Replacing original ST1100 handlebar questions and issues

JTD1100

Joined
Mar 8, 2013
Messages
10
Location
Wilbur, WA USA
Bike
1995 ST1100A
Hi folks, my name is Jim and I pilot a big red 1995 ST1100.
I have road raced in my past and keep my bikes on the sportin' side with modifications for improved suspension control and rider comfort when ever possible. I just mounted new tires and I an installing Progressive springs, new brake pads all around. I have installed a really cool "bikini" wind screen that is about 4" shorter than the stock wind screen. It's black and really sets a sporty look for the ST. I purchased a Corbin saddle off eBay and that was a big change for the ergonomics of the cockpit. Now I would like to change the stock handlebar set. The bar gives me a sore muscle around the collar bone and the bar provides insufficient leverage when charging into a curve with a 500+lb machine that I am holding onto. I have a handlebar set that I bought for my Yamaha XS650 and I think it will be good first attempt to change the ergonomics for me. The bar might not have the right dimensions so I want to be able to change again until I have the correct set.

First issue are the bar end weights. The end of the bar looks like they installed a "nutsert" so they could thread the bar weights. Is this correct, and would I just install a similar piece of hardware in the new bars ?
Second issue are the grips. No need to install heated grips right now. I read in another thread that the BMW sport grips are a good replacement.
I might have to cut 1 1/2" off each end to get all the switch gear to fit correctly. Been there, done that.

Anybody have any cautionary notes to pass along, I sincerely appreciate your thoughts.
 
Re: Replacing original handlebar questions and issues

I forgot to upload picts of my Red Head. Let's give it a try.

Well, not sure where the snafu is. It's late so I will attempt again soon....
 
Re: Replacing original handlebar questions and issues

have you considered trying "risers"??

might be a bit easier and faster than bar replacement.


thank you,
-elliot
 
What specifically do you want to accomplish with a bar change? Lower them to give you a more sporting riding position? Widen them for more leverage?

Maybe I'm misreading the sporting side/bikini screen/sporty look thing. Raising the bars would take some weight off you your shoulders (and wrists) and might relieve the pain you're feeling but that doesn't quite go with the sporty look. Not that there's anything wrong with that.
 
JTD1100 said:
The end of the bar looks like they installed a "nutsert" so they could thread the bar weights.
Click to expand...
On a '95 and older type handlebar the "inserts" are welded in...
On a post '96 type the "inserts" consist of a number of parts:
http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pie...T1100Y-2000-F__0700-PAN+EUROPEAN+ST+1100.html
(loc # 8, 9, 10 & 34)

Police spec parts would provide raisers and a wider handlebar:
http://www.bike-parts-honda.com/pie...1100PY-2000-F__0700-PAN+EUROPEAN+ST+1100.html
(loc # 6, 7 & 15)

And how did you manage to loose ~200lbs on the ST? ;-)
 
I can not seam to be able to remove the throttle assembly from the handle bar nor can I remove the handgrip from the clutch side of the bars to remove the choke lever. I am I missing something ?Neverwas this complicated to change handle bars on my other bikes !
 
The throttle tube is guided inside the RHS switch pod; remove the two Philips head bolts at the bottom and crack the case open.
To relieve the throttle cables, remove their ends at the belly-crank on the carbs (LHS).

The (rubber) grips are glued on, pry the end open and squeeze the nozzle of your air-gun underneath, give it a blow of air and work around till the rubber-grip is loose.
Removing the choke cable at the cabs/lever (again LHS) gives more clearance to get the LHS switch-pod off.

There is a "pin" on each lower half of the switch-pods that slips into an according bore at the underside of the OEM handlebar, preventing the switches from rotating on the tube.
You might need to "recreate" that bore (at a proper position) on your after-market bar-tube.
 
One other thing that hasn't been mentioned that you may or may not be aware of. The stock bar holders attach to the upper triple clamp with a rubber dampener, so there's some flex in the system from the rubber part. Whatever new bars you mount, you'll still have the flex. I never liked the feel of that, and given your sport-bike comments I suspect you may not either. On my bike I pulled out the dampeners, but that left a bit of a gap in the way the lower bar clamp mounted on the top triple clamp. I inserted a thin slice of 1" PVC pipe (underneath the triple clamp I think, it was 18 years ago) to take up the extra space so the fasteners would tighten properly.

Another suggestion on removing the grips, pull it back a little and drizzle some gasoline in the gap, that will penetrate and lubricate so you can twist it off.
 
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