Recommend Me a GPS

I observe the general misconception of " *.gpx being a universal/global standard "...
Not quite, as every provider, programmer and manufacturer adds and alters "his/her" *.gpx with additional data; routing info, road classes, average speed info, etc...
And then you've the issue that all work with different map-set/projections, where way-point positions and road layouts differ... (thus always check/recalculate on your map-plotter prior transfer...)

Apparently, Garmin recalculates the route unless you create tracks. I used the tracks conversion feature on the Garmin, but since I didn't create tracks, it recalculated based on start and end.
ST1100Y has a good point. GPX is a file extension and what constitutes a GPX file is ...like the Pirate's Code...a suggestion. ;) :D

And now you understand why I program my routes in the GPS itself instead of transferring them from something else. I've used Kurviger in the past. I like it very much. But even with as simple as it makes to create a route or a track...it is easier not to deal with the variances of how each program or device treats routes/tracks.

I hesitate on letting my GPS recalculate the route. From Brave's search results:
Key routing options and management techniques include:

  • Routing Preferences: Select Faster Time (default), Shorter Distance, or Adventurous (prefers curvy roads and hills) via the Trip Planner or Route Planner.
  • Avoidances: Configure preferences for toll roads, tolls and fees, environmental zones, and unpaved roads in the Navigation Settings, though these may not transfer from imported GPX files.

The point being that if I want the same results in the computer program as within the GPS itself, the routing preferences must be the same, and the avoidances too. For instance, let's say I use Basecamp to plan my route with the default "Faster Time" route preference. And my GPS is set to the same routing preference -- but I have in my Avoidances to avoid "Highways" ...I'll get a different route.

Each program defines "route" and "track" and "shaping points" it seems differently. I would pick one, and then stick with it till you work out what works and what doesn't for you.

Chris
 
I guess I'm just an old GPS 'troglodyte' since I still create my routes in MS Streets & Trips (best routing software ever IMHO).
My simple program I wrote manages the routes and uses GPSBabel to convert them to KML and downloads them to the Chinese GPS.
Other than an occasional waypoint being slightly off (throw it away easy enough with the icon) the GPS takes me where I've told it to go.
A few clicks in my program and everything is converted/copied from the desktop to the GPS and all is well.
I built in an option so I can do that to an entire folder (like for a long trip) with a few clicks.
I have also converted GPX routes into MS Streets & Trips (it has a GPX import function) to look at them.
Then down to the GPS using my program and that seems to work well also.
It has worked for me in the USA, Canada, the UK, Europe and New Zealand so far. ;)
To me, the purpose of a GPS is to get you where you want to go in the path that you want to go with the least amount of effort and hassle.
That is not necessarily a function of money spent but of how well does the software and hardware work.
 
I use my previous generation iPhone with no SIM, the GPS works perfectly, with Apple Maps and downloaded offline maps. The camera OIS was already ruined so I can put on the Xgrip and not worry about that. It B/T to my helmet, runs offline Spotify, and the only thing I'm missing is live traffic updates. If I need that, then i just use my current iPhone and keep in my pocket. I prefer Apple Maps to Google Maps, which have frequently had issues for me..."Unable to load map". Very frustrating. Apple doesn't do that to me and they have greatly improved their product in recent years. Offline maps work perfectly.

But I'm also still a Garmin guy, they just happen to be in storage ATM. I have a number of them that I bought so cheap and downloaded OSM to replace the no longer updating Garmin maps. OSM works perfectly on the old units and they are highly detailed maps.
 
I use my previous generation iPhone with no SIM, the GPS works perfectly, with Apple Maps and downloaded offline maps. The camera OIS was already ruined so I can put on the Xgrip and not worry about that. It B/T to my helmet, runs offline Spotify, and the only thing I'm missing is live traffic updates. If I need that, then i just use my current iPhone and keep in my pocket. I prefer Apple Maps to Google Maps, which have frequently had issues for me..."Unable to load map". Very frustrating. Apple doesn't do that to me and they have greatly improved their product in recent years. Offline maps work perfectly.

But I'm also still a Garmin guy, they just happen to be in storage ATM. I have a number of them that I bought so cheap and downloaded OSM to replace the no longer updating Garmin maps. OSM works perfectly on the old units and they are highly detailed maps.

Can you get turn by turn voice from OSM on Garmin?
 
