Replacement horn on ST1100-Y (UK Spec)

[panrider]

Hi everyone,
I would like to replace the standard horn on my ST1100-Y, with a Denali Sound Bomb. Have tried fitting one, but it is too thick and affects the steering :-( .

Anyone had success in this area with simple replacements?

Thank you in advance.

 

[Uncle Phil]

If it is like the Stebel (IIRC) you can separate the compressor from the trumpet and put the pieces in different places.
It is a bit tedious and takes some careful 'plumbing'.
Also, you will probably want to use a relay to fire the horn instead of the stock horn wiring.
That way you can run a proper fused horn wire from the battery.
I went with Fiamm Freeway Blasters after I had several Stebels fail when water got in them.

 

[ST Gui]

Also, you will probably want to use a relay to fire the horn instead of the stock horn wiring.
That way you can run a proper fused horn wire from the battery.
I went with Fiamm Freeway Blasters

+1

I've put a single ("low") FIAMM horn on several of my bikes without a relay mainly because I was/am lazy. But if I were to use 2 a relay would be absolutely necessary. I'd want to eliminate increased wear on the horn button but even more importantly — I'd want the Blasters to BLAST!

I know several member here have installed 2 on 1300s. I thought that was also true of the 1100 but don't recall.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Yes. I installed both the high and low tone Fiamms - sounds like an old Buick which makes people stop and look!
IIRC, the decibel ratings of the Stebel/Denali and dual Fiamms is pretty close.
I tested both when I had them installed and the butt dynamo said they were about the same.
Mr. Google says the Denali draws 20 amps - that would probably fry the original wiring on the ST1100 since it usually draws about 1 amp on a 10 amp circuit.

 

[DeanR]

I went with Fiamm Freeway Blasters after I had several Stebels fail when water got in them.

I had installed the Fiamm horns a few years ago. Without much difficulty. Used the original mount location for one, and somehow found a way to fit the other one. Up on the cowl stay as I recall. Sounded great.
Then for some reason I needed to remove them. Since then, at times when I've had some plastic off, tried to get them back on. No luck, with either one with whatever I tried. I even have pictures that you and others have posted. Could not get it worked out. All the wiring is there and just needs to be plugged into those horns.
Will try again, at some point. Wish I had taken pictures.

 

[Uncle Phil]

I mounted one in place of the stocker and then fabbed a bracket on the other side similar to the position of the stocker.
I run both of mine through my Bluesea Fuseblock and let the stock switch fire a relay that triggers the horns.
You can run the ground wire right to the mounting bolt for both horns so you only have to deal with the 'hot' wire - common hot to the output of the relay.

 

[ST1100Y]

Convenient location on the cowl stay...
Relay coil parallel to OEM horn, direct (fused) power feed from the battery...

 

[DeanR]

Martin, what did you use to make the 'mounting bracket strips'?

 

[Alberto]

Denali Sound Bomb.

I installed a SoundBomb Mini electric horn in the OEM spot, and another one on the opposite side. I had to trim some plastic and make a mirrored bracket for it. We have a lot of stray dogs in the suburbs, and I don’t want to get bitten. I also had to run separate wiring with a relay because the amperage of this contraption is too high for the standard wiring. But man, that sounds sick ))

Convenient location on the cowl stay...

Just in case. This will only work on the non-ABS version

 

[SMSW]

I installed a SoundBomb Mini electric horn in the OEM spot, and another one on the opposite side. I had to trim some plastic and make a mirrored bracket for it. We have a lot of stray dogs in the suburbs, and I don’t want to get bitten. I also had to run separate wiring with a relay because the amperage of this contraption is too high for the standard wiring. But man, that sounds sick ))


Just in case. This will only work on the non-ABS version

A bit late with this suggestion, but I used the original horn wires (after I removed the OEM horn) to trigger the relay, which was attached to the OEM horn bracket. I ran a new 20 amp circuit (#12 wire from my auxiliary fusebox) to the relay and then to the horn. The relay then switched this new circuit to sound the horns.

 

[Alberto]

A bit late with this suggestion

I did exactly the same. No need to remove the old wiring, of course. I’m just thinking about installing one more relay for the right horn, with a 0.5-second delay, to make a short “beep” less aggressive.

 

[SMSW]

I did exactly the same. No need to remove the old wiring, of course. I’m just thinking about installing one more relay for the right horn, with a 0.5-second delay, to make a short “beep” less aggressive.

Actually, the aim of putting aftermarket horns on the bike should be to lift the car ahead of you 3' off the ground when you hit the horn button. Used train horns are great for this application, but tend to require either a source of steam or a large (pull behind on a trailer) compressor. Of course this leads you to replace the ST with a larger bike.....

 

[J.Murphy]

I have fitted a pair of PIAA 'slim' horns to my ST1300. They are small and do not need any relay or change to the wiring other than a splitter from the original horn lead to feed to the two new ones. They are just as loud as the Denali I fitted to my previous bike. They are available in UK from Demon Tweeks, Wrexham

 

[Alberto]

lift the car ahead of you 3' off

There is one downside to this setup: when you hit the horn button, you may need to compensate for the sudden air braking force...

 

[SMSW]

There is one downside to this setup: when you hit the horn button, you may need to compensate for the sudden air braking force...

There is ultimately a solution to every problem. Add an additional brake light - a Whelen M7. This light is so bright that it gives a photon boost to your velocity. You could easily rig up another relay to trigger the light whenever the horn is sounded. That would balance out the deacceleration due to the sonic blast. Just ask @tonythecarguy for verification.

 

[panrider]

I installed a SoundBomb Mini electric horn in the OEM spot, and another one on the opposite side. I had to trim some plastic and make a mirrored bracket for it. We have a lot of stray dogs in the suburbs, and I don’t want to get bitten. I also had to run separate wiring with a relay because the amperage of this contraption is too high for the standard wiring. But man, that sounds sick ))


Just in case. This will only work on the non-ABS version

Do you have any images of the amount of plastic you removed? How did you remove the plastic? Hacksaw blade or some other useful tool?

 

[panrider]

I have fitted a pair of PIAA 'slim' horns to my ST1300. They are small and do not need any relay or change to the wiring other than a splitter from the original horn lead to feed to the two new ones. They are just as loud as the Denali I fitted to my previous bike. They are available in UK from Demon Tweeks, Wrexham

Thank you - was it this set? https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/piaa-slim-profile-two-tone-sports-horns-400-500hz-piaho12/

 

[Alberto]

of the amount of plastic you removed?

I’ll take some pictures later, once I get to the bike. If I remember right, there’s no need to trim any plastic when installing the SoundBomb Mini in the OEM spot. It’s tight, but it fits.

 

[panrider]

I’ll take some pictures later, once I get to the bike. If I remember right, there’s no need to trim any plastic when installing the SoundBomb Mini in the OEM spot. It’s tight, but it fits.

Thank you. These pictures may help to see what I'm working with.

 

[Alberto]

Hm, I actually, did trim plastic little bit, totally forgot about it