I'm just trying to envision all this in my mind as I'm sure a few others may be too.
So this lewis pin sounds like it is a pin that is inserted in an alignment hole found in both of the split gears while the alternator drive is installed?
Yup?
Nope?
Reinserting The Alternator Drive Gears Into The Engine
- Thread starter Uncle Phil
- Start date
So this lewis pin sounds like it is a pin that is inserted in an alignment hole found in both of the split gears while the alternator drive is installed?
Yup?
Nope?
ST1100Y
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Like the cam-shafts the alternator drive gear features offset, spring-loaded gears to reduce lash and noise...
While the cam drives are accessible to be aligned to mesh properly with the reduction gear upon installation, is that not feasible inside the engine case...
hence two work-ways possible:
i)
- align the drives while outside the case and drive a 6mm(?) cotter pin through the holes of the gears to lock them in place
- drain oil
- thread a cloth hanger wire through the engine case and out the drain hole
- attach a rigid braided wire (i.e. clutch cable) to the pin and thread the other end through the case utilizing mentioned cloth hanger wire
- insert alternator drive
- once in place yank on the braided wire and hope/celebrate a Holy Mass that the pin comes out/fit through the drain hole without any issues
ii)
- place drive into case
- place a tool/handle into the (hollow) shaft to twist it clockwise for the aprox 2mm required to have it mesh the gears
- proceed with the installation
yours truly prefers the 2nd...
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You forgot third option:
Drop the oil pan...
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
pfffff...
I'd rather get a good running start and hurl myself at the wall...
Then at least I know the origin of all the headache...
never done this procedure before, but I'm curious about something I've seen in the service manual regarding removal of the alternator.
It says after removing the mounting screws to rotate the alternator base clockwise and put an 8mm bolt into the top-left hole (the top-left alternator mounting hole, but now the alternator base is no longer aligned with that hole so you can put a screw in there next to the alternator base).
Is that doing the same thing as what you've described above? The rotation would have to be more than 2mm (at least 8-10mm to have the base clear the mounting hole) so I'm not sure if its the same thing or not.
Not to confuse the issue, but the gear that drives the clutch basket (on the 1300) is also one of these "offset, spring loaded gears". There is a screwdriver slot that one uses to compress the spring and align the gears when assembling this gear/clutch basket. If one does not compress the spring, you will have an unholy rattling clutch. You can ask how I know. The dealer's mechanic made that mistake on my bike....at my expense.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Nope - Under normal circumstances the drive stays in the engine and that bolt is to keep it from coming out and hold it in position.
In my case, because of the age and mileage, the 'wrestling match' to separate the alternator from the drive pulled the drive out.
My last one I was able to pry the alternator out of the drive with a screwdriver and keep the drive in the engine.
Which really simplifies things!
ST1100Y
Site Supporter
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
FWIW, it appears that a 12MM hex tool will fit into the alternator drive shaft (14mm and 13mm will not).
We'll see how the rest of the story goes once I get my new o-rings in hand.
We'll see how the rest of the story goes once I get my new o-rings in hand.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
FWIW, I am also working on a fix for the sidestand wobble.
What causes it is the bolt shank gets wear and the 'tab' on the frame turns into an oval.
We'll see how this 'fix' sorts out also.
What causes it is the bolt shank gets wear and the 'tab' on the frame turns into an oval.
We'll see how this 'fix' sorts out also.
When I had my 1991 ST1100 I also had a small metal lathe. I drilled out the oblong hole for the bolt and made a steel bushing. I also cleaned up the shoulder on the bolt, there was wear there as well. When I made the bushing I made a fairly snug fit on the shoulder of the bolt. Pressed the bushing in the frame and reattached the side stand.Put a little grease on the bolt. There is enough leverage with the length of the side stand the snug fit was not an issue. I kept the bike another 40k miles and all was still good. There was little lateral movement in the side stand after the fix.FWIW, I am also working on a fix for the sidestand wobble.
What causes it is the bolt shank gets wear and the 'tab' on the frame turns into an oval.
We'll see how this 'fix' sorts out also.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
I'm taking the same course except sourcing a bushing that should work after enlarging the hole on frame.
If it works, the cost is less than $20 for the bushing and proper drill bit from Amazon.
We'll see how it goes!
ST Gui
240Robert
Will you secure the bushing into the frame or just use the bolt and nut to hold it all together. I guess it's really not necessary to make a friction fit or tack weld the bushing to the frame. It's not like it would be a part frequently removed.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
The bolt through the sidestand should hold everything in place between the outside and inside of the sidestand.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Okay, I finally met with success - thanks to Martin and his good counsel and Alberto's pictures. A bit 'fiddly' but the trick for me was getting 3 8x32mm bolts and stabilizing the drive one I got the 'first' gear inserted. What was happening was the drive was twisting out of the engine gear when I put pressure on the drive 'drive shaft'. So what you need -
12mm Allen wrench
3 8X32 fully threaded bolts
Small brass hammer
Bike in gear
A ton of patience.
Insert the drive into the engine as far as it will go.
What's sticking out - the o-ring will be equidistant between the flange and the engine - maybe a 1/4 inch showing in total.
Install the 3 bolts into the mounting holes and tighten until snug (not tight).
Insert the 12mm Allen wrench into the shaft opening where the alternator goes in.
I put an extension on the end of the wrench so I would have plenty of leverage.
Slowly turn the Allen wrench clockwise by small increments while lightly tapping the bend of the wrench to push the drive in.
You are not driving in with force, just assisting its progress.
It is sort of a 'feel' thing (about 2mm of a turn) but it will snap into place.
12mm Allen wrench
3 8X32 fully threaded bolts
Small brass hammer
Bike in gear
A ton of patience.
Insert the drive into the engine as far as it will go.
What's sticking out - the o-ring will be equidistant between the flange and the engine - maybe a 1/4 inch showing in total.
Install the 3 bolts into the mounting holes and tighten until snug (not tight).
Insert the 12mm Allen wrench into the shaft opening where the alternator goes in.
I put an extension on the end of the wrench so I would have plenty of leverage.
Slowly turn the Allen wrench clockwise by small increments while lightly tapping the bend of the wrench to push the drive in.
You are not driving in with force, just assisting its progress.
It is sort of a 'feel' thing (about 2mm of a turn) but it will snap into place.
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ST1100Y
Site Supporter
Told you...
And now have a cold
And now have a cold
Glad that method worked out as expected!
By the way, do you have the swingarm removed? When I tried installing the drive gear that way, I had to insert driveshaft and lock it with screwdriver because every time I turned the drive gear with an Allen key, the crankshaft started rotating.
By the way, do you have the swingarm removed? When I tried installing the drive gear that way, I had to insert driveshaft and lock it with screwdriver because every time I turned the drive gear with an Allen key, the crankshaft started rotating.
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Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Yes the swingarm is out. I did make sure the bike was in first gear so that seemed to take care of it.