I create routes in either Garmin Mapsource or Basecamp and download them to the GPS unit as GPX files and off I go.
Based on my experience with iGO, every time I've created a route using third-party software, transferring it to my GPS resulted in a different route than the one I originally created (only the waypoints remained).
When creating a route, I believe that if you force passage on certain roads without systematically creating waypoints, using another navigation app will allow that app to modify the initial route as it sees fit.
The only way to avoid this is to generate a route with a multitude of points from the outset, but at the risk that the GPS won't be able to process it.

I also noticed with OsmAnd that a GPX file can be followed faithfully, or you can choose the option to recalculate the route from the GPX file (you won't necessarily take the exact same roads to get from one point to another, but if you miss a waypoint, it will insist on making you turn around to find it). The moral of the story is, if you want the created route to be followed exactly, absolutely do not use third-party software.
 
Can you get turn by turn voice from OSM on Garmin?
Given that you use a routeable OSM mapset/edition, yes... and quite flawless I might add...
(using OSM on my Quest-I since the demise of Garmin's City Navigator classic (not NT) mapsets in 2009...)
 
I guess I'm just an old GPS 'troglodyte' since I still create my routes in MS Streets & Trips (best routing software ever IMHO).
Over here known as MS AutoRoute Express... unfortunately long discontinued... (last/final US release 2013...)
Yes, it offered [export as *.gpx] but that only gave you bare way-points without any shaping-points, profile, speed or date/time data, thus never computed right in Garmin MapSource...
But I liked the draft if provided to rebuild each single day/leg manually in MapSource...

What I liked in particular (and dearly miss):
- offline plotting tool & map...
- the detailed [start/end day], [flexibility/tank stops], [lunch brake start/end], [average speed/road type] profile...
- the [search POI/category] in XX km aside the route] feature... (it even had the individual internet links avail upon right-click; imagine including booking.com or such into that...)

This was brilliant; intend to go on a round trip across Europe, Scotland, France and back, but have yet not an idea/concept how to/it will fit into your two weeks vacation time?
Easy, plot the whole draft of the intended trip in AutoRoute Express and it will give you a pretty precise idea about how many days & nights it'll take... (including fuel costs if you had entered the numbers)

Have your channel ferry (or car train) tickets/time-tables? Simply add the port/station way-points with [arrive by date/time] and the program will tell you when have to leave home...

Wanna visit some Abby's and Castles along the way? Let AutoRoute display them, right-click on a desired place [add stop to route, time HH:MM]...

Pretty much what I'd expected from Garmin upon their full-bodied advertisement about their all new/better/oh so improved BaseCamp plotting software... pffffff... what a disappointment that was... :cautious:
 
I bought the Garmin 396. It's going back. No electronic device sold today should be this slow with a really awful interface. Not to mention one of the worst instruction pamphlets I've ever seen.

Just as an example, the quick start guide never actually even tells you how to turn it on. Once I figured that out (trial and error), I chose to update the maps. It's going to take over 2 hours connected to WIFI. Like, what?

And I still haven't figured out how to import a GPX file.

I feel like I just bought 1990 technology (maybe I did). Garmin should be embarrassed to still be selling this piece of... um, bad thing.

Sorry - I haven't really been tuning in to this thread - except to find out about UP's Chinese device.

I do not have personal experience of the Zumo 396 - but it isn't going to be that different fromt he Zumo 590 and 595 that came before it, and the Zumo XT and XT2 that followed it. All of them have only slight variations on the same basic method of working.

Years back, after nearly throwing my New Zumo 590 against the nearest brick wall, I decided to do something more useful instead - decided all it needed was to find out how it worked, and write my own documentation. At the time, I used Basecamp - and I still do, but the the process is the same for any gpx file.

If you haven't already sent it back, you might find this file useful. Many other people have.

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Incidentally - A track is one of two things - a breadcrumb trail of points which record every few seconds exactly where you have been. Joined together they form a line which follows the roads on a map, and can be used as a record of where you have been or for transfer to a mapping program or even as a way of flying through the 3-D countryside in Google Earth.
But they can also be aids to navigation. Most route planning software can create tracks.

Think of a track as being like what used to happen when you got a Paper Map Book and a hi-lighter pen before setting off on a tour. You mark the roads that your want to travel with the highlighter pen. You have to keep looking at it, or you have a partner who makes special use of their finger to indicate your progress along the route. The route doesn't change, you don't get instructions, and if you go wrong, you have to work out where you are and get back to it.

A track displayed on the Zumo screen is very much the same - it displays the line on the map - but the map is always centred on your position. If you have strayed away from the track - you can zoom out and scroll around to try and find where you are in relation to the track. It doesn't give you any help or issue any instructions.

