Remove a rounded out allen head screw

[ski_rush]

I ordered a new Heli-Bars handle bar risers. I was excited to install them...and then I ran into an issue and had to stop. One of the Allen head screws that mount the handlebars to the riser is rounded out. It looks like someone has been here before and rounded out the Allen head screw. It can't be removed normally. What's the best way to remove this? I also have to order a new screw.

 

[TerryS]

I feel your pain.

Start with dousing the area in penetrating oil and leave that for a day. Then get a Torx bit that is a tight fit and needs to be hammered in. That should give enough grip to move the old bolt out. If that doesn't work you will need to drill the head off the bolt and use vice-grips on the remainder (after the bars are out of the way).

 

[PhotoDoctor]

Harbor freight sells a left handed drill bit set - should you have to drill - the bit will be rotating in the direction to pull the screw out if you are super lucky. And if you don't get lucky it will be as TerryS said - Vice grips.

Good luck - it's really not too bad of a task.

 

[CruSTy]

You might be able to hammer a torx bit into it and get it to turn. If you drill it use a 9 mm drill to pop the head Off the bolt. Once the head is off there will not be any tension on the bolt and after you lift the riser off of it you can remove it with your fingers. Stainless 8mm socket head bolts are readily available at local hardware stores. If you are uneasy doing this ride it down to my shop in Kansas and I’ll help you out.

Chuck

 

[JohnK]

Dewalt sells a stripped head remover for the impact - used it a couple times. One side drills out the head to a specific diameter the other works to grip that hole with a revers grab - they come indifferent diameters

 

[Sunday Rider]

I used this video to pull out a rounded Allen screw from a fork.

 

[wingdoc5]

If you go vice grip option...use these

 

[Baird44]

Old skool easy outs from Home Depot..... and yes penetrating oil like PB Blaster.....

 

[Al Gully]

If you own an impact gun and metric Allen head hex sockets, try this shim method.
I have a spare set of feeler gauge’s that I have used tin snips to cut them up for various uses.

Here’s the write up.

A trick to removing stripped Allen-key bolts can be a game of 0.003 inches - Hagerty Media

A little piece of shim stock went a long way and solved Rob Siegel’s bolt problem.

www.hagerty.com

 

[Al Gully]

I’ve seen welding a nut on top of the stripped bolt head has worked to it you have access to a welding machine.

 

[TotaledTL]

If that 2nd key is also for your bike, may I suggest you put it elsewhere if those are your only keys to it.

 

[TotaledTL]

If you own an impact gun and metric Allen head hex sockets, try this shim method.
I have a spare set of feeler gauge’s that I have used tin snips to cut them up for various uses.

Here’s the write up.

A trick to removing stripped Allen-key bolts can be a game of 0.003 inches - Hagerty Media

A little piece of shim stock went a long way and solved Rob Siegel’s bolt problem.

www.hagerty.com

That is a great idea. Thank you for posting this. Now if only I can remember it if/when the need arises....

 

[W0QNX]

I've used one of the many allen wrenches I seem to accumulate that is just bigger and grind it down to fit perfectly while being driven into the hex hole. You can cut the wrench off and install the stub in a socket. You can hit the stub or the extension a few times before you try to loosen it and use a ratchet and push down to loosen the "socket head cap screw" you have there.

Works for me and cheap.

 

[oude geit]

Hand impact and torx bit

 

[Larry Fine]

Hand impact and torx bit

 

[Jethro]

If it is vessel brand those are J.I.S. Philips bits

 

[motornut]

With socket head bolts that are threaded into aluminum or brass take a punch that fits into the inside of the socket and tap it sharply with a hammer, just not hard enough to break anything. Or skip that step and hope for the best after soaking it. Those bolts are stainless and are god awful to drill. But there is a tool that might help

 

[motornut]

I really like to smack them with a punch and hammer, but since I am a long way away I don't know how to say hit it without breaking anything. So it is kind of scary for me to say it The shock helps break the bond between the bolt and threads from light corrosion.
It goes along with how tight to put in a bolt. I was told tighten it just a bit before it breaks. I asked what does it mean when a bolt gets tight then gets loose again.
Which is why torque specs came up in shop manuals.

 

[ST Gui]

If it is vessel brand those are J.I.S. Philips bits

If that's a Vessel Impact driver those are JIS not Philips bits. It's probably not likely a pic with that driver and Torx bits will be found. I think the Vessel also uses slightly different size bits than the more common 1/4" drive bits.

 

[SMSW]

I've found Harbor Frt. 'edged tools' to be iffy - sometimes the heat treating is good, sometimes not. Bottom line, I will not waste my money on HF drills, chisels, etc. If you want to use a reverse twist drill bit, get a good brand.. Ez-outs in the smaller sizes (what you will need for that bolt) are fragile and break more often than they work. Larger sizes are more robust, but won't help you. Whatever method you use, try the least destructive first, so that you can try something else.

IIRC, the socket head is recessed in the handlebar, so slotting it for a screw driver will be v. difficult w/o cutting into the handlebar itself (unless you have a dental drill rig). I'd try the torx bit or a ground down allen wrench first, then progress to drilling the head off, removing the handlebars over the stub and then either pliers or vise grips on the stub.