. In order to achieve that goal, I had to remove lots of old grease and apply new grease. This was basically just me following Mike Martin's guide on Swingarm R&R. Lost of grease work, paste work, and Moly grease work.
I have to admit, I was a little apprehensive on how to get the u-joint onto the engine's output shaft, but after sliding the swingarm into place I was able to push on the drive-shaft while wiggling a finger on the u-joint and it slid on pretty easily. I then affixed the new rubber seal over the engine/driveshaft and called it good.
Another job I wasn't excited to tackle was the two broken/rusted bolts that formerly held on the exhaust heat shield. I had tried a blow-torch, penetrating oil, and everything else. I've sunk hours into those busted bolts. Today I decided to just drill and tap it:
Had them fixed in less than 30 minutes. Should have done that days ago.
Around this point in the weekend I got into a rhythm which resulted in much work being accomplished (cleaning/install of the rear drive gear, etc) but I failed to take pictures frequently enough. Next thing I knew I had this:
Rear drive has oil, differential is fully lubed, rear brake slave/master are refitted, front brakes are installed, and it is slowly getting closer to starting.
Todo list:
- Carbs need cleaned and install
- Rear Brake fluid needs added
- Front Brake fluid needs added
- Clutch fluid needs added
- Engine oil needs added
- Coolant needs added
- Carb balance
- Re-install plastic
Hope everyone is well,
BG
BG
In your photos labeled "brake install", I notice your front axle is protruding from the forks quite a bit. Is this just a temporary installation?
The end of the axle should be fairly flush to the side of the fork.
In your photos labeled "brake install", I notice your front axle is protruding from the forks quite a bit. Is this just a temporary installation?
The end of the axle should be fairly flush to the side of the fork.
OP
OP
So it's been a while.
After summer arrived in full force my wife and I hit the road using other motorcycles in our fleet. We put in 8,000+ miles on asphalt, dirt, and everything in between. We got to ride part of the Idaho Back Country Discovery Route (BDR). It was great.
But the ST didn't progress (much).
Today, October 22nd, the Pacific North West decided summer is over. Rain and thunderstorms rolled through all day. Temperatures dropped from 70 on Thursday to 43 on Friday. Time to get back to that ST!
Today was spent cleaning the garage, taking inventory of remaining work, and looking things over.
First up, I removed the old right-side control housing and replaced it with an ebay one. I could never get the starter switch to reliably release. I tried various contact cleaners and other method to "degum" it, but eventually found another housing with a good switch on Ebay for an acceptable cost so I replaced it.
Doesn't look any different, but the start button works way more reliably.
Next up, time to install the rear radiator fluid overflow tank and the rear brake fluid reservoir.
Last thing I did was install the last piece of remaining hose; the left side radiator attachment:
I ordered a few parts I need to install the left-side heat shield. I'm excited it will be ready for spring. Just one more nemesis to attack:
Nemesis might be a strong word; I don't really mind working on Carburetors, but this thing has me a little intimidated. I am NOT going to break them apart (as I've been reading other posts). I'm going to give them a good cleaning, replace the consumables (I have a x4 rebuild kit), bench balance them, install them, and balance them on the bike.
Any words of warning or wisdom are happily accepted from those who have gone before.
Thanks,
Barry
P.S.
@DannoVT - It was a temporary install and has since been torqued. Good eye
!
After summer arrived in full force my wife and I hit the road using other motorcycles in our fleet. We put in 8,000+ miles on asphalt, dirt, and everything in between. We got to ride part of the Idaho Back Country Discovery Route (BDR). It was great.
But the ST didn't progress (much).
Today, October 22nd, the Pacific North West decided summer is over. Rain and thunderstorms rolled through all day. Temperatures dropped from 70 on Thursday to 43 on Friday. Time to get back to that ST!
Today was spent cleaning the garage, taking inventory of remaining work, and looking things over.
First up, I removed the old right-side control housing and replaced it with an ebay one. I could never get the starter switch to reliably release. I tried various contact cleaners and other method to "degum" it, but eventually found another housing with a good switch on Ebay for an acceptable cost so I replaced it.
Doesn't look any different, but the start button works way more reliably.
Next up, time to install the rear radiator fluid overflow tank and the rear brake fluid reservoir.