A route is different. A route consists of a series of route points which are used to mark places on the map through which you want to travel. the satnav's role is to get you from one point to the next. If you wander away from the plotted route, then (if you allow it), the satnav will recalaculate from where you are now, to the next plotted route point. The route is therefore very flexible. It also issues directions maybe from about 3/4 mile before reaching the location where an insruction is necessary. "At the junction turn left.", and it highlights the junction on the map - on the Zumos this is typically with a white arrow superimposed upon the route. The fewer route points that you have, the more flexible is the route. If you put a lot of route points in, the Zumo has fewer opportunities to alter the route, but that can become a problem if you are forced to deviate because of traffic or road closures - because you may end up missing one of your many route points - and the zumos job is to make sure that you visit them in the correct order.

To address the latter point, Garmin introduced two type of route point. Some which really have to be visited (Via Points) and othere which also have to be visited, but which will be ignored if you find your own way back to the plotted route (Shaping Points).

I like to have routes with as few route points as I can get away with. If I have to stray away from the route - I want it to navigate me ahead - not back to any points that I have missed.
So I also have a track of my route, and display the track and the route on the screen at the same time. One lies underneath the other - and Garmin changed which one was shown on top at some point between the 595 and the XT. So I don't know on the 396 which one will appear on top. Whatever when the route alters - you have a clear line showing you where you had originally intended to go. If you follow that and you have as few route points in your route as possible, then the satnav will soon calculate the route in the direction that you are heading.

I've come across many users who cannot get to grips with their route being altered like this - so another feature is to use the Zumo screen to convert the track into a route or into a trip. This follows the originally planned route and it will not alter - unless you deviate from it. Then the satnav will get you to the point on the plotted route that is closest to your current position. (And that can open up all sorts of weird behaviour if that closest point happens to be behind you !) Personally, I don't like this method - there are no points of reference (route points), and I like to have staging points - where my pillion can see how far we have to go before the next rest break, which is displayed in time and miles on the side of the Zumo screen.

I know of lots of people who have had serious issues with the Zumos since the 590 - but they have often turned out to be problems with the user. The commonest one is that a route has to have a start point and an end point. You have to pass through the start point - and the zumo needs to see that you have passed through it. That means that it cannot be placed where you jump on your bike - because you will pass the start before the stanav has got an accurate satellite fix and by the time it has, you are a few hundred metres up the road, and the satnav is asking you to go back. Do a U turn.

So fed up with this, without realising what the problem is, the user turns off recalculation. What happens then is that the Zumo cannot get you to go back. Although you are following the coloured line on the screen - you are not actually on the route, cos the route is trying to get you to go back to the start. The Zumo throws a sulk and stops talking to you. NO more instruction, no more white arrows or info about junctions ahead. You have completed the entire journey keeping to the plotted line, but the Zumo is apparently broken. It hasn't helped at all - but it is the rider's fault: the rider did not pass through the start point.

The answer is often painfully simple. Do not put the start point at the start of your ride. Put it a mile or two up the road. If you are in a city, then put it on the road that you want to be on when you escape the city. That way you can go and get fuel, avoid traffic jams, head out in the wrong direction to get to the ring road or circular - and the satnav will keep changing its instructions to get you to the start whatever you do. And when you get there it will continue navigating the rest of the route.

There are lots of simple techniques to make the Zumo do what you want.

As for the maps - the maps are massive files and sending by BT is not a very rapid method. I connect the Zumo by USB to my computer and use Garmin Express. In the old days they used to take about 5 hours - I think Garmin throttled the bandwidth. Now maps tkae about 30 minutes to download by USB. Modern Zumos use wifi, but then thing ahppen without my knowledge, so that facility is never turned on on my Zumos.
 

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By jimminy... I think I will stick with my Tomtom Rider 550. I build a route, using waypoints (I don't care what manufacturers like to call them, to my simple mind they are points along the way = waypoint :rolleyes:) either on MyRoute (then saved as a .itn file) or direct on the satnav and then ride. I don't need a start point, just a destination or first waypoint, then ride. If I have multiple waypoints and then decide not to use the next waypoint, the TomTom lets me 'skip next stop' then recalculates to the final destination using the remaining waypoints if they exist, that means that I never have to ride back to a waypoint if for some reason I can't reach it.
 
