Hi.
I want to show you my version of the Red Wire Bypass.
My english is not 100%, but i will give it a try....
I started to do the red wire bypass. But when i study the electric scheme for my ST1100A '93 i figured out i had to do a little more then the red wire bypass threads are saying.
People do the bypass for reducing the heat / current through the connector to the starter relay.
Original there is one large current passing first in , and then out of the connector. (Main current). The current came from the regulator/rectifier, goes into the connector and then out again from the connector to all the supplies to the electrical system.
One major fault in the OEM- setup. (My opinion), is that this large current is NOT passing through the 30A main fuse.
When the bike is charging, the current flow from the regulator and out to the supplies to the electrical system. -Not passing the main fuse.
The only very little current flowing through the 30A main fuse, is for charging the battery and for the ABS-fuses.
When you do the ?normal? Red Wire Bypass, the main current from the regulator still flow through the connector. Passing the 30A main fuse on the connector, and then to the battery. -Then through the fused Red Wire Bypass and out to the supplies.
You still have the main current flowing through the connector to the starter relay.
My opinion / solution is to do a Wire Bypass also for the Red/White wire from the regulator.
The current through the connector is then removed completely.
I have now Bypassed the Red wire with a seperate fuse.
I have bypassed the Red/White wire with a seperate fuse.
I have also removed the connector for the Red wire from the battery, feeding the fuses for pump motors and the solenoids for the ABS. (Removed connector, and connected direct to battery).
Kairo
I want to show you my version of the Red Wire Bypass.
My english is not 100%, but i will give it a try....
I started to do the red wire bypass. But when i study the electric scheme for my ST1100A '93 i figured out i had to do a little more then the red wire bypass threads are saying.
People do the bypass for reducing the heat / current through the connector to the starter relay.
Original there is one large current passing first in , and then out of the connector. (Main current). The current came from the regulator/rectifier, goes into the connector and then out again from the connector to all the supplies to the electrical system.
One major fault in the OEM- setup. (My opinion), is that this large current is NOT passing through the 30A main fuse.
When the bike is charging, the current flow from the regulator and out to the supplies to the electrical system. -Not passing the main fuse.
The only very little current flowing through the 30A main fuse, is for charging the battery and for the ABS-fuses.
When you do the ?normal? Red Wire Bypass, the main current from the regulator still flow through the connector. Passing the 30A main fuse on the connector, and then to the battery. -Then through the fused Red Wire Bypass and out to the supplies.
You still have the main current flowing through the connector to the starter relay.
My opinion / solution is to do a Wire Bypass also for the Red/White wire from the regulator.
The current through the connector is then removed completely.
I have now Bypassed the Red wire with a seperate fuse.
I have bypassed the Red/White wire with a seperate fuse.
I have also removed the connector for the Red wire from the battery, feeding the fuses for pump motors and the solenoids for the ABS. (Removed connector, and connected direct to battery).
Kairo