Last thing I did was install the last piece of remaining hose; the left side radiator attachment:
I ordered a few parts I need to install the left-side heat shield. I'm excited it will be ready for spring. Just one more nemesis to attack:
Nemesis might be a strong word; I don't really mind working on Carburetors, but this thing has me a little intimidated. I am NOT going to break them apart (as I've been reading other posts). I'm going to give them a good cleaning, replace the consumables (I have a x4 rebuild kit), bench balance them, install them, and balance them on the bike.
Any words of warning or wisdom are happily accepted from those who have gone before.
Thanks,
Barry
P.S.
@DannoVT - It was a temporary install and has since been torqued. Good eye
!
I just did a set off a wreck that I bought as a parts bike. Not really too bad of a PITA for me but I have done several 3rd Gen Magna carbs so they are not my first V-4's and I did take them completely apart
Before:
After
The linkage is tricky, take some good pics or notes on the orientation and placement of both the throttle and enrichment (choke) linkages to make sure you can replace them correctly. I was able to get the tiny cotter pins you need for those (1mmX10mm) from Granger.
I had trouble getting the idle screw out of #4 because the throttle blocked the "D" bit I was using from getting in straight enough and I had to use a left hand drill bit to get it out. I had an All Balls rebuild kit and happily that had some slotted idle screws for replacement.
The biggest problem was getting the air cleaner base back on with all the rubber air tubes correctly lined up. I had to leave the two big joint screws and the four plate screws loose, get each rubber base with those little brass tubes going through the correct hole and then temporarily held them in place with an socket head bolt until they were all in place and then I redid each one with the correct screws and lock strip. Unfortunately, after I had it all back together I realized that the choke cable clamp was on opposite side as the choke cable lever and had to do it all over after rotating 180 degrees.
Before:
After
The linkage is tricky, take some good pics or notes on the orientation and placement of both the throttle and enrichment (choke) linkages to make sure you can replace them correctly. I was able to get the tiny cotter pins you need for those (1mmX10mm) from Granger.
I had trouble getting the idle screw out of #4 because the throttle blocked the "D" bit I was using from getting in straight enough and I had to use a left hand drill bit to get it out. I had an All Balls rebuild kit and happily that had some slotted idle screws for replacement.
The biggest problem was getting the air cleaner base back on with all the rubber air tubes correctly lined up. I had to leave the two big joint screws and the four plate screws loose, get each rubber base with those little brass tubes going through the correct hole and then temporarily held them in place with an socket head bolt until they were all in place and then I redid each one with the correct screws and lock strip. Unfortunately, after I had it all back together I realized that the choke cable clamp was on opposite side as the choke cable lever and had to do it all over after rotating 180 degrees.
Smudgemo
Intermodal Man of Mystery
I'd suggest cleaning and reusing the OEM jets as opposed to using some questionable aftermarket bunch from a rebuild kit. Soft wire like copper or nylon will do.
IS screwdrivers are a must, and one with a 90* bend will let you confirm the cutoff valves are not torn. I've done two sets of these and I think the hardest part is getting the plenum bolts loose followed by the screws holding the cover on for the air cutoff valve.
Oh, and make sure you reassemble the linkage correctly. I did one upside down, or backward or something, and found if you twist the throttle enough to clear the fouling, it won't idle back down and the engine will race.
IS screwdrivers are a must, and one with a 90* bend will let you confirm the cutoff valves are not torn. I've done two sets of these and I think the hardest part is getting the plenum bolts loose followed by the screws holding the cover on for the air cutoff valve.
Oh, and make sure you reassemble the linkage correctly. I did one upside down, or backward or something, and found if you twist the throttle enough to clear the fouling, it won't idle back down and the engine will race.
OP
OP
Thanks for the info @Tenmilsocket and @Smudgemo
I think I will pickup something like the Motion Pro 90 Degree Carb Tool. I have some JIS screwdrivers, but my toolkit currently lacks a 90 degree screwdriver.
I'll take lots of "before" pictures and I'll try cleaning the OEM jets. I'll also post some pictures of the insides when I get into it.
Thanks,
BG
I think I will pickup something like the Motion Pro 90 Degree Carb Tool. I have some JIS screwdrivers, but my toolkit currently lacks a 90 degree screwdriver.
I'll take lots of "before" pictures and I'll try cleaning the OEM jets. I'll also post some pictures of the insides when I get into it.