Can you get turn by turn voice from OSM on Garmin?
Can you get turn by turn voice from OSM on Garmin?
Yes! I found an old message with the instructions how to do it. It seems like a LOT because of how I described things but in fact it's very easy. This was true a couple years ago when I did it. Here's the note:

How to put OSM in Garmin
For Garmin models without free lifetime maps, you can get free OpenStreetMaps, and they are updated, very good and very detailed. Absolutely free. There are numerous methods but this is mine, free, easy, and no registrations necessary. For reference, the unit I'm updating is the 265W. On a whim, I got it for $11 delivered off Mercari because I wanted the Bluetooth connection to my phone. That works great but it won't connect to my cheapo Freedconn helmet Bluetooth. Oh well. Otherwise, it's a solid model and works well on the bike.


INSTRUCTIONS

1. On PC, open web page extract.bbbike.org.

2. Left column: Select Garmin OSM format

3. Name your map

4. Enter email address where the map download link will be sent. I use the mailinator.com service just to keep my personal email off of other servers.

5. Use the +/- slider on the map to find the area you want to map.

6. Use the controls to highlight the exact area.

7. When you have the area boxed in that you want, click the "Extract" button. This will create the OSM map and in 5-10 minutes you will receive an email with a download link. It works in the background so you won't see any spinning wheels or hourglass. Check the email in 10 minutes and you'll see it.

8. Download the map zip file to your PC and unzip to a normal folder

9. Plug the Garmin into the computer by USB cable. When the Garmin shows up in the File Explorer, create a folder on the SD card named "Garmin". Yes, this must be done on a memory card, not the internal storage.

10. Copy the gmapsupp file from the PC into the SD card "Garmin" folder. Done!

11. Now, when you unplug the unit from the PC, go to Tools - Settings - Map - Map Info... You should see the imported map as an option to select.

12. For these older Garmin units, you have to use the file name gmapsupp, you can't name them logically, like Texas, USA Southeast, etc. And you can't have more than one of the same file name in a folder. You have to create separate folders ON THE SD CARD for each OSM map and include that particular gmapsupp in that folder, for example a "Garmin Texas" folder. Now you'll have Garmin and Garmin Texas folders but the unit will only read the file in the "Garmin" folder. The trick is to rename the folders. So the current "Garmin" becomes "Garmin US" (or whatever the area is), and "Garmin Texas" is renamed "Garmin" and the Texas map will be available to use. If, for example, you want to load the Southeast US map later, change the "Garmin" folder back to "Garmin Texas" and change the "Garmin SE USA" to "Garmin".

13. The OSM maps are remarkably detailed, including POI, and turn by turn spoken street name directions also work. The only minor quibble is that some of the POI are outdated. The roads and directions have been spot on.


It's quite remarkable how great the free maps are...especially if you've got a model just sitting in a drawer for lack of a current map. Garmin wants $90 for purchased lifetime maps in the Garmin Store or $50 for the current map only; that's a lot for an old unit that lacks some of the newer features, with a smaller screen. I tried one of the OSM maps on my Nuvi 2597 and I actually preferred it to the Garmin and all the Garmin functions worked fine...3D map, text to talk, current street, next directions. Seamless. Just FWIW.
 
By jimminy... I think I will stick with my Tomtom Rider 550. I build a route, using waypoints (I don't care what manufacturers like to call them, to my simple mind they are points along the way = waypoint :rolleyes:) either on MyRoute (then saved as a .itn file) or direct on the satnav and then ride. I don't need a start point, just a destination or first waypoint, then ride. If I have multiple waypoints and then decide not to use the next waypoint, the TomTom lets me 'skip next stop' then recalculates to the final destination using the remaining waypoints if they exist, that means that I never have to ride back to a waypoint if for some reason I can't reach it.
I had a good look at the TomTom when I got the 590. I still have the Ride Magazine Comparison somewhere - but decided that I preferred the 590. And (apart from the battery issue which is completely irrelevant when riding), I still maintain that the 590 is the most reliable and predictable unit that Garmin have made - including the later 595, XT, XT2 and from the sounds of it - the new XT3. All of what you say is easily achievable on the 590 - and I can make my XT2 behave too. I just have to prepare the routes slightly differently.

The OSM maps are superb - really nice to ride with. The ETA is the stumbling block for me. Curious that in their list of acknowledgements, that Garmin gives credit to OSM maps - in the bottom of the Settings/Device/About. On the Garmin, you just have to remember to untick any other navigable maps that cover the same area - otherwise the routing goes haywire.
 
Yes! I found an old message with the instructions how to do it. It seems like a LOT because of how I described things but in fact it's very easy. This was true a couple years ago when I did it. Here's the note:

How to put OSM in Garmin
For Garmin models without free lifetime maps, you can get free OpenStreetMaps, and they are updated, very good and very detailed. Absolutely free. There are numerous methods but this is mine, free, easy, and no registrations necessary. For reference, the unit I'm updating is the 265W. On a whim, I got it for $11 delivered off Mercari because I wanted the Bluetooth connection to my phone. That works great but it won't connect to my cheapo Freedconn helmet Bluetooth. Oh well. Otherwise, it's a solid model and works well on the bike.


INSTRUCTIONS

1. On PC, open web page extract.bbbike.org.

2. Left column: Select Garmin OSM format

3. Name your map

4. Enter email address where the map download link will be sent. I use the mailinator.com service just to keep my personal email off of other servers.

5. Use the +/- slider on the map to find the area you want to map.

6. Use the controls to highlight the exact area.

7. When you have the area boxed in that you want, click the "Extract" button. This will create the OSM map and in 5-10 minutes you will receive an email with a download link. It works in the background so you won't see any spinning wheels or hourglass. Check the email in 10 minutes and you'll see it.

8. Download the map zip file to your PC and unzip to a normal folder

9. Plug the Garmin into the computer by USB cable. When the Garmin shows up in the File Explorer, create a folder on the SD card named "Garmin". Yes, this must be done on a memory card, not the internal storage.

10. Copy the gmapsupp file from the PC into the SD card "Garmin" folder. Done!

11. Now, when you unplug the unit from the PC, go to Tools - Settings - Map - Map Info... You should see the imported map as an option to select.

12. For these older Garmin units, you have to use the file name gmapsupp, you can't name them logically, like Texas, USA Southeast, etc. And you can't have more than one of the same file name in a folder. You have to create separate folders ON THE SD CARD for each OSM map and include that particular gmapsupp in that folder, for example a "Garmin Texas" folder. Now you'll have Garmin and Garmin Texas folders but the unit will only read the file in the "Garmin" folder. The trick is to rename the folders. So the current "Garmin" becomes "Garmin US" (or whatever the area is), and "Garmin Texas" is renamed "Garmin" and the Texas map will be available to use. If, for example, you want to load the Southeast US map later, change the "Garmin" folder back to "Garmin Texas" and change the "Garmin SE USA" to "Garmin".

13. The OSM maps are remarkably detailed, including POI, and turn by turn spoken street name directions also work. The only minor quibble is that some of the POI are outdated. The roads and directions have been spot on.


It's quite remarkable how great the free maps are...especially if you've got a model just sitting in a drawer for lack of a current map. Garmin wants $90 for purchased lifetime maps in the Garmin Store or $50 for the current map only; that's a lot for an old unit that lacks some of the newer features, with a smaller screen. I tried one of the OSM maps on my Nuvi 2597 and I actually preferred it to the Garmin and all the Garmin functions worked fine...3D map, text to talk, current street, next directions. Seamless. Just FWIW.

Thx. Good to know.

Could not get voice turn by turn on a Montana with OSM Map. Internet says it is not unusual with the Montana.

Looking further after reading your post, Internet also says that some OSM maps have voice but not all, some don't . Chances are your download method would lead to voice routed maps. The US OSM map on the Montana came preloaded on a SD card, not sure on the origin of the Map itself.

I ended up switching to a Garmin map because the routing was much faster than with whatever OSM was on the SD card.

I'll keep your procedure in mind for a future try.
 
Over here known as MS AutoRoute Express... unfortunately long discontinued... (last/final US release 2013...)
Yes, it offered [export as *.gpx] but that only gave you bare way-points without any shaping-points, profile, speed or date/time data, thus never computed right in Garmin MapSource...
But I liked the draft if provided to rebuild each single day/leg manually in MapSource...

What I liked in particular (and dearly miss):
- offline plotting tool & map...
- the detailed [start/end day], [flexibility/tank stops], [lunch brake start/end], [average speed/road type] profile...
- the [search POI/category] in XX km aside the route] feature... (it even had the individual internet links avail upon right-click; imagine including booking.com or such into that...)

This was brilliant; intend to go on a round trip across Europe, Scotland, France and back, but have yet not an idea/concept how to/it will fit into your two weeks vacation time?
Easy, plot the whole draft of the intended trip in AutoRoute Express and it will give you a pretty precise idea about how many days & nights it'll take... (including fuel costs if you had entered the numbers)

Have your channel ferry (or car train) tickets/time-tables? Simply add the port/station way-points with [arrive by date/time] and the program will tell you when have to leave home...