Thanks,
BG
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
OP
OP
I'm not a Carb doctor, but I've seen worse patients before:
The main jet and the slow jet have some "dust" on them. Likely leftovers from evaporated fuel. I didn't see any holes that were plugged. I'll give them a cleaning of course. The bowls contain the same dust-like particles.
I haven't pulled the Pilot screws yet, but at least we know what the inside looks like. I'll clean the bowls/vacuum chamber covers/bodies over the coming days. I'll also check the floats for holes.
Thanks again for the helpful advice and pictures. Appreciate it.
BG
The main jet and the slow jet have some "dust" on them. Likely leftovers from evaporated fuel. I didn't see any holes that were plugged. I'll give them a cleaning of course. The bowls contain the same dust-like particles.
I haven't pulled the Pilot screws yet, but at least we know what the inside looks like. I'll clean the bowls/vacuum chamber covers/bodies over the coming days. I'll also check the floats for holes.
Thanks again for the helpful advice and pictures. Appreciate it.
BG
John OoSTerhuis
Life Is Good!
Haven’t read the whole thread so sorry if this has been posted before. Great stuff by my friend Adam Frymoyer.
John
John
Be careful whth
Be careful with reinstallation of the upper boot clamps. The upper clamp bolt can interfere with throttle linkage travel if they are mislocated.
Be careful with reinstallation of the upper boot clamps. The upper clamp bolt can interfere with throttle linkage travel if they are mislocated.
OP
OP
Wow. Can you believe I've been working on this project for 2 years? I know I'm slow working on background tasks but this is impressive to even me....
So the pacific northwest is warming up. I'm fortunate enough to have other motorcycles to ride, but I decided I really want to take the ST out this summer. As such, time to get the beast happy!
I took a day off work and promised myself I would work all day on it. Recall I left the project with some carburetor parts all over:
Over the past few months I've been cleaning pieces as time allows. Many of the all-metalic parts have been through the ultrasonic cleaner. All I really did was follow the "Carb Removal and Rebuild" thread. Kudos to KoTAOW. I removed and reinstalled the plenum and everything.
I understand the "theory" of how carbs work, but carbs often cause me grief in practice. They love to leak on me, and this set was no different (foreshadowing!).
However; May 11th I got up and went directly to reassembling them. By 11 AM I had everything back together and no extra parts!
The rubber hoses under the carbs were not feeling well. As a matter of fact, most of the hoses are in various stages of shot. I decided to rebuild some of them:
Now we just pop it back on the bike!
Knowing how hard the carbs were to remove, I was worried putting them in would be a pain. Fortunately one of the Youtube videos I watched recommended the "Red Rubber Grease". That stuff is amazing. I put a little on the boots and a little on the carbs and they popped in.
I did the whole "How soon do I start it?" Should I put the air cleaner back or just run it topless? Eventually I decided to put the air cleaner on as I figure it would be good to make sure everything was working:
The little "Sub-air" cleaner disintegrated on touch! I got lucky. I was planning on replacing it. Glad it died when it did and wasn't sucked into the carb.
Time to add engine oil and coolant. Not gonna lie, I was a little apprehensive about starting it. What if it blew up? I replaced the timing belt; what if timing was off? Also I had cut into the harness for the Red wire Bypass. What if that was wrong?
I checked the 40amp Alternator. It wasn't leaking. I checked the positive to negative terminals on the battery connection. It was 150K ohm. That seemed good. Not a short.
I put the new battery beside the bike and hooked it up with jumper cables. That way if something went wrong I had a quick disconnect. I volunteered my wife to be my deadman switch.
Turn on the key; indicator lights on the dash lit up; good sign. Turn on the choke..... Hit start. Cranking but no fire. Expected. Going to take a bit to get fuel into the carbs. Turn the key on and off 3 times. Listen to the fuel pump pump fuel. Crank again. Vroom! I love Honda's. That sound. Sounds awesome. Idled surprisingly well. Take off the choke. Stall. Expected. Overzealous there. Too much too fast. Start again with choke. Idle.
PHEW.
No gas flowing out of the overflow/drail tube. Nice. Smells like fuel though. Maybe just normal carb'ed bike smells? Look under carbs with flashlight. Fuel drips. Drat. Turn off bike. Debug.
Fuel was leaking out the back of the carb and dripping down underneath. Odd to see fuel as high up on the carb as I was seeing it. I pulled the left fuel tube off the back of the carb assembly and looky there:
Tis a problem. Anyone have a recommendation for aftermarket fuel line? Looks like partzilla has the right one but not the left one. I could use regular fuel line but the OEM model holds the splitter in the air at an angle.
SO EXCITED to have it start/run again! I also verified the voltage is about 14.4 volts out of the regulator. Nice!
BG
So the pacific northwest is warming up. I'm fortunate enough to have other motorcycles to ride, but I decided I really want to take the ST out this summer. As such, time to get the beast happy!
I took a day off work and promised myself I would work all day on it. Recall I left the project with some carburetor parts all over:
Over the past few months I've been cleaning pieces as time allows. Many of the all-metalic parts have been through the ultrasonic cleaner. All I really did was follow the "Carb Removal and Rebuild" thread. Kudos to KoTAOW. I removed and reinstalled the plenum and everything.
I understand the "theory" of how carbs work, but carbs often cause me grief in practice. They love to leak on me, and this set was no different (foreshadowing!).
However; May 11th I got up and went directly to reassembling them. By 11 AM I had everything back together and no extra parts!
The rubber hoses under the carbs were not feeling well. As a matter of fact, most of the hoses are in various stages of shot. I decided to rebuild some of them:
Now we just pop it back on the bike!
Knowing how hard the carbs were to remove, I was worried putting them in would be a pain. Fortunately one of the Youtube videos I watched recommended the "Red Rubber Grease". That stuff is amazing. I put a little on the boots and a little on the carbs and they popped in.
I did the whole "How soon do I start it?" Should I put the air cleaner back or just run it topless? Eventually I decided to put the air cleaner on as I figure it would be good to make sure everything was working:
The little "Sub-air" cleaner disintegrated on touch! I got lucky. I was planning on replacing it. Glad it died when it did and wasn't sucked into the carb.
Time to add engine oil and coolant. Not gonna lie, I was a little apprehensive about starting it. What if it blew up? I replaced the timing belt; what if timing was off? Also I had cut into the harness for the Red wire Bypass. What if that was wrong?
I checked the 40amp Alternator. It wasn't leaking. I checked the positive to negative terminals on the battery connection. It was 150K ohm. That seemed good. Not a short.
I put the new battery beside the bike and hooked it up with jumper cables. That way if something went wrong I had a quick disconnect. I volunteered my wife to be my deadman switch.
Turn on the key; indicator lights on the dash lit up; good sign. Turn on the choke..... Hit start. Cranking but no fire. Expected. Going to take a bit to get fuel into the carbs. Turn the key on and off 3 times. Listen to the fuel pump pump fuel. Crank again. Vroom! I love Honda's. That sound. Sounds awesome. Idled surprisingly well. Take off the choke. Stall. Expected. Overzealous there. Too much too fast. Start again with choke. Idle.
PHEW.
No gas flowing out of the overflow/drail tube. Nice. Smells like fuel though. Maybe just normal carb'ed bike smells? Look under carbs with flashlight. Fuel drips. Drat. Turn off bike. Debug.
Fuel was leaking out the back of the carb and dripping down underneath. Odd to see fuel as high up on the carb as I was seeing it. I pulled the left fuel tube off the back of the carb assembly and looky there:
Tis a problem. Anyone have a recommendation for aftermarket fuel line? Looks like partzilla has the right one but not the left one. I could use regular fuel line but the OEM model holds the splitter in the air at an angle.
SO EXCITED to have it start/run again! I also verified the voltage is about 14.4 volts out of the regulator. Nice!
BG
OP
OP
I appreciate this. I watched for it and indeed it would have happened had I not had the warning. Thanks.
Slydynbye
Will ride for Pie
Since you removed the plenum you might have disturbed the seal on the fuel rails between the carbs.
I had the Carbs off and on several times before I found this. if it leaks there you will need to separate the carbs and replace the o-rings.
I had the Carbs off and on several times before I found this. if it leaks there you will need to separate the carbs and replace the o-rings.
Sadlsor
Site Supporter
That's quite the success story.
I am in awe!
Especially after having little parts and parts of parts lying apart for months on end.
Truly a well-planned and executed rebuild. Congratulations are in order.
I am in awe!
Especially after having little parts and parts of parts lying apart for months on end.
Truly a well-planned and executed rebuild. Congratulations are in order.
Can’t believe you were able to get at it after leaving it for so long and to have no parts leftover. Glad you got it started and hope you have found the fuel leak.