Wanna visit some Abby's and Castles along the way? Let AutoRoute display them, right-click on a desired place [add stop to route, time HH:MM]...

Pretty much what I'd expected from Garmin upon their full-bodied advertisement about their all new/better/oh so improved BaseCamp plotting software... pffffff... what a disappointment that was... :cautious:
I still have Autoroute up and working on Win 11 Pro. ;)
 
And here's how it works with a bicycle computer GPS using RideWithGPS:

1) go to RideWithGPS on the PC.
2) click on the roads you want to follow (no tracks, waypoints, etc., just click on roads)
3) save and select send to device (phone or bike computer)
4) open RideWithGPS app on phone or bike computer and select saved route.
5) click start/go for turn by turn directions

If you get off route, it directs back to the route.

It really couldn't be much simpler and this is what I was hoping the car/motorcycle Garmin would do. Unfortunately it doesn't unless you create "tracks" with basecamp for example. I tried doing just that and it was excruciatingly tedious since it required switching back and for between tracks and pan. I don't just want to go somewhere, which it is probably great for, I want to follow specific roads of which there may be many dozens.

Of course, Garmin can't be everything to everybody. I'm just a little spoiled by Garmin's implementation for bicycles. It works great for bicycles, but I would need a larger screen for the motorcycle. If they made one, I would be a happy clam.
 
By jimminy... I think I will stick with my Tomtom Rider 550. I build a route, using waypoints (I don't care what manufacturers like to call them, to my simple mind they are points along the way = waypoint :rolleyes:) either on MyRoute (then saved as a .itn file) or direct on the satnav and then ride.
I inherited a TTR 550...

- a bit of a big, heavy brick... not only for mounting it, but (in my case) stuffing it into your pocket (or glove) upon check-in, stopping for food...
- MyRoute is an(other) online tool, just as Plan.TomTom.com, (TT has discontinued supporting their genuine My.Drive app)...
- the TTR 550 requires WLAN/inet access (i.e. receiving *.itn files from a phone)... nice for updating it at your home-base, but abroad?
- traffic avoidance would be nice, but requires having your phone connected (My.Drive app), running down its battery...
- TomTom does not provide nor support any offline planing tool (laptop/netbook)... (ever read the (anti)privacy agreements of those online planners... :cautious: )

What unnerves me while running down the road with that TTR 550, are the constant Dings and Chimes of alleged speed limits...
The thing acts out like the friend-foe indicators in a Grumman A-6... at every rabbit hole or chicken coop... stressing me out... :redface:

I also haven't found a method how to run a TomTom with other maps, like OSM...
So whenever TomTom decides to end support (or just cut your device's account access) you end up with an expensive doorstop...
ze GF had a small TT Rider Urban... out of support, means to bin it as there is no current map material...
(sure... you're not supposed to simply update maps, you're supposed to buy a new kit... right... :cautious: )
 
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GPX is a file extension and what constitutes a GPX file is ...like the Pirate's Code...a suggestion. ;) :D
Hence you're ending up in a 'vendor-lock'...
each MFG cooks up his own, quite specific standards, making it hard to share between brands and platforms...
 
Just for grins, I plotted my route to Kamiah, ID before I left using Kurviger. They've added a new feature. They've always allowed you to save your route in a GPX file (and some others). But now they allow you to save it as a GPX file...with the customizations needed for the specific model of GPS intended. And it worked perfectly!

Chris
 
Just for grins, I plotted my route to Kamiah, ID before I left using Kurviger. They've added a new feature. They've always allowed you to save your route in a GPX file (and some others). But now they allow you to save it as a GPX file...with the customizations needed for the specific model of GPS intended. And it worked perfectly!
Good for you...

i) its another online(!) planer...
ii) paywall for essential functions, like [save as]...
iii) attempting to upload a Garmin *.gpx file containing 4 individual routes, caused it to build one giant route out of it... 😒
so I'd have to store each single(!) route as individual *.gpx file, multiplying my planning efforts enormously...
iv) the imported route differs largely (it displayed being 60% off, but at least it recognizes), requiring quite some editing...
v) exported it specifically for the TomTom Rider 550 I've around her, which gave me a 0MB *.itn file... pfffff... :rolleyes:
vi) the native plan.tomtom.com is also an online thing...

more effective to throw a *.gpx at the internal memory of the Rider 550... which routing of course differs then...
